What should I do about this axe?

[millsware]

This is an axe I have. I've started sharpening it, but noticed that the edge doesn't seem to be the right shape. Should I try to reshape it? If so, would a file be enough, or would I need a grinder?

axe 001 by millsware, on Flickr

axe 003 by millsware, on Flickr

 

[Square_peg]

The shape looks pretty good to me. What shape do you think it should be?

In any case a good file is all you need to shape the bit of an axe.

Little bit of work with a file and hit it with a stone and that one is good to go. That's a True Temper Flint Edge in pretty decent shape. It's a quality axe.

Keep in mind that a file requires a file card to clean it and a vise or clamps to secure the axe while you work.

 

[jblyttle]

I love it. I recently sold a full sized Plumb 4lb that was similar, I didn't need it. As we speak I'm working on a Collins Homestead in the same style, but is 3.3lbs and 28 inches. It may be my personal favorite axe.

 

[jblyttle]

Not wedged yet but a work in progress. I hope that you keep yours.

 

[garry3]

Is there steel that has spalled off behind that bit? If so thats probably a heat treat issue.

 

[jblyttle]

Is there steel that has spalled off behind that bit? If so thats probably a heat treat issue.

No, that's a combination of remaining patina on the first bevel (I only fine sanded quickly) as well as a bad lighting angle.

 

[millsware]

The shape looks pretty good to me. What shape do you think it should be?

In any case a good file is all you need to shape the bit of an axe.

Little bit of work with a file and hit it with a stone and that one is good to go. That's a True Temper Flint Edge in pretty decent shape. It's a quality axe.

Keep in mind that a file requires a file card to clean it and a vise or clamps to secure the axe while you work.

I was more referring to the shape of the edge from the side. You can see that the axe is about flat, or even concave in the middle. Should I reshape it so that it has a nice curve to it? Notice the difference in the striking edge of the axe that jblyttle posted.

 

[millsware]

Any ideas?

 

[jblyttle]

Any ideas?

You can, no problem. I would only say that you should take it slow, remove as little metal as possible. These have only a slight curve, so I think that you will remove less than you might think. Start at the edges and slowly work, maybe even draw the new edge ahead of time with a sharpy. Not too much curve!

Also, if you use a sander etc, go slow and keep it from getting too hot.

I would look at several examples online and draw out as slight a curve as you can. You can do it, just be patient with your work. It will be great.

 

[Square_peg]

I was more referring to the shape of the edge from the side. You can see that the axe is about flat, or even concave in the middle. Should I reshape it so that it has a nice curve to it? Notice the difference in the striking edge of the axe that jblyttle posted.

It's a little flat but I wouldn't worry about that. Most old axes you find are worn on the heel and toe and are too round. Normal use and sharpening tend to wear the toe and heel fastest. Be thankful that you have a lot of toe remaining. Don't remove any of it.

 

[cityofthesouth]

Yeah that's easy work there. If I had that axe in hand, presuming it's going to need a fair amount of work to sharpen/reprofile anyway, I'd just give a few quick brushes over the belt sander (or file if you're overburdened by time or you're morally opposed to what I am suggesting) just to even things out, proceed to re-profiling as normal.

 

[jblyttle]

Yeah that's easy work there. If I had that axe in hand, presuming it's going to need a fair amount of work to sharpen/reprofile anyway, I'd just give a few quick brushes over the belt sander (or file if you're overburdened by time or you're morally opposed to what I am suggesting) just to even things out, proceed to re-profiling as normal.

I have a Craftsman 1x42 with a 6 inch wheel that I picked up cheap when I though I was going to play at knife making. I found that I don't have the interest, time or skill to pursue that little hobby, but it has become an invaluable tool for axes. Rust removal, edge prep, shaping wedges, smoothing messed up handle butts. I use the heck out of mine. I can even polish the edge with worn belts that still have some sawdust in them.

 

[Axe Master '94]

It's a little flat but I wouldn't worry about that. Most old axes you find are worn on the heel and toe and are too round. Normal use and sharpening tend to wear the toe and heel fastest. Be thankful that you have a lot of toe remaining. Don't remove any of it.

Agreed! If it's symmetrical/even, don't remove any heel or toe you don't have to.

 

[cityofthesouth]

I have a Craftsman 1x42 with a 6 inch wheel that I picked up cheap when I though I was going to play at knife making. I found that I don't have the interest, time or skill to pursue that little hobby, but it has become an invaluable tool for axes. Rust removal, edge prep, shaping wedges, smoothing messed up handle butts. I use the heck out of mine. I can even polish the edge with worn belts that still have some sawdust in them.

Agreed. I use a Craftsman 2x42 for everything - worn out belts IMO are great for working the steel when there isn't a TON of work to do. A worn out 80grit will just about polish the steel, and on the slack belt I get a great convex. And it generates almost no heat. All my handles get fitted with the belt sander as well. The bottom wheel (not sure if it was meant to be a contact wheel but that's how I use it) is awesome for making my own octagonal sticks.