What to look for when chosing a machine

Hengelo_77

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So I worked on a few knifes by stock removal.
Now I am in the position that I have some money to spend on a machine or machines.
But I don't know what to look out for.
I will only be doing stock removal.
What would be a good choice, a belt/disk sander and a seperate polisher?
What detaill should I look out for? Contactweels, speed, HP, etc.

My workspace is about 5 foot x 7 foot.
 
Somthing I have found in making knive is you want a machine that is versital that has easy change over from one item to another...I use a KMG and it has the fastes change over I have seen.
 
Hengelo_77 said:
.....................
Now I am in the position that I have some money to spend on a machine or machines.
But I don't know what to look out for.
I will only be doing stock removal.
What would be a good choice, a belt/disk sander and a seperate polisher?
What detaill should I look out for? Contactweels, speed, HP, etc.

My workspace is about 5 foot x 7 foot.


If I was in your country, I'd email Rob Frink of Beaumont Metal Works. He can break the shipment of his KMG1 grinder down to save on freight, etc.;)

If you have the money, get one loaded with everything, 4"-14" wheels and everything in between.
http://www.beaumontmetalworks.com/


A disk sander can be made from any 1/2-1 HP AC motor and get a 9" disk from the same Mr. Frink, who you can also buy a disk grinder from should you prefer to go that way.
I would get the flat 9" disk, and he makes them from steel or aluminum, I believe, your preference. With the 9" disk, you can glue on sheets of wet or dry sandpaper at $.50 a sheet rather than $2.50-3.50 for PSA disks. You use feathering disk adhesive to put on the disk evenly and let it set up till it's just sticky to the touch but won't come off on your finger when you touch it, and then press the abrasive sheet of sandpaper to the disk.

Leave all the excess sheet hanging off at one end, and when you trim the sheet to the disk, you'll have a strip to hand sand with later. You can get about 2-5 changes of abrasive sheet before you have to remove and reapply adhesive. They make a remover for that, or you can use lacquer thinner.

For a good buffer, I'd get a Baldor 332B, the 3/4HP 1800 RPM version. It will handle any sized buff, within reason, say from 4" to 10", and is slow enough not to scare you too bad when using, though like any buffer, it's about the most dangerous tool in the shop, so be careful.

For Gods sake get a respirator with cartridges good for not only carbon based stuff, but formaldehyde too. That's a main ingredient in not only micarta, but grinding belts too, among other things. They are available. If the place you get one from says they don't have them, tell them to order them for you. Get adapters and cotton prefilters to go over the cartridges to keep them from being contaminates with the dust. They are made to filter fumes, not dust and grit.

I'm speaking 3M 6000 series half face masks here with cartridges in the same # range. What they have there might be a lot different, but the protection won't be. Just remember to have the additional formaldehyde protection. It will be written right on the cartridges.

Good luck to you.:thumbup:


Edited to add: Just in case you don't already know, tell whoever you order electrical equipment from what your voltages are there, as well as cycles. Most manufacturers are aware of the differences, but you just never know who you may run into that might not.
 
GRIT in Denmark make an exellent grinder similiar to the Square Wheel. Contact your local machine tools dealer for info on GRIT machines.

These guys in Holland carry a wide range of machine tools. Some are Asian makes. I have boght from them and they are good to deal with. You can drive over and look at their showroom. http://www.buitelaar.nl/
 
Thnx for the info!
And, Mike Hull, I agree, the health issue is an important subject . I won't cut any corners there.
 
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