What steel takes a toothy edge best?

Bladenoobie1

Bladenoobie1

Joined
Jul 20, 2012
Messages
1,261
I've found recently that I like to put more "toothy" edges on my knives. I usually get the knife push cutting phonebook paper at a 500 shapton, then skip the 1k and go straight to the 4k to polish the bevels. The idea is to keep the toothy edge while making the bevel look nicer and have less resistance when cutting.

That aside I'm aware some steels take a polished edge better so I was curious as to which steels work best with a toothy edge.

- BN
 
I'm loving my Contegos edge.

120 grit, followed by 1500 grit ceramic.

IMAG0960_zpsafcc93a2.jpg


Out of all of the edges I've put on knives over the years this one has been the most impressive. Just cuts and cuts and cuts some more. I put this on a couple of months ago and I haven't needed to touch it up at all.
Cpm m4 is probably my favorite of the new crop of steels.

You also always read that d2 = a toothy edge, but I'm not convinced that a toothy edge is required on a d2 blade at all. So far I seem to be able to get enough of a polish on the stuff that I feel good about the idea of a refined edge. That's not what you were asking though... I'd definitely say that d2 makes a good candidate for a toothy edge steel. :)
 
One of my favorite edges I've ever had was just DMT extra coarse on 8Cr13MoV. When I tested it on my arm, hairs would jump off like they were scared of the blade. Very toothy, but not rough.
 
420HC seems to take some wicked toothy edges. I say that, based on the factory edges seen from Case (especially) & Buck, which are fairly coarse, but can still be nasty cutters. I think the same might be said for some AUS-6/AUS-8 blades I've seen on older Japanese-made production knives. One of the most painful and nasty cuts I've received was from a factory-fresh Case Tru-Sharp (420HC) blade; sharp enough to slice 1/4" ovals of skin from the tips of two of my fingers as the partially-opened blade snapped shut on them. And coarse enough to hurt like the dickens in the process.

Factory edges from Spyderco on some of their CPM blades (S30V, S90V) are fairly coarse, and can be impressive at that finish.

And I'm convinced that 1095 with decent heat treat seems to respond well to whatever grit one may choose for it, from coarse to highly polished.

A lot of cheaper stainless kitchen cutlery seems to do better with coarser edges, as well.

BTW, I also agree that D2 can work very well at fairly high polish. It takes a good while to finesse it to that level, but the payoff is worth it.


David
 
I'm reading the question but I don't consider a edge coarse beyond a coarse diamond/ fine India 325 grit. I've noticed once the edge gets beyond a fine India and stropped it takes on different cutting abilities. DM
 
In my experience, most softer steel seems to be more toothy.


X50CrMoV15 is a toothy steel to me, takes me a ehile to polish smooth.

So why does one prefer toothy over polished?
 
HwangJino said:
In my experience, most softer steel seems to be more toothy.


X50CrMoV15 is a toothy steel to me, takes me a ehile to polish smooth.

So why does one prefer toothy over polished?
Click to expand...

Because pocket knives see more rough work and fiberous cutting tasks which kill a polished edge.

X50 is a German steel and typically at a low hardness, polishing wouldn't be to your advantage nor should it be difficult. Not what most of us would consider a toothy steel though it does best with one.


As for toothy steels my vote goes to something with a high vanadium percentage like CPM S90V or a good tool steel like D2, A2, or M4
 
HwangJino said:
So why does one prefer toothy over polished?
Click to expand...

I don't necessarily prefer toothy over polished on most of my knives, but when I sharpen my own kitchen knives, I like a more "toothy" edge on them because of what I will use them for more often than not. I have to go out of my way to get the right amount of "toothiness" (my word, not Webster's) on them. All of my folders have a more polished and refined edge on them. I also put this type of edge on my customer's knives unless otherwise requested. (most wouldn't know or understand the difference in the two if asked their preference.)

Blessings,

Omar
 
A toothy edge is good for rough work IMO, and I find that SAKs take a good and toothy edge using one of the old "Carborundum" stamped pocket stones. They polish it somewhat, but the edge is toothy and tough.

Connor
 
I was thinking about what I cut most with that Contego and it makes sense why I enjoy the edge. Typically I'm cutting tightly stretched shrink wrap, industrial totes (fibrous), plastic straps, some boxes and food.
 
My Adamas, which is D2 of course, is amazing with a toothy edge. I can either use my Norton India stone, or my diamond rods with my SM. Either way, it can get really coarse looking, but push cut phonebook paper, shave, and cut like heck. I like it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top