what steel for a file guide?

Joined
Jun 30, 2013
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I have four options of steel for file guide which would you choose which first and which second?

O1 S7 D2 A2

Thanks a Ton Guys!
 
I don't think it is going to matter AT ALL which of those steels is chosen for a file guide. Just remember to temper at a low heat. Always temper file guides so they don't snap. If I HAD to pick.....maybe A2 then O1. Just not a fan of D2 at all....nor S7.
 
Stainless of your choice with carbide slabs against the belt.

STAINLESS! Rust can and will develop under the carbide inserts and in the threads. Bruce Bumps first file guides were not stainless and some problems happen and now his are all stainless.
 
A file guide's only real job is wear-resistance. Of those four, I'd pick D2 strictly for the carbide content.
 
STAINLESS! Rust can and will develop under the carbide inserts and in the threads. Bruce Bumps first file guides were not stainless and some problems happen and now his are all stainless.

Was he the one that had some for sale on here not to long ago. If so they go pretty quick, I sure would invest in a set if they come up again.
 
One of Bruce's file guides was one of the first things I purchased last year when I got started. Very handy little tool. Plunge lines are a breeze when using it and I'm glad it's stainless, because mine sees a lot of water. So far the carbide inserts show no wear at all after many sessions at the grinder rubbing against ceramic belts. To be honest, I don't see the point of a file guide without the carbide inserts when these are available.
 
Good post Adam-

I have one of Uncle Al's original file guides, and it is A2. Wonderful tool!!!

But then he came out with the carbide guides, and I bought one... more money well spent! With a file guide, you are running your file until it starts scraping the guide... and it will VERY VERY VERY prematurely wear out your files. When it was the only option, it was a fantastic one and well worth the cost of the files... But now that the carbide guides are available, they just make more sense.

You will get the best results by cutting guard shoulders in with a carbide guide on a 9" disc. It will cut them FLAT, clean, smooth, and leave almost no burr. :)

I have another guide I made that can handle regular blades on up to my integrals, and because of a very generous forum friend, I have a super nice Bruce Bump style ss guide as well! :D
 
If you are using it as a FILE guide, hardened steel works just fine. If you are using it as a "grinder" guide, all of the steels you listed will not stand up to a ceramic belt at all.
 
My plunges took a giant leap in accuracy when I got the Bruce bump guide. It's worth every penny.
 
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