What should be used for sharpening INFI at home?

L

luckyD

Joined
Mar 1, 2011
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I just got my first Busse Hell Razor. It was used and I want to strip the coating out and resarpening the blade. Does anybody know what to use for sharpening INFI steel at home and how to do it correctly? Is there any links to video, which show how to sharpening the blade in the right way?:confused:
I’ll appreciate any suggestions and personal experience advice. :thumbup:
 
I have always free handed a lansky style extra fine stone followed by a ceramic crock stick. Hair shaving ensues.

I don't bring choppers to shaving sharpness, but 7" and under I do.

What part of La are you in. I am in Hammond area between New Orleans and Baton Rouge
 
Gravelface said:
I have always free handed a lansky style extra fine stone followed by a ceramic crock stick. Hair shaving ensues.

I don't bring choppers to shaving sharpness, but 7" and under I do.

What part of La are you in. I am in Hammond area between New Orleans and Baton Rouge
Click to expand...

I am in WEHO, La Brea/Sunset.
 
I had to google "WEHO" .....only about 1800 miles of course.

I passed through Sunset, Louisiana before, but WEHO threw me off.
 
Gravelface said:
I had to google "WEHO" .....only about 1800 miles of course.

I passed through Sunset, Louisiana before, but WEHO threw me off.
Click to expand...

LOL,

Once went to a job fair in Phx, talked with a recruiter from LA, things were going good, till I said cool I can fly out and stay with friends in Camarillo, he laughed said Baton Rouge, OOPS !

Back on subject:

I use a mouse pad and wet/dry sandpaper (320 - 600), followed up on a leather strop with aluminum oxide.
 
I am getting into the belt sanding system, but before that a hand strop and sandpaper got me by.
 
I just use a lansky I know it's not the most advanced but I've got a ton of hones for it all the way from extra coarse diamonds to a ultra fine saphire stone I've reprofiled and sharpened quite a few Busse-kin with it.
 
I have used water stones and the edge pro apex in the past. These days I just hand sharpen with DMT diamond stones.
 
jimmyjones said:
LOL,

Back on subject:

I use a mouse pad and wet/dry sandpaper (320 - 600), followed up on a leather strop with aluminum oxide.
Click to expand...

This.

If I am re profiling the edge, I might hit it with my 1x30 belt sander to set the bevel (convex edge). Then move on to sandpaper/mousepad (though now I use sandpaper over a heavy rubber base pad that is a lot more firm), then move on to a loaded strop to polish.

I have reprofiled several large busse's, including a FBMLE using only sandpaper/mousepad. Time consuming, but great results if you take your time.
 
Im a lansky fan. Only use it for the firsts major sharpen then just use the mouse pad method for touch ups.
 
I take advantage of the topic, I need to sharpen my gladius and it is the longest blade I own and I have no idea what to use. What do the other gladius owners are using?

thanks for the input!
 
It,s INFI find a rock in the back yard and rub it on that.:p

I have used the belt sander and the lanski, both work well.

Richard
 
I use the Spyderco Sharpmaker on all my blades - b11 and mistresses included - quick, easy and works like a charm.

Suprised not more mentioned it...
 
1000 grit sand paper and a leather strop. Garth recommended this method for my SAR 3 and it stays razor sharp. I have a Sharpmaker, but only use it for my folders and kitchen knives. All other large fixed convex blades go throught the paper and strop.
 
Bigfattyt said:
This.

If I am re profiling the edge, I might hit it with my 1x30 belt sander to set the bevel (convex edge). Then move on to sandpaper/mousepad (though now I use sandpaper over a heavy rubber base pad that is a lot more firm), then move on to a loaded strop to polish.

I have reprofiled several large busse's, including a FBMLE using only sandpaper/mousepad. Time consuming, but great results if you take your time.
Click to expand...


I have 2 mouse pads that I use, an older thick spongy one for convexed edges and a thin harder one for those which haven't yet achieved a convex profile.

I also have a hard strop from

http://www.woodisgoodco.com/

I sometimes use for the final finish, it's made for wood chisels, but works good with a little compound, it's a hard rubber like material, last forever.

Kaolin coated paper (shiny magazine pages) works good in a pinch, there is a thread about it in the general knife discussion forums, somewhere.
 
i use a DMT sharpener for all my folders- leather stop and compound for all my busse blades.
 
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