what to use to lube a sak joint

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Mar 22, 2006
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THe jopint on my farmer is geting a little stiff wanted to lube it up....I was thinking of using grapessed oil As I often use the blade for food prep, but I'd hate for it to go rancid was considering wd-40 but that adda another prob in regards to food prep....What do you use??
 
WD-40 isn't really a lubricant, besides it gunks up pretty quickly. I believe the "WD" stands for water displacement. 40 stands for the test number. So it was "water displacement test number 40" which worked as the scientists wanted so they named the product WD-40.

If the pivot is getting a little stiff, hold it under the hottest water you can stand, use a little dish washing soap and work the blade and tools to rinse out all the gunk let it dry or blow it dry. See how that works.

As far as what to lube it with goes, I don't lube mine to be honest. Oil just collects dirt anyhow and you wind up with the same problem, only quicker. I just keep mine clean. Now, this is just my opinion, many others do lube their knives.

Mike
 
After cleaning your knife like Yam suggests work a little candle wax into the joint. It lasts a long time, does not attract dirt, does not get oil stains in your pockets, does not get oil on your hands and is safe for food.
 
I use Militech oil to lube my folding knives. It goes on wet then dries. The flyer which came with my Benchmade 550 Griptilian recommended it.
 
No lube. I find those highly polished surfaces on SAKs do fine without any lube at all. In fact, any wet lube (or even semi wet lube) will attract dust. Occasionally I get a used SAK that is grungy. Sometimes I soak it in WD40 to free it up, sometimes simply soak it in soapy water. Once clean, no lube is necessary.
 
On any knife that I might use for food (actually most of my knives) I use just regular old mineral oil. Safe for consumption, super cheap and works pretty well.
You can get it at walmart or any drug store. They sell it for use for constipation so I always make sure I tell the cashier thatt it's just for my knives ;)
 
I'm with the no lube crowd. None of my SAKs have ever been lubed. Like was mentioned in a previous post, clean the knife and it should be fine.
 
Thanks guys... I tried gving it a thorough cleaning but it still stubbor over the las quater of opening and the 1st quater of closing....I've only had it for about 2 months so far... hope it loosens up.... since we're talking about saks any way I was wondering if anyone knows if the lockback saks such as the rucksak have thicker blaes than the allox models...also if the locks are good and sturdy... Thanks.
 
The unground base portion of my Rucksack knife is about 0.085" thick according to my vernier calipers.

I've had my Rucksack for a while and I like it, even if I only use it occasionally (it sort of has 'Sunday Best' or 'City Carry' status). The lock seems fine, although I never really trust any folder lock and I try to use my folders without depending on the lock. Actually, as I think about it, I can't really think of anything I do much of with a folder that makes a lock essential....I may as well just have an old slip-joint knife. If I am trying to push a hole through something with my folder, I try to remember to keep my fingers away from where the blade would go if it suddenly snapped shut.

I do occasionally lubricate my folding knives, especially the carbon steel ones. I use cooking oil....generally either olive oil or canola oil. I also use canola to prevent rust on fixed blades, other tools, and the steel cooktop on my camp stove. It works well, although it may go a little sticky if left in a thick layer for a long time. I store tools at a camp near the sea coast, and the canola has proven itself to be a good rust preventitive.

I once read a recipe for making your own penetrating oil, and it was a mixture of 'parrafin and rape seed oil'. Where I come from paraffin oil is also known as kerosene, and canola is a variety of rape. (about 9 parts by volume paraffin oil, to one part of rape seed oil). Naturally I would not use the kerosene mix on a knife I carried in my pocked or used for food preparation.

I am a fitter by trade, so it seems wrong not to lubricate any moving parts. However a lot of people don't bother and their knives seem to last well enough.
 
I own the Hunter lockblade and Trekker OH lockblade models, but neither are lockback designs. The Hunter has a slide switch on the side that unlocks the blade for closing and the Trekker is a linerlock style that locks both the main blade and the large flathead screwdriver/bottle opener.

The locks are secure, but that doesn't mean that I'll be using it any differently than a knife without a locking blade. They will all fail, depending on the circumstances.
 
If the pivot is getting a little stiff, hold it under the hottest water you can stand, use a little dish washing soap and work the blade and tools to rinse out all the gunk let it dry or blow it dry. See how that works.


Mike
I've had success bringing SAK's into the shower with me and cleaning them up.
 
I do occasionally lubricate my folding knives, especially the carbon steel ones. I use cooking oil....generally either olive oil or canola oil. I also use canola to prevent rust on fixed blades, other tools, and the steel cooktop on my camp stove. It works well, although it may go a little sticky if left in a thick layer for a long time. I store tools at a camp near the sea coast, and the canola has proven itself to be a good rust preventitive.

Pretty sure you coated the blade on my Ed Shaw Sgian Dhub with Canola Oil when you shipped it up to me, and I had left it stored with that coating during a rather hot/humid period that brought a Patina to some of my other carbon knives. Needless to say, the canola lubricant did protect the blade nicely for that duration. It is is in fact a decent anti-rust preservative.
 
I don't lube any of my stainless knives.

But if I were going to lube a stainless knife used for food prep, I would use the mineral oil sold in drugstores like TLR does. It is safe for food and does not get gummy over time except for whatever dust gets caught in it.
 
Ah...nice to hear from you Mp510. I was thinking about you the other day and I'd forgotten your username.

I don't use my Shaw sgian dhub much nowadays, although I was using it regularly for a while and I marked the handle a bit. It looks quite used now.

I have too many knives really. I should pass on the sgian dhub to somebody who will particularly appreciate it. I mainly use a khukuri or my cheap Cold Steel Finn Bear on my belt when I'm out hunting or trapping.
 
I use 1 drop of olive oil on each side of the joints and worked it in on my SAK camper after each cleaning. I never have problems cleaning it or any folding knife with olive oil. You can clean out the joint by using a old toothbrush to scrub it out with hot soapy dish water.
I have the OHT for a bigger SAK and I love it.
 
Thanks guys... I tried gving it a thorough cleaning but it still stubbor over the las quater of opening and the 1st quater of closing....I've only had it for about 2 months so far... hope it loosens up.... since we're talking about saks any way I was wondering if anyone knows if the lockback saks such as the rucksak have thicker blaes than the allox models...also if the locks are good and sturdy... Thanks.

Farmer blade thickness 2.75mm at the tang.
OH Trekker blade thickness 2.5mm at the tang.

This is not what I was expecting, I measured it twice.
 
The unground base portion of my Rucksack knife is about 0.085" thick according to my vernier calipers.

(0.085" = 2.159mm, probably officially 2.15mm)

That is interesting I just measure my OH Trekker Blade at the tang and got 2.5mm or 0.098" and the Farmer was 2.75mm or 0.108", hmm... I just checked my Camper and it is 2mm or 0.079". Very interesting.

(Measurements are in metric because the Swiss use the metric system, which is why the people that mod SAKs have a hard time getting brass rod that fits the holes.)
 
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