What scales are on my '83 110?

P

PhillipM

Joined
Jul 25, 2013
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I saved my pennies and bought my first Buck 110 in 1983 from an Ace Hardware store for $35. The scales are jet black wood, I've searched around as best I can and can't determine what they are.

I wore the knife EDC till the blade wore where the point it's sticking up a bit so I retired it and bought a couple new ones. After reading about different steels and even the snake river damascus, this has me thinking about having a new blade installed because I miss carrying my black 110. Is there a rundown somewhere on the pros and cons of the different steel replacement blades?

Any sheath recommendations other than Buck? My current one is just about done.

One other question, when did Buck start rounding the corners and edges of the scales and bolsters?

Thanks in advance.
 
should be macassar ebony, started radiusing, I believe toward the end of 3 dot cir 1981(may be wrong there) and all 4-dots 81-85.
 
Welcome to the Bladeforums Phillip , I would really consider sending it Back to Buck for the spa treatment and if it really needed a new blade the will do it for you , or maybe the tang could be ground down a little to bring the tip down into the knife when it's closed . As for a new sheath the new black sheaths with the black and white snap are very soft or find a vintage one online . And always remember we like pictures so if you can show us a picture of your knife like a before and after pic would be great . Enjoy your time here .
 
Thanks for the welcome. I guess it sat on a shelf for a few years, according to the sticky, it was made between 74-80 since it has two dots. Is macassar ebony black?

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Phil, Welcome to the Buck Forum. Yours is not radiused. Macassar ebony can be dark, yours may become lighter if cleaned. The 2 dots ran from 74-79, depending on who's doing the presentation. Yours having that pin configuration would be the last date. The blade is 440C and Buck doesn't do reblades of different steels, only 420HC. Yours would clean up handsomely. DM
 
Thanks for the reply David.

So I cannot get the S30V? What about the 420HC in black oxide?

I'll clean her up and post better pics, but I bought this knife new when I was 13, the scales are black as the ace of spades and always have been. Even where I nicked them once, it's black underneath. The knife was $35 in '83, which was a good bit of money then, I wonder if it was that expensive due to it's black grips? Then again, an Ace Hardware has never been the low cost leader in anything, lol!
 
Your welcome. No, you cannot get a re-blade of S30V nor 420 in black oxide. Only the standard 420 and it has a satin finish, perhaps a step higher. Cuts of that wood can run black. I'm not saying you didn't purchase the knife in 1983. I'm saying your 110 was last mfg. in that manner in 1979 (give or take a few months). Who knows how long the New 110 sat in a display case at Ace Hardware, before you came along. DM
 
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PhilipM, Send the knife in to Buck and they will put in a new blade and clean up the knife for $10. You pay the shipping to them and they pay the return. After you see the finished product you will know it was the best $10 you ever spent.
 
If it were mine, I Wouldn't do that. I'd send it to Buck for a clean-up, yes. But not get a new blade. The 440C blade in it will cut right with a S30V blade. Plus, I prefer some of it's other properties over a S30V blade. Should your blade be worn or sharpened one can still find 2 dot 110's in good shape at knife and gun shows. Purchase this and send both to Buck and have them put that blade in your handle. Now, you'll have your handle with a full up-grade steel 110 blade. With proper sharpening it should last you 40 more years. By then you'll be in your eighty's and ready to pass it down. DM
 
David Martin said:
If it were mine, I Wouldn't do that. I'd send it to Buck for a clean-up, yes. But not get a new blade. The 440C blade in it will cut right with a S30V blade. Plus, I prefer some of it's other properties over a S30V blade. Should your blade be worn or sharpened one can still find 2 dot 110's in good shape at knife and gun shows. Purchase this and send both to Buck and have them put that blade in your handle. Now, you'll have your handle with a full up-grade steel 110 blade. With proper sharpening it should last you 40 more years. By then you'll be in your eighty's and ready to pass it down. DM
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Thanks David.

Can you explain the properties of the 440C you like over the S30V? Is there a sticky or post somewhere where I can learn about the different alloys used in these knives? What about the Damascus blades from snakeriver on Ebay, are they any good or just pretty?

I retired it when I went in Sam's Club one day and saw 110's for $20 with sheath in a blister pack. I bought a half dozen and gave some away as Christmas presents but I kept two and just learned they are all 2005 models with the state of Idaho date code. What steel is in those blades?
 
Try reading the sticky threads at the top of this Buck Forum to educate yourself on changes with Buck's steels? Buck went to 420HC in 1992. Then there is a good sticky thread on steels and properties at the top of the Maintenance Forum. Just google the steels your interested in. Here:http://ajh-knives.com/metals.html --some of the info. has since been revised. Spyderco publishes a good steel chart. Then Buck changed the 110 handles from solid macassar ebony in 1994 to a wood laminate. The cr content in 440C is very high and high C giving it good wear resistance and this surfaces during sharpening. Plus, the chromium content gives the added benefit of stainless and hardening. Being, mfg. of standard double vacuum melt = very clean and can be mirror polished. Whereas, S30V is a CPM steel of powder metallurgy mfg. and has V in it's mix which helps in hardening and edge retention. Also, adds to sharpening time. Is difficult to mirror polish. Then be sure to look at Mo as it affects edge wear and toughness. There is much more to this equation and comparison. DM
 
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