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what steel do you like the best
- Thread starter jrhart50
- Start date
- Joined
- Dec 3, 1999
- Messages
- 9,437
For stock removal, I prefer O1, CPM 154CM, 3V, and good 'ol ATS-34.
For forging, I prefer W2, 52100, and 1084/15N20 for damascus.
All are readily available, CLEAN (you don't often find these steels full of inclusions and crud), very defined heat-treating parameters that I seem to do well with (even though I'm ALWAYS tweaking things).
O1 is relatively inexpensive, and makes a really solid cutter and I have had what seems to be good success with heat-treating it in my salt bath. It does rust like a bastard though.
CPM 154 CM works very nicely (easy to machine and grind) and is fairly easy to put a really nice finish on (hand-rubbed). ATS-34 really isn't much different, but the CPM process leaves you with a finer quality steel and MUCH less chance of inclusions than I've had experience with in ATS-34.
CMP 3V is a WORK HORSE... it's easy to machine and grind in the annealed state, but once heat-treated is NOT HAND SANDING FRIENDLY. It will cut, and cut, and cut... and takes a lot of abuse.
W2- It's sort of the steel dejour right now, but I sought it out several years ago when I first got addicted to hamon. It forges very nicely, is easy to heat-treat, and responds well to the clay applied, hardening process. It polishes out very nicely.
52100 is definitely a hype steel, but it has worked well for me. I like it for a carbon steel blade that I want fully hardened and hand sanded. I suppose O1 is actually a better choice for a blade.
1084/15N20 for damascus. They have similar heat-treating needs, and will forge weld together like glue. They make a fine cutting instrument when complete. I think O1 and L6 are a superior cutter, but they are not nearly as forgiving while working, and don't etch with quite as much contrast. I think so long as you have the required heat-treating sources, it's hard to go wrong with either. If you don't have a realy accurate heat-source, then it's a lot harder to screw up the heat-treating on 1084/15N20.
All of this is just my opinion. There are several other steels I've made knives from, that performed well (IMHO).... such as 5160, 6150, 1095, A2, D2, L6, etc.
For forging, I prefer W2, 52100, and 1084/15N20 for damascus.
All are readily available, CLEAN (you don't often find these steels full of inclusions and crud), very defined heat-treating parameters that I seem to do well with (even though I'm ALWAYS tweaking things).
O1 is relatively inexpensive, and makes a really solid cutter and I have had what seems to be good success with heat-treating it in my salt bath. It does rust like a bastard though.
CPM 154 CM works very nicely (easy to machine and grind) and is fairly easy to put a really nice finish on (hand-rubbed). ATS-34 really isn't much different, but the CPM process leaves you with a finer quality steel and MUCH less chance of inclusions than I've had experience with in ATS-34.
CMP 3V is a WORK HORSE... it's easy to machine and grind in the annealed state, but once heat-treated is NOT HAND SANDING FRIENDLY. It will cut, and cut, and cut... and takes a lot of abuse.
W2- It's sort of the steel dejour right now, but I sought it out several years ago when I first got addicted to hamon. It forges very nicely, is easy to heat-treat, and responds well to the clay applied, hardening process. It polishes out very nicely.
52100 is definitely a hype steel, but it has worked well for me. I like it for a carbon steel blade that I want fully hardened and hand sanded. I suppose O1 is actually a better choice for a blade.
1084/15N20 for damascus. They have similar heat-treating needs, and will forge weld together like glue. They make a fine cutting instrument when complete. I think O1 and L6 are a superior cutter, but they are not nearly as forgiving while working, and don't etch with quite as much contrast. I think so long as you have the required heat-treating sources, it's hard to go wrong with either. If you don't have a realy accurate heat-source, then it's a lot harder to screw up the heat-treating on 1084/15N20.
All of this is just my opinion. There are several other steels I've made knives from, that performed well (IMHO).... such as 5160, 6150, 1095, A2, D2, L6, etc.
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2008
- Messages
- 452
I like ATS 34 it seems like it takes a nice shine.
I allso like 13C26 it holds a way better edge than any thing I have found.
I allso like 13C26 it holds a way better edge than any thing I have found.
- Joined
- Jul 28, 2006
- Messages
- 3,953
I like 1084, used it for years. I also like 1095 and 5160 but my go to steel is 1084.
- Joined
- Dec 11, 2008
- Messages
- 393
I too vote for CPM 154!!! It has quickly become my favorite and CPM s30v a close second!!!
- Joined
- Dec 3, 1999
- Messages
- 9,437
Oh, okay. The label right on my steel from Crucible says CPM154CM.
- Joined
- May 2, 2004
- Messages
- 6,848
For forging I really enjoy working with 52100. It has a nice feel, under the hammer.
I don't care much for the way it finishes.
I like heat treating W2 and all of the 10xx steels.
L6/01 for damascus.
I really don't have one favorite steel. No one that has forged for any time, has only one steel in their steel holding rack.
As long as I know the heat characteristics of the steel, I can find a use for it. Fred
I don't care much for the way it finishes.
I like heat treating W2 and all of the 10xx steels.
L6/01 for damascus.
I really don't have one favorite steel. No one that has forged for any time, has only one steel in their steel holding rack.
As long as I know the heat characteristics of the steel, I can find a use for it. Fred