What to use to reprofile super steels?

Knarls

Knarls

Joined
Apr 20, 2017
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Hi all. I just recently purchased a couple spydercos in cpm S110V and ZDP 189. I have a sharpmaker For touch ups. But I am looking for a low price set up for reprofiling (not even sure if it’s possible) but that’s why I am asking here.

I have done a little research and I’m not comfortable enough free hand so that narrows it down to a guided system. I don’t really want to spend 400-500 on a wicked edge or an edge pro. I am just wondering if there is anything that will work for around the 100 range?

I found a DMT aligner pro kit in the budget, any good or no?

I would love to take all or most of my knives to 30 degrees inclusive don’t really need a polished or mirrored finish.

Juat looking for advice anything helps.

Thanks
Josh
 
Get a DMT diafold C/F and rubber band/rig it to your sharpmaker. You know you need diamonds to do any reprofiling in a reasonable time. Cheapest option possible.

But if you are going to spend $150+ on supersteel knives, why get the cheapest option possible to sharpen? I have a Wicked Edge (about $450-500 i think) and it works great, and since I have expensive knives, I have no problem spending 2 knives worth of money on a piece of equipment that will sharpen any and all of my knives if I want.
 
Yes good point. I have spent 600 on 3 knives this past month hahah.
I was just wondering if there was a cheaper set up for reprofiling or if the WE and edge pro are it?
 
flatblackcapo said:
You could always send it out. There are some very good sharpeners offering their services here.
https://www.bladeforums.com/forums/the-custom-shop-services-offered.870/


This is one that I have used and can recommend.
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/traditional-sharpening-services.1132962/
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Thanks for the advise. The only issue for sending them out is I live in canada and the postage can be a pain in the a$$ and not to mention the whole knife limitations with the CBSA lately.
 
chumaman said:
DMT aligner pro kit.....good to go :thumbsup:
just slowly with the clamp, does not over tighten the screw :eek:
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Have you used one yourself? Do you find it hard to get the hang of? Have you reprofiled anything?
My only concern is that the lowest angle you can put on a knife between 1-2” wide is 17 degrees or something like that.
 
A lot depends on how wide the edge is at the shoulders -- the "behind the edge" width. If you have a thin edge, than diamonds can handle a reprofiling pretty easily.

But if the edge is thick edge and made of high-wear steel, it's going to be a bear to reprofile. Even with my Wicked Edge 50/80 grit diamonds, it takes a long time and a shower of diamonds to get the job done.

Now, when I have to reprofile a thick edge, I always use a motorized system, usually a 1x42 belt grinder. Once the bulk of the metal is removed, it's fairly easy to finish the reprofile and refine the edge with the WE diamond stones.

You can also send your knives out to a good pro sharpener and have them cut a 30-degree inclusive edge bevel. After that, you can use your Sharpmaker at the 40 degree setting to maintain the edge with a micro-bevel.
 
I just read that you live in Canada. Lots of knife makers up that way, but you can also purchase a Viel Tools S5 Belt Grinder that is made in Canada. It's not too expensive. It will reprofile any edge in a jiffy.
 
Twindog said:
A lot depends on how wide the edge is at the shoulders -- the "behind the edge" width. If you have a thin edge, than diamonds can handle a reprofiling pretty easily.

But if the edge is thick edge and made of high-wear steel, it's going to be a bear to reprofile. Even with my Wicked Edge 50/80 grit diamonds, it takes a long time and a shower of diamonds to get the job done.

Now, when I have to reprofile a thick edge, I always use a motorized system, usually a 1x42 belt grinder. Once the bulk of the metal is removed, it's fairly easy to finish the reprofile and refine the edge with the WE diamond stones.

You can also send your knives out to a good pro sharpener and have them cut a 30-degree inclusive edge bevel. After that, you can use your Sharpmaker at the 40 degree setting to maintain the edge with a micro-bevel.
Click to expand...
I was also looking at a ken onion work sharp motorized rig. But from my understanding when you use a belt to sharpen you are getting a convex edge? Sorry if I use the wrong terms I am very new to sharpening.
 
Josh Reed said:
I was also looking at a ken onion work sharp motorized rig. But from my understanding when you use a belt to sharpen you are getting a convex edge? Sorry if I use the wrong terms I am very new to sharpening.
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Well, first, it's not very convexed. I don't think the convening is enough to worry about. And you can sharpen up by the roller to completely eliminate the slight convex.

With a belt grinder, you can also use the platen, a flat piece of metal that the belt glides over. You'll avoid conveying if you use the platen.
 
Twindog said:
I just read that you live in Canada. Lots of knife makers up that way, but you can also purchase a Viel Tools S5 Belt Grinder that is made in Canada. It's not too expensive. It will reprofile any edge in a jiffy.
Click to expand...
Just took a look. An awesome looking aforidable system. Thank you very much for the information.
 
Josh Reed said:
Have you used one yourself? Do you find it hard to get the hang of? Have you reprofiled anything?
My only concern is that the lowest angle you can put on a knife between 1-2” wide is 17 degrees or something like that.
Click to expand...
IMG-20180405-_WA0002.jpg

my knives usually are very thin behind the edge so it is sharpening like that
DMT aligner is used only to set the first angle because the knife is new ... just that i'm exactly sure ... further freehand
 
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I tend to just use the ten inch long DMT Extra Coarse bench stone for reprofiling shown because it is very fast. With the large surface area and long length I can remove a lot of metal fast and get on with it. Used free hand. I put magic marker on the bevels so I can see where I am taking off metal. There is a good chance of scratching the side of the knife if you mess up. I don't like scratching the blade on a stone but all of mine are users so it isn't a big thing for me.

Once I have the bevel laid back and the edge thinned out I can refine it on a guided sharpener. Usually my Edge Prp Apex. The small DMT Aligner stones do work and are good enough quality. The optional 8,000 DMT aligner stone does a pretty darned great job for me; I recommend getting one.

I have the basic Aligner kit and the draw back is it won't get shallow on small knives; my Edge Pro Apex totally will and I double back tape the aligner stones to a smooth aluminum sharpening tape plate for the Edge Pro.
The process of double back tape is a PITA but I rarely do it. Some day I will buy diamond plates for my Edge Pro or perhaps the new diamond grit impregnated stones. If they ever make 'em for the Edge Pro. Not a priority for me at this point.
These are all old photos generally applying to your questions.
IMG_3674.jpg

IMG_3430.jpg
IMG_4747.jpg
 
ZDP is pretty rough to work, but doable without diamonds. S110V without diamonds is just masochism. For a steel so packed full of super hard vanadium carbides, you really want something that can shape them. I've done S110V, ZDP-189, Maxamet, and S90V all with my DMT Aligner. I would recommend getting a DMT EC or EEC stone to supplement it, I found that you can use the clamp with arms extended coupled with the stone using the rubber feet provided to roughly match the same angle, giving you a much bigger stone to work with for reprofiling. Without using that method with my EC stone, there is no way I would ever try to reprofile anything over S30V in difficulty to sharpen, I don't have a week to dedicate to setting a bevel on one knife.
 
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