What to look for in a good bali??

Joined
Dec 11, 2000
Messages
103
I am going to a gun and knife show in the near future and am sure there is gonna be balisongs there. I highly doubt the vendors are gonna have a lot of info on them so what should i look for in a good one? I will get to hold it, any key areas to look at? thanks a lot!!
 
Okay, the first thing to do is look at the blade. Look at the area that is just above the handles when the knife is open. If you see the name Benchmade, Pacific Cutlery, or Taylor then it's a good Bali.
smile.gif
I might have missed a few so I'll expect other people to add a few names to this list. Also, don't bother with the Taiwan made knives, they are pure junk. Sometimes you can find good deals on old Bali's because soem vendors don't know the value. I used to see BM bali's all the time last year for $75-$100. It may seem high compared to other balis but the quality is worth it. They also last a LONG time. Good luck in your search.

 
Okay, as you're looking around, you'll notice these small plastic tubs with a bunch of cheap balisongs in them. Most of them say Rostfrei or China, don't buy them! You should try to get a Jaguar, those are good starters. Sometimes you'll be able to find old Benchmades, PC's, and Taylor's for cheap. I still kick myself for not having the money to buy a $70 BM-45. If you can afford them, GET THEM. Otherwise just get a Jag and start saving up for something better.
 
bali lover, i figured that much. I have a few BM folders, i know they are good knives. I only have about 50 bucks to work with i wanted to know how to inspect a knife that i dont know the brand of, should i look at the pins? Lock? Blade? Handle? What one a good bali is different than a bad bali.
 
I would say if you are on a budget of about $50 that you shold just go ahead and pick up a Jag for around 20-25 bucks and save the rest for a BM sometime down the line.
 
IMHO it boils down to metallurgy.....The blade and tang pin usually are the hardest part of the knife. If you can find a knife with steel handles then they will take the abuse of manipulation much longer. Brass would be the next choice and Z-mack the last......The softer the handle material and the heavier the blade, i.e., 3/16" thickness as opposed to 1/8", the more battering the handles and their 'pockets' get and the looser the knife will become latched open or closed. The softer material will allow the pins to wear in the holes and cause additional looseness. The 42's seem to stand up well, I feel in part, because of their lightness and the resiliency and strength of titanium..........The bottom line: YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR!
wink.gif
 
Back
Top