What to look for in an old double-bit head?

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Apr 7, 2006
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I have a few axes/hatchets that I use at my cabin or bring hiking but I've always bought them new/complete. I'd love to pick up an old double-bit head to restore and rehandle. I'm thinking about a cruiser size axe with cutting/splitting edges. I can care less if it's covered in surface rust or unprofiled, I'm quite apt with metal working, I just don't know what to look for in old heads. I'll probably be buying it off the Bay what brands, styles, price should I be looking for?
 
One thing to look for in old heads is that the edge bevel isn't too obtuse. This is often a sign that the axe has been worn down and re-sharpened many times. A full sized double bit that has been worn down to 8-1/2" or 9" isn't a cruiser, it's just a worn out axe. A short (bit to bit) fat axe is probably worn out and at the very least will take a lot of effort to re-profile the cheeks. Slim but still convex cheeks behind the bit are a sign of a fresh axe. Another really obvious clue is toes that are worn down shorter than the heels. It's natural for the toes to wear down first but all too often you see axes with the toe a half inch or more short of the heel. That axe is gonna take a lot of work to bring back and may not have a lot of hardened steel left on the bit to work with.

But I think the biggest tell between a good vintage axe and a modern cheapo is the shape of the cheeks. New junk axes almost all have flat cheeks. Good vintage axes almost all have nicely convexed cheeks.

So in summary:

1 - Shape of cheeks
2 - obtuseness of bit
3 - length of toe

If those things all check out then you've likely got a pretty good axe.
 
I'll probably be buying it off the Bay what brands, styles, price should I be looking for?

Lot's of brands made good axes - too many to name. But if you happen upon a Kelly Perfect that meets the 3 criteria above and is in a Western or Pennsylvania pattern then I wouldn't toss it to the curb.
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Decent DB's can be had for $10 all day long. Premium ones can easily approach triple digits. But for a great working axe there's no need to pay over $15-$20.
 
My Kelly World's Best is at just under 9.5 inches. It was super fat, but still had a lot of hardened material for both edges. A soak in vinegar is what let me know.

Like you, I don't mind a bit of metal work. I guess I sort of turned it into a cruiser? At least the cheeks are nice and convex.
 
Pegs nailed this already(well done Pegs).

Maybe some "names" to look for could include Plumb, Kelly, Collins, and Mann Edge. Old school American axe makers with good quality.

Hope your search goes well, and when you do find the prize, lets get some pics on here!

Thanks!
 
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