What steel does Victorinox use?

L

Lavan

Joined
Nov 8, 2000
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I just filed off the serrations on my One Hand Trailmaster and re-did the edge and ended up with the sharpest edge I have ever had on ANY knife.

I always thought they used table knife steel, but it must be better than that.

Maybe 420?

Anyone know?
 
Pretty sure they use something like 440A. It takes and holds a reasonable edge. The good thing about SAKs is, due to the thinness of their blade grinds, you can push cut for a long time after the razor edge is gone. The edge geometry on SAKs is great.
 
I`ve been eyeballin the trailmaster for a couple weeks-it caught my attention and i keep putting it off-also why did you file the serrations?-i would have thought they would be useful on a little utility tank like that. I like the two locking blade feature. Should make a great edc.
 
I am in a quandary. I bought the Trailmaster a couple years ago and liked the handiness but did NOT like the serrations. IF the serrations were at the back of the blade instead of the front, I think I may have left them.

I like the ease of sharpening on plain edge knives. Also the serrations are no good for whittling or smoothing walking sticks as the bumps dig in to the wood. The serrations ARE good for salami.

But all-in-all, I like a plain blade.

My quandary is that in the meantime, I bought a Spyderco Native III which is GREAT. But I still like the screwdriver, saw, etc. And I always had the Trailmaster in the SUV for adjusting sights on guns. So....suddenly last Sunday....I said "hey, I can take those serrations OFF and have what I really wanted in the first place.

so I did.

I have now retired the Spydie (maybe temporarily) and am EDC'ing the TM. And strange as it seems, I ....have....used the saw. To CUT the stick that got me PO'ed at the serrations in the first place.

The TM (as modified) is the sharpest knife I have ever had. And it has many more uses than a single blade. I even took off part of the hump so it is a bit more graceful and actually "looks" scarier.

For undercover work in the spy trade (when I'm not whittling walking sticks)

:)

The TM is VERY comfortable for my grip also.
 
I assume you kind of followed the contours of the balde face in grinding off the serrations - so that you ended up with a working edge that had very little bevel/step to the blade face?

That's probably the main reason why it is so sharp - your "personalized" blade/edge geometry gives lower resistance transitioning from the cutting edge through the blade face - probably because you now have less of a distinct bevel/step........

So it is probably the geometry more than just the steel (although obviously both contribute to sharpness) -
Cliff Stamp did some quite thorough testing to show that geometry affects the cutting ability more than just the steel:

Geometry and proper sharpening vs steel quality

BTW - It seems all of a sudden I do NOT have permission to do a SEARCH on BladeForums - is this just a temporary problem or is this now some policy?
If it is not a temporary problem I can see a lot more repeated and redundant questions being asked here.
 
Originally posted by UnknownVT
BTW - It seems all of a sudden I do NOT have permission to do a SEARCH on BladeForums - is this just a temporary problem or is this now some policy?
Click to expand...

See the sticky from Spark at the head of each forum "Off to SHOT!" for this message:

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