What setting should I use for the Sharpmaker?

[jmflem]

I'm gonna be ordering a Spyderco Sharpmaker in a few days, but before I do I want to know more about the degree settings of the system. I'm a complete newb at sharpening, so I don't really know what I'm doing. I have an Ontario RAT 1 that still has its factory edge. It's still sharp (cuts paper just fine), but the edge is rolled in a couple spots, and the tip is just ever so slightly rolled over. What should I do to fix this? I also have a Kershaw Blur that is a little dull in some spots. It still has its factory edge, so which setting should I use for this? And lastly I have a Gerber Prodigy that is very dull. It barely cuts paper, and it doesn't have it's factory edge (I failed at attempting to hand sharpen it with a cheap stone back when I was a total knife newb ). So what should I do for that? I also might consider sharpening my BK2. According to KABAR's website the grind is sharpened at 20 degrees. So what are the two settings for the Sharpmaker? If you guys could help me out I'd really appreciate it. Thanks!

 

[Bob6794]

15 and 20 degrees per side are the settings off hand. Use a sharpie and mark up the bevel and see which one hits the bevel the best. Use that setting unless you feel like reprofiling the blade which may take awhile and the diamond rods are recommended than. The sharpmaker is more for touching up a blade, that's where it shines and it does a dang good job at that from my understanding.

 

[Indiana Joe]

15 and 20 degrees per side are the settings off hand.

If I'm reading it correctly, my Sharpmaker has only 30 and 40 degree angles. Do you think I have an older model?
I'd like to have the option to use it for 15 and 20 degree angles.

 

[dkb45]

If I'm reading it correctly, my Sharpmaker has only 30 and 40 degree angles. Do you think I have an older model?
I'd like to have the option to use it for 15 and 20 degree angles.

The angles are 15 and 20 degrees per side, 30 and 40 inclusive. Remember that an inclusive edge is the sum of both edges, so doing a knife at 15° on both sides makes 30° inclusive.

That said, most people here will support doing the knife at 15, then going back through on the 20 to put a microbevel on. I prefer to go 15 and then let the strop round my knife into a slight microbevel. For a larger fixed blade, you will want to take the edge to 20 instead for better stability.

 

[numbersman]

dkb45 is quite correct, the 15 and 30 angles are the same. One is for each side, and the other is in total. You generally use the 30 degree slots for the back bevel, and the 40 degree slots for the front bevel. But you only set the back bevel every 3 or 4 sharpenings. Take your time, it won't get every knife sharp in a heartbeat. I have some really pretty crappy kitchen knives, because they are super hard. They stay sharp for a fair while, but they are murder to get sharp again. So start by practicing on some pretty good knives. Remember, YouTube is your friend.

 

[Bob6794]

Chances are your knife isn't "hard" but the bevel isn't being hit properly because it's too obtuse. Sharpie up the bevel and see if your hitting the bevel completely, if your not adjust accordingly so your hitting it. You may have to change the angle your using, prop up a corner of the sharpmaker, change angle your holding the knife, or reprofile the knife to fit the angle of the sharpmaker.