what removes threadlocker?

harkamus

harkamus

Joined
Apr 23, 2007
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Does anyone know what removes threadlocker? I need to remove the blue kind (not the permanent kind), but it's still pretty hard. I have them on my ZT 0350 that has custom scales. I put thread locker on the screws because they tuurn freely since nothing holds the bolts/nuts in place. Sadly, the torsion bar removed itself inside, so I need to open her up. It worked fine for the almost 5 months I've had the custom scales. The other day I flipped it open and I heard a pop, like the torsion bar removed itself and hit the inside of the scale. I'm not sure if there's damange, but I don't hear any rattling inside. At any rate, I need to remove the screws and take the scales off to set the torsion bar back in place. To do that, I need to remove the thread locker, which is where you guys can hopefully chime in.

I've read wd40 works, but I can't fathom that working since it's basically just glorified grease. Anyone know of something they've used personally and can vouch for?
 
A simple trick is to heat the screw with the tip of a soldering iron, this should loosen blue and red loctite products.
 
CWL said:
A simple trick is to heat the screw with the tip of a soldering iron, this should loosen blue and red loctite products.
Click to expand...

Mmm. I will consider that, but I'm afraid I may melt the g10 or myself for that matter. :p

Any other tips people?
 
harkamus said:
Mmm. I will consider that, but I'm afraid I may melt the g10 or myself for that matter. :p

Any other tips people?
Click to expand...

To expand on that simple trick, you should allow the soldering iron to reach it's full operating temperature and THEN apply it to the screw & quickly remove the iron.

The heat will quickly be transferred to the metal screw & threadlock & not the surrounding areas. Repeat a few times if necessary but do not just leave the iron resting on the screw for prolonged periods.

Outside of that you may try a drop of acetone (i.e.- nail polish remover) on the threads & let it sit. I know this works on Cyanoacrylate (aka crazy glue) but I haven't tested it on blue loctite.

Hope that helps,
Scooby
 
It really shouldn't take much force to undo blue locker, unless it was permanent blue, not all companies use the same color coding. It has to say removable.

Anyways, G10 won't mind the heat at all, cook that screw out of there. Let it sit for 10 minutes if that's what it takes. Had the Strider boys take my SnG apart and an SMF, they just put the soldering iron on the bolt and let it heat up for 10+ minutes.
 
harkamus said:
Mmm. I will consider that, but I'm afraid I may melt the g10 or myself for that matter. :p

Any other tips people?
Click to expand...

g10 doesnt melt :)

its heat resistance is actually quite amazing! dont worry about it.

blue thread locker is typically really easy... i believe you shouldnt need to heat it up at all.
 
You can also dip the knife handle into boiling water. Boiling water is 212 deg F so it wont hurt anything and should be enough heat to release the thread locker.

But the soldering iron should work without any problem unless you don't have one. It is what is commonly used for this task.
 
I use blue loctite on knife clip screws and on certain retaining nuts on my pistols.

The easiest way is to heat up the area with a blow dryer (set on high / hot) and warm it up for a bit and they come out very smoothly.

Get a solid grip on them when they're still warm and then press into the screws and turn them out with strong, slow pressure.

Never had the slightest problem. You'll feel them break free. Learned that on GlockTalk forum.
 
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I inadvertently used red thread lock on the screws on my new R-Just aluminum phone case not realising its strength. 2 weeks later smashed my glass screen protector and needed to get the thing off to replace it. Screws were stuck fast and the small micro size allen key bolt would have just rounded under any excessive pressure. The soldering iron comment above was bang on. 130 watt iron on full for 30 seconds or so released the locktite enough for me to loosen the screws and do the change. I didnt even realize until I investigated but blue thread lock for things that need to be disassembled does exist but is still pretty strong apparently. Another suggestion I saw on another forum was to use the smallest amount of womens nail gloss to lock the threads. Hope this comment helps someone else in the same predicament ;)
 
Heat will soften Loc tite. Acetone will dissolve it (slowly). Nail polish works reasonably well and you can remove it with acetone. Any solvent weaker than acetone may work but will require more time to work. I am a retired gunsmith and I always kept a small bottle of acetone mixed 50/50 with Dexron for any Loc tited screws I ran into. Any place that sells painting supplies should carry acetone. Have good ventilation. Open a bottle of acetone in a closed room and they'll find you a couple of days later....... WD 40 is worthless for anything except drying out a wet distributor (that's all it was was invented for). It is a water displacer and not a lube of a solvent. Most shops I have worked in will not allow WD 40 in the shop for any use (except a wet distributor). It's that bad.
 
If memory serves you want 400 degrees Fahrenheit to break down Loctite red thread locker. A usefull product for retaining threaded fasteners is Vibra-Tight. You apply it to the screw, let it dry, then use the screw normally. It will stay in place and just give the screw some resistance to moving. You can vary the amount used to vary how much resistance you want. Kind of in between thread lock and nothing at all.
 
Loctite has a purple that is lighter hold than blue. Give that a try.
 
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