What skeleton should I use if I try to make a silver handled 112 Ranger?

[Happy Hippo]

I am mulling over having a sterling silver handled 112 made. I think I need to use coin silver or sterling silver because pure silver might be too soft. I think I could get someone to pour the silver handles and then I think I could get someone to put the handles on and embellish it a little. Haven't figured out how I would want them embellished. I can't do any of it (or at least I don't have the time - yeah, let's go with that). If I use a regular 112, then I think someone would have to pound and drill the pins out so they can get the handle off for the silver mold. If I use a 112 TRX, the handles could simply be removed and used in the mold. Is that correct? I never tried to take one apart. Then the poured silver handle could just be screwed on with the same screws (presuming it is ok to have steel in contact with silver, galvanically speaking). Then there is a question about what to do with a spacer. The regular 112 has a brass space. Right? The TRX doesn't have a spacer. Right? If I used the TRX would I have to use some kind of spacer, albiet maybe very thin? What do you guys think of this? Or would the cost be so high that the money would be better spent on SFOs and BOTMs, etc?

I kinda like the idea of using the TRX because then I can have one person that pours the handle and another person that puts the handle back on an decorates it. As opposed to finding someone who can do both things. I've had people pour silver for me in the past with that special molding sand they use. And I've had people customize a 112 for me by sending them a 112 and some handles (haven't got that back yet but it has ram horn handles). But I don't know if there is someone that would do both things.

If it works out, I could get a copper one (which I guess Buck already just did), a tin one, a pewter one, a brass one, an aluminum one (which I know Buck made the 111 in aluminum), etc. Any metal that could be poured or machined. Even a bismuth one, although it might be too brittle. Have you seen how bismuth looks, it is iridescent and looks cool. A gold, platinum, or palladium one? No, I don't have that much money.

 

[bucksway]

I've thought many times about doing what you are considering having done..And the whole process can be much simpler than that. What I plan to do is take a Nickel silver frame with a blade I like, most likely a S35VN drop point, and having the existing handle material removed. Then have the rear bolster ground off. I have a 10 oz Royal Canadian mint 2022 silver bar that should be large enough to get both sides done. Scribe the outline of the handle on the smoother side of the bar to fit the frame and cut them out. Then it would be a simple process to file and/or sand down to fit. Same with the joint at the front bolster. Since silver is not a very hard metal edges can be radiused to a perfect fit similar to working with Stag or a hard wood. If the bar you choose is too thick just work it down till it does. There is lots of options in fact even a credit card sized bar that will probably work for Bucks with thin handles. After fitting use a powerful industrial glue (no need for rivets) and send it off to Dave Yellowhorse or your artist of choice..The first one will probably take more hours to work out the details but since silver is so much cheeper than gold a little lost in the process is not a big deal. After all all you are making is just a slab to replace the handles..
Edit: Back in the late 70's early 80's Buck did make a series of knives, including a 112, with Sterling silver frames. "Birmingham" seems to come to mind and the blades were Aurum etched. I think there was 5 different knifes and only a total of 3 sets were made. Very high end and I'm sure very expensive. I have never seen a picture of any of the knifes and only have read a brief description ..

 

[Happy Hippo]

I've thought many times about doing what you are considering having done..And the whole process can be much simpler than that. What I plan to do is take a Nickel silver frame with a blade I like, most likely a S35VN drop point, and having the existing handle material removed. Then have the rear bolster ground off. I have a 10 oz Royal Canadian mint 2022 silver bar that should be large enough to get both sides done. Scribe the outline of the handle on the smoother side of the bar to fit the frame and cut them out. Then it would be a simple process to file and/or sand down to fit. Same with the joint at the front bolster. Since silver is not a very hard metal edges can be radiused to a perfect fit similar to working with Stag or a hard wood. If the bar you choose is too thick just work it down till it does. There is lots of options in fact even a credit card sized bar that will probably work for Bucks with thin handles. After fitting use a powerful industrial glue (no need for rivets) and send it off to Dave Yellowhorse or your artist of choice..The first one will probably take more hours to work out the details but since silver is so much cheeper than gold a little lost in the process is not a big deal. After all all you are making is just a slab to replace the handles..
Edit: Back in the late 70's early 80's Buck did make a series of knives, including a 112, with Sterling silver frames. "Birmingham" seems to come to mind and the blades were Aurum etched. I think there was 5 different knifes and only a total of 3 sets were made. Very high end and I'm sure very expensive. I have never seen a picture of any of the knifes and only have read a brief description ..

I have those RCM bars too but I still think pure silver is too soft. I see jewelry supply stores sell sterling silver sheets in 10 ga thickness (about 0.1 inch). So I could just send those sheets and a 112 TRX to the craftsmen. He could trace out the handle and fashion new handles with silver sheet. I like the idea of not having to mold the handles. Also, I don't think I would screw the silver handles back on because the screws would probably not look good on the silver.

 

[bucksway]

Happy Hippo as long as reasonable care (but beware of dropping lolol) I think .999 would hold up well with carful use but considering the long history of making coins with 90% silver with other alloys for wear resistance and long life and use Sterling might the right choice especially if you are planning to REALLY use it daily and it might have a hard life. I plan to use .999 because I feel it will be easier to radius, fit and even cut especially for someone not used to metal work. I want the handles to be thick with a rear swell for a better grip (carpal tunnel syndrome) and bareheaded so there's more room for embellishment and possibly inlays. If I send a thick long hunk of silver to Dave I think he is capable of doing something incredible especially considering the latest designs he has been working on. And he IS a Master of inlay work. I really don't care if its 7 oz or double that because it will be my ultimate Dress Up Carry 112. When either you or me or both of us actually get one made I'm positive we will start a trend..after all there is a long long history of embellishing weapons of all kinds with precious metals and frankly I just love Silver and the way it looks and even wears. This 112 below was my first commissioned 112..All the dividers and all the square boxes are Sterling and the red resin boxes have chopped silver wire set in them. It really sparkles in the sun. It's based on a Leroy Reamer Custom called a "Raptor' made in 2011. It has a blade profile similar to a 532.

 

[jbmonkey]

I'd use sterling .925. pure silver is too soft and will wear away too easily. there is a reason they don't make jewelry or really anything other than collectible coins and bars in pure silver.

 

[st8yd]

Do you want the 112 or a 112 variation ie. drop point or modified drop? The donor could be a 112 slim or a TRX as they have the SS but spacer that holds the lock spring. I much prefer a drop point such as in the older 482 vs the later 482's which are a modified drop point, I think the 450's were also a drop point. Not overly fond of the current drop points being used, but still like them better than a clip point or modified drop point.
You can get SS and titanium screws or use SS pins
I made the handles on this one for my f.i.l.

 

[bucksway]

Using any of the Take-Apart 112's as the base for your Custom makes it fairly easy to make a simple handle insert using silver instead of wood ,bone or micarta. Many Customizers are doin just that with all kinds of fancy materials. Trying to recreate the recent Copper BOTM 112 using full silver handles would be much more difficult and expensive (But still really cool!!) mainly because of the time needed to RnD all the details. Years ago Buck used pewter inlays for a series of 110's made by a belt buckle manufacturer that was really popular with about 6th different scenes including Daytona Bike week. I know a very few WERE made in silver especially for the Bike week knife. This would be a great method for a poured handle.
I am going with a regular 112 made bareheaded with solid silver handles. Just because I want one like that and I think it can be done fairly well and not cost a small fortune.