R.W.Clark said:
A knifes' worth is much better spent carving a stick to do the digging. If the ground is so hard that a good hard stick won't get into it, it is time to move locations as there is likely to be little food there to begin with.
Around here you can get very rooty soil which isn't that hard to dig with in terms of moving the soil, but is so thick with roots that using a stick is near impossible, obviously you can't be productive digging in woods with a digging stick either.
Other reasons to dig would be to simply place poles for various reasons, such as staking a peg or setting a spike for a trap which you might want in a specific location for various reasons so you can't always move to softer soil.
Lots of knives are also intended to be used for digging, simply because you don't make them to do so, doesn't mean you get to tell every other maker what users can do with their knives. That is kind of an odd perspective. Plus, it really isn't even an issue for any knife outside of a really thin edge light utility knife.
Even on the blades I have seen which I would rate on the very low end of durability and toughness in the heavy utility / survival / emergency class (the hollow ground high carbon stainless ones) all have all the edge damage by digging restored in about five minutes.
The same knives can easily be grossly damaged simply working in hardwoods. For example the Buck Strider was used to dig a moderate hole in rocky soil (one of the promoted uses of the knife), the edge chipped out, as expected for a high carbon stainless steel, but easily resharpened. Awhile later it suffered complete blade failure while hacking up hardwoods.
Now I do own blades that would not respond well to vigerous digging, the light utility knife that Wilson made for example, 1/8" thick full distal taper, CPM-10V at 62/63 HRC, if I had to dig with that I would be very careful not to load the point as it would not take much to crack it off.
I have dug with such knives, I used one from Mel Sorg to take weeds out of a grave as I was helping out a few friends and that was all I had on me. I just needed to resharpen the knife when I got home, and it worked much better than a digging stick as it could cut through the roots. Mel just thought it was funny when I told him.
Lots of knives not only indend this as part of their scope of work, but many like the Mission MPK-Ti have it as one of the main focus point, and others specifically include it obviously in the design such as :
http://www.jenseneliteblades.com/evosurv.htm
The only real concern about digging is that it puts a lot of wear on a blade, unless you do it carefully or there is little rock in the soil, but personally if I really like a blade, respect the maker and actually wear it out through use, then I'll just buy another one, I don't see that as a bad thing. Plus you are looking at years in any case.
There are also lots of other materials which put a similar high rate of wear on a knife, used carpet for example, or just used materials in general which contain a lot of dirt/grit can be very abrasive or try to spend a summer cutting fibreglass insulation.
STR said:
Mostly though just state your observations both good and bad.
This is the biggest problem with a lot of reviews, they come off as pure promotions as there is no mention of weak points, what the knife doesn't do well, where another knife would be a better choice etc. .
Pictures of anything you noticed or anything you did with the knife are always a plus but some of the great reviews I've read had no pictures at all.
Mike Swaim rarely used pictures, can't actually post any on usenet anyway, neither did Joe Talmadge, noting that pictures are a requirement for informative reviews when you consider the worth of the reviews those two guys is just insane.
Plus it is just a silly concept, if you were to sit down and talk to someone, would you expect them to constantly show you pictures. I just gave a friend a hand to haul up several truck loads of wood using a four wheeler.
Before we went down I was asking him about how it handled, how much wood we could load on, how it could handle inclines etc. . It would not have been more informative had he showed me a picture of it loaded on an incline than just told me.
Buy hey, add them if you can of course, on some things they can be valuable, such as showing wood cuts because you can gauge user skill, and throw in vid clips if you have a decent camera as well because then you can better judge things like "hard swings", "vigerous prying in woods" etc. . .
Lots of great stuff like that coming out of the HI forum thanks to Dan.
-Cliff