What to use for sealing bone ?

Matt Shade · Aug 30, 2001

I've got a trapper I just put together that has white bone scales with an inlay of bolivian rosewood at each end. ( yep, its the one that the F*** up fairy attacked me on, but uh yeah I really did plan on having the rosewood spacers all along

) Any way, I've got some finish that I like on the rosewood. Its called Arm R seal and is a mix of tung oil and urethane. I'm not sure its the way to go though because it doesn't seem like the oil mix would work well on the bone.
I've heard people mention superglue or polyurethane for bone by itself. Was there any particular stuff that worked best ? And what kind of finish would it leave on wood?
I can get Zap super glue in a couple different thicknesses and with diferent accelorators if they're needed.Probably even have a can of minwax polyurethane in the shop already. Other suggestions are welcome too.What do you guys think ?
Thanks for any help.

R.W.Clark · Aug 30, 2001

Use Zap thin or Extra thin, but no accelerator. If you use to much kicker it will turn the CA white and looks like c*#p. You can bring it up to a very high gloss with a buffer and non coloring rouge.

Possum · Aug 30, 2001

Howdy There....!
I have good results with using superglue as a sealer on hardwoods and bone. I fact was working on four blades today that walnut burl slab handles. Sanded them down slick as glass and sealed them with two coats of glue, then went to the buffer. They came out slick and pretty, take a small sample piece and give it a try to see how it will work first. Superglue works great on the bone. Good luck....!

Later "Possum"

dson · Aug 30, 2001

I got turned on to this from Bailey Bradshaw.
It's made by Minwax. It's called "Wood Hardner".
Bailey cuts it 50/50 with Acetone (the acetone helps it penetrate the material and evaporates fast). Put the mix in a container drop in the parts let it soak for a few hours, remove and let it dry overnight. Finish as usual. Works on ivory, bone, and wood. I made a vacuum chamber out of an old steam cooker and use it for stablizing all my wood and bone. Works slick. LarryD

Andrew McLurkin · Aug 30, 2001

Matt, I've also had good results with super glue. I coat evenly, let it dry over night and sand. I repeat until I get the look I want. This varies with the material being sealed.

Matt Shade · Aug 30, 2001

Thanks guys
Looks like the poor bastids at woodcraft have to clean my drool off the tool case twice in one week lol.I'll try the Zap. I almost picked it up the other day while I was there but its a good thing I didn't because I was going to go for the thick, I thought it would coat better. The penetration from the thin makes more sense though.

The wood hardener idea sounds good. I'll have to use that on future projects though because this knife is already assembled.One of the pins that holds it all together goes through the scales on both sides, so I had to put it together completely before doing any type of finish work on the scales.

JM Wands · Aug 31, 2001

dson,,,, Just wondering how much vacum you need to "stabilize"wood and bone? Thanks,,,JM

dson · Sep 1, 2001

JM, I think from all I've read here on the fourms on the subject that at least 27-29 inches of mercury is the ticket. If I'm not mistaken that's about one atmosphere.
Check out these threads. http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...id=44225&sortby=lastpost&sortorder=descending (check out the vacuum chamber plans thread)

There is a lot of information in the BF archives
on wood stablization and vacuum curing. Hope this helps. ld

JM Wands · Sep 1, 2001

I work all week thinking for someone else, then come home and can't figure how to think for myself!

Thanks for the patient reminder and reply. JM