(What to do with that) grooved steel

[HeavyHanded]

Recently moved and the previous owner left behind a set of Parker Bros kitchen cutlery with block and steel. Some in rough shape, some barely touched, all needing much TLC/bevel resetting etc. I finally finished with all of them and was wondering what to do with that darn grooved steel and its spot in the block. I believe they have a place with softer steels, but this set (unidentified) seems to be pretty tough and fairly high RC, so the grooved steel is out of the question I'm feeling poor right now, so buying some other diamond or ceramic hone to fit is out of the question as well, not to mention I'm not terribly fond of either tho have examples of both already. It came to me in a flash - wrapped the steel with a single layer of masking tape and dosed it with white AlumOx compound. Tried it out on the paring knife in the set (which I'd taken a bit too fine anyway) and it worked great! Finally an answer to the question and it keeps its role as a maintenance tool. Ahh, there is order in the galaxy once more....

 

[David Martin]

Smart are you, young Jedi! DM

 

[OHALLUM]

I find the one in my set of knives (good quality set) useful when the wife (God Bless her) tries to slice the tines on the big fork that is part of the set when she is carving a chicken or some such culinary delight. It will quickly bring the affected knife back to a sharp state without resorting to taking some steel off to re-sharpen. It just straightens the edge back up, not shave any metal off. I almost replaced it before learning of its true use on this forum. I thought it was worn out, when actually it is better when it is about half worn out.

Thanks to all who contribute on here for the wealth of knowledge available to those who will seek it.

Omar

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Going to have to try that out. Sounds pretty innovative. :thumbup:

HH, I'm assuming since the steel is taped, you're using edge-trailing strokes? I've experimented with both leading and trailing on the steels I've tried, and depending on what I need for the edge, both seem to have advantages at times. Curious to hear what you think for each, if you have a preference.

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

I find the one in my set of knives (good quality set) useful when the wife (God Bless her) tries to slice the tines on the big fork that is part of the set when she is carving a chicken or some such culinary delight. It will quickly bring the affected knife back to a sharp state without resorting to taking some steel off to re-sharpen. It just straightens the edge back up, not shave any metal off. I almost replaced it before learning of its true use on this forum. I thought it was worn out, when actually it is better when it is about half worn out.

Thanks to all who contribute on here for the wealth of knowledge available to those who will seek it.

Omar

Just so you know there are polished smooth steels out there--just not many makers still produce them. Perfect for realigning micro-rolls on very fine edges.

Cool trick, OP!

 

[HeavyHanded]

Going to have to try that out. Sounds pretty innovative. :thumbup:

HH, I'm assuming since the steel is taped, you're using edge-trailing strokes? I've experimented with both leading and trailing on the steels I've tried, and depending on what I need for the edge, both seem to have advantages at times. Curious to hear what you think for each, if you have a preference.

With the tape its just like a strop, so only edge trailing. I did as good a write up on steeling as I could here:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...and-close-look-at-steeling?highlight=steeling

Was very surprised at what I found. For softer, cheaper kitchen knives, the grooved steel is a good tool, just have to remind yourself its nothing more than a very fine file and use it accordingly (edge leading for best results). The smooth steels actually use some form of plastic deformation and work-hardening to make the edge more refined but I still find edge leading to be best. Again, fantastic for common steels but maybe not a good choice for higher RC or high alloy steels. Stitchawl recommends a borosilicate rod as a steel for the tougher stuff but I haven't given that a try yet. I might have to at some point though, with common steel grades I was able to go from the fine side of a SiC stone to hair whittling (literally) with just a dozen or so passes on a smooth steel - amazing. Also very demanding in terms of technique - if your angle control is not just right, this could lead to a tough time.

For a number of years I maintained my softer kitchen knives - low RC cheap stainless - with a grooved steel and a relatively fine one - works very well. For my softer outdoor choppers I used to use a rat tail file and a larger grooved steel for maintenance - makes for a quick edge that can shave arm hair, but its easy to loose the bevel angle and the edge doesn't seem to last very long compared to a compound-stropped edge, at least not for hard chopping/pressure cuts.

Edit to add:
Just as with a fine single cut file, the angle of the filing grooves relative to grinding path makes a big difference. Sharpening up one of my machetes I was able to get a burr free (mostly) arm hair shaving edge with just a file by using a 'draw-file' technique to finish. Using a grooved steel at an extreme angle to the grind would probably give the same performance boost.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Thanks HH.

I tend to use edge-leading more often as well. I'm sort of intrigued by the grooved steels, because I've found these can flip a burr faster than anything else I've used, or quickly create one. I've sometimes been able to create and/or flip the burr several times on a given edge to break it down, using leading strokes, then go edge-trailing on the same rod to break the burr off. Always with very, very light pressure. This burr-handling ability with these is sort of amazing to me; I have a tiny little 'steel', with a 'SHEFFIELD ENGLAND' stamp on it, that came with a Victorinox SAK & sheath combo I bought some years ago. And even with only 2-1/2" of grooved length, it'll create and/or flip a burr in just a pass or two. As you've said, on some of the softer/cheaper kitchen knives in particular, this'll put some very quick bite back into the edges on them.

BTW, I did seem to recall you'd looked into this a while ago. Thanks for the link to your other thread; I'm going to spend some more time looking that over. :thumbup: