Recommendation? What size wheel for compound grind on chef/gyotu?

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Maelstrom78

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Sep 21, 2013
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I have a flat platen only but have been wanting to try my hand at some compound grinding for chef knives.

I generally do one-offs for whatever I feel like at the time but now I have the bug to do several of the same knives in a row to try to fine-tune a single, popular style of kitchen knife.

I don't have a contact wheel and I'd like to add one to my arsenal. Would a 10" wheel be enough for a compound grind on, let's day, a 2" tall 8" chef knife? Maybe a 4" wheel for some light handle sculpting?

Thanks!
 
By "compound grinding", do you mean a hollow grind? If so, there is a webpage with a hollow grind height for different thickness blades with different diameter wheels. Here ya' go: http://dcknives.com/public/grind_angle_concave.php

Most chef knives will use a FFG rather than a hollow grind because the hollow grind just doesn't have much effect on the thin chef blade and 2" tall blade. example, using a 12" wheel with a .100" thickness the height of hollow grind will be less than 3/4". You can roll the hollow grind up so it will reach the full 2" blade height, but you've pretty much got a FFG by that time.
 
OK, now I see what you're talking about. Looks like he's got a narrow cutting bevel, then the other part of the blade is hollow ground with perhaps a 18" radius platen to allow it to release food better while slicing. Not sure, but Salem can tell us all about it.
 
I'm on his instagram getting inspired. I dig anything that someone can't just think they can get at Target.
 
Some call it an S grind. IMO, all you need to do is figure out how to get the upper "side" of the hollow. I have the 36 and 72 inch platens. First I do a two faceted flat grind and then hollow out up high and do a tall convex on the edge.
 
Thanks. Since it is such a tall convex would you leave the edge a little thicker before you do it? Maybe .005 or so?

Sorry and by two faceted you mean you do a normal bevel or have 2 large facets per side?

Thanks!
 
Think saber grind, but where the upper flat is not flat, but started off as a shallower full height bevel. I think what I did last time was grind the entire width until the edge was like around 1mm (started off with like 2.5-2.7mm stock) then did another bevel starting about 25-30% of the way down from the spine. Then hollow, blend and convex up about 3/8 inch from the edge. Here is a picture. Notice that you cannot really see the hollow or any other components of the grind. IMG_0367_zps8164674d.jpg
 
Show off!! Just kidding that looks great.

Ok that is basically what I was planning on doing. Then hand sanding to blend it all.

Thanks!
 
not goingto say dont watch the videos but i will add take with a grain of salt due to the fact that is is all over the place in many of his videos and often times "teaching how to do stuff while learning himself" you can for sure tho see how the S grind is set up i dont use it much but i do use the 48" hollow grind on a good many knives
 
butcher_block said:
not goingto say dont watch the videos but i will add take with a grain of salt due to the fact that is is all over the place in many of his videos and often times "teaching how to do stuff while learning himself" you can for sure tho see how the S grind is set up i dont use it much but i do use the 48" hollow grind on a good many knives
Click to expand...


Are you using your 48" for the urasuki on a japanese chisel grind? Do you use it in general?

Thanks much in advance.
 
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