What steel when I outsource HT?

matus

matus

Joined
Apr 24, 2009
Messages
662
Hi,

I am just starting to make (stock removal) my first knife (puukko) and I decided to start with 80CrV2 steel (about the cheapest I could get).

Since I will not be doing my own HT anytime soon (not possible, really) I will be outsourcing the HT to a company. My question is - what steels (see what is available to me below) should I go with if I do not have control over the HT? I will be able to specify target HRC, but probably not much more (I have not contacted these companies yet, so I do not know their HT process in detail)

The steels available to me are:
Carbon: 80CrV2, 52100, O1, O2, O7, 1095,
Stainless & Semistainless: A2, D2, RWL-34, N690, Niolox(SB1), M390, later even CPM-M4 (Vanadis 23)

Some cost more tha others, but that is really secondary in the total cost.

I am drown to 52100, O1, A2, D2 and RWL34, but I would love to hear your opinions.

I am planning to make outdoor knives and later maybe smaller kitchen knives.

thanks
 
I think Texas Knifemaker Supply only does air quench steel, but the others, Peters, Trugrit, etc can do whatever you send. You'll have to contact the ones you want to work with and see if they can handle what you're sending.
 
For general use outdoor knives, RWL34/CPM-154 will work fine. CPM-S35VN is step up in quality. These steels will also make good kitchen blades.

In the carbon steels listed, 52100 is the better choice. It will make very sharp and hard blades.

Any HTer that does knives should be quite familiar with these steels.
 
Thank you. But let me clarify a few things. I am located in Germany, so I will be using local companies that offer the service. They do not state selection of steels they can HT, just that I should specify the type of steel and wanted hardness.

Also - I am not necessarily looking for the best steel (I am just about to make my very first knife - so toughness or edge holding with not probably be the main issue with it :) ), but for one that does not need a very specific HT to get decent result. Example - I have read that 52100 or D2 that needs a rather elaborate HT to get most out of them.
 
Ask them what they do. You can look at different heat treatment companies and get a feel for what each offer. If all they say is that they do heat treatment and nothing more I'd be cautious. Heat treating some valve or flange is different than heat treating a blade where you want real performance.

I've had blades done simply in accordance with the manufacturer specs and the blades had performance left unused. I've had some blades done that should've been kind of worthless and they ended up being really good by someone who does it right.

If there is someone who specializes in knives then find them. They'd be your best bet. If you speak German then I'm sure there are a couple of forums that could help more than this one since you said you're located in Germany.

If you wanted to buy a car I'm sure a manufacturer simply saying they make a car that does 100 miles per hour wouldn't be enough information for you to decide. You'd want to know how fast it reaches 100 mph, the gas mileage, any previous reviews, consumer reports, how expensive it is, etc.
 
Indeed. But the companies I located are offering heat treat specifically for knives (and only for knives - so I understand). They also sell steel for knife making. It suppose it should be safe to assume that they can HT the steels they sell properly. I can of course ask what their HT procedure for give steel is, I just have 0 knowledge what is and what is not a proper HT for given steel. All I know at the moment is that some steels are less sensitive to the HT process than others.
 
matus said:
Thank you. But let me clarify a few things. I am located in Germany, so I will be using local companies that offer the service. They do not state selection of steels they can HT, just that I should specify the type of steel and wanted hardness.

Also - I am not necessarily looking for the best steel (I am just about to make my very first knife - so toughness or edge holding with not probably be the main issue with it :) ), but for one that does not need a very specific HT to get decent result. Example - I have read that 52100 or D2 that needs a rather elaborate HT to get most out of them.
Click to expand...

You have been a member for seven years and haven't filled out your profile yet. Doing that would have make this situation perfectly clear.
 
Sehr Gut.
This provided a good example of why it is important.

RWL-54, N690, Nilox, and M390 would all be good steels.
 
Go with Niolox(SB-1) this steel act pretty much like AEB-L but better edge holding, and will not break you pocket too.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top