What smaller splitter for my overlanding adventures?

[Sid Post]

I get a 28" or longer splitter in the 4~5+ pound range will work better, and I prefer a nice wood haft. However, weight and space are considerations.

I am looking at Fiskars X15 or X17 at the moment to support the need to build a campfire in remote locations. The 28" X25 sort of ebbs and flows into and out of consideration. I already have a good "felling" option, but no splitter.

TIA,
Sid

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

How are you transporting it, what's your budget, and do you want to do anything other than split, or is that its only job?

 

[bikerector]

If it's only splitting and space is a consideration, that little Estwing fireside friend is pretty neat. The basque axes have short hafts for the weight and split pretty well, but they're not cheap and there have been some reports of recent years having bad heat treats and they are pretty hard to get in the states.

Not sure if CT is still making them, but the saddle axe is a lot of fun for a little axe with one side being a little better at splitting and one for chopping. NOT a dedicated splitter, though, so if you're splitting big rounds, not the choice. It does split a lot better than I thought it would though for how short the handle is, but it might take 2 or 3 attempts whereas a boy's axe could get it with one. But, it adds a decent amount of versatility in a single tool and it's a lot of fun, and fun is important to me when doing activities I do for enjoyment.

The CT woodcraft is a pretty good all-around packable axe. It splits far better than the "forest" axes I've had from Europe, but I don't know if it's really much better than a good boy's axe for splitting. It is a good tool though, IMO. It's a lot better than a thin bitted felling axes or a big machete/chopper, but not as good as a splitting axe or maul by any means.

I feel like a splitting axe might be within what you're looking for, but I don't know of a lot in the smaller size range outside of the gransfors bruk small splitting axe and then you're looking at a lot of money.

What might be an option is getting something like the CT sledge eye splitting maul and cutting the handle down and reshaping the butt or drilling a hole and using a peg or lanyard for a "stop" spot in the handle. I think FortyTwoBlades had a video at one point with a cone shaped peg for such a use, when a chopping tool has a straight handle and you need it to not to take an unintended flight through the woods.

Maybe not too helpful, but maybe there are some ideas to work with in there somewhere. I know some people would just use a hammer and wedge in that scenario as well.

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

If it's only splitting and space is a consideration, that little Estwing fireside friend is pretty neat. The basque axes have short hafts for the weight and split pretty well, but they're not cheap and there have been some reports of recent years having bad heat treats and they are pretty hard to get in the states.

Not sure if CT is still making them, but the saddle axe is a lot of fun for a little axe with one side being a little better at splitting and one for chopping. NOT a dedicated splitter, though, so if you're splitting big rounds, not the choice. It does split a lot better than I thought it would though for how short the handle is, but it might take 2 or 3 attempts whereas a boy's axe could get it with one. But, it adds a decent amount of versatility in a single tool and it's a lot of fun, and fun is important to me when doing activities I do for enjoyment.

The CT woodcraft is a pretty good all-around packable axe. It splits far better than the "forest" axes I've had from Europe, but I don't know if it's really much better than a good boy's axe for splitting. It is a good tool though, IMO. It's a lot better than a thin bitted felling axes or a big machete/chopper, but not as good as a splitting axe or maul by any means.

I feel like a splitting axe might be within what you're looking for, but I don't know of a lot in the smaller size range outside of the gransfors bruk small splitting axe and then you're looking at a lot of money.

What might be an option is getting something like the CT sledge eye splitting maul and cutting the handle down and reshaping the butt or drilling a hole and using a peg or lanyard for a "stop" spot in the handle. I think FortyTwoBlades had a video at one point with a cone shaped peg for such a use, when a chopping tool has a straight handle and you need it to not to take an unintended flight through the woods.

Maybe not too helpful, but maybe there are some ideas to work with in there somewhere. I know some people would just use a hammer and wedge in that scenario as well.

The saddle axe is discontinued, unfortunately.

As far as the tapered peg goes, that was specifically for tomahawk handles where you have a slim handle you want a "knob substitute" on since the handle still needs to be easy to break down. On a wedged handle, just rasp or saw a couple of flats and laminate on some extra wood with some sturdy wood glue like Titebond III and shape to your liking

 

[Sid Post]

How are you transporting it, what's your budget, and do you want to do anything other than split, or is that its only job?

It will likely end up in my top box on my Tacoma or possibly my storage box on the nose of my Expedition trailer. I am looking for a decent dedicated splitter. Budget is for something durable and reliable, preferably under $100.

I won't be splitting huge rounds, so no monster 6lb or heavier heads. I was initially looking at various Fiskars and Husqvarna plastic handled options with head weights in the 3lb to ~4.5lb range (metric weights in the 1250g to 2000g range).

I also see some German and Austrian options with the "wings or ears" on the faces that also seemed reasonably priced with Hickory hafts mainly. Something along the lines of a Stubai Splitting Axe as seen over on Wiseman Trading out of Athens, AL.

 

[Sid Post]

2-3/4 lb Splitting Axe Hand forged Biber Classic, or the Stubai Nirolook German Style Splitting Axe with Brass Guard, both look tempting and seem to be priced well.


2.75 pound (1200) gram head, 24 inch Hickory handle, just under 4 inch cutting edge.

1800g (~4lb) and 28" haft.

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

You might also consider a Swedish-style splitting hatchet along the lines of those offered by Husqvarna, Prandi, or Adler. Tovarna Kos makes some nice Eastern European-style all-purpose axes in many sizes that have a very good splitting profile but they're hard to get your hands on here.

 

[Drop bear]

Fiskars are fine unless the wood is stupid hard. Then I would use a skrama and just baton.

Otherwise a hultafors Agdor is a about the same price as the fiskars.

 

[bikerector]

The saddle axe is discontinued, unfortunately.

As far as the tapered peg goes, that was specifically for tomahawk handles where you have a slim handle you want a "knob substitute" on since the handle still needs to be easy to break down. On a wedged handle, just rasp or saw a couple of flats and laminate on some extra wood with some sturdy wood glue like Titebond III and shape to your liking

I was looking at pictures of the sledge eyed maul from CT and it seemed pretty straight, similar to a tomahawk handle, which is why I was think the tapered peg. The nice thing about straight handles is cutting them shorter doesn't mess up the feel as much as a curvy handle. The negative is it's straight, which for me, is less ergonomic and harder to hold onto between repeated swings. Repeated swings is much less a problem with splitting than chopping.