What tool do I need?

Joined
Oct 11, 2013
Messages
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Just received my new Spyderco Native Lt (cts-xhp brown) today and can't change the clip to left hand carry. The mating clip screw is a Phillips-like screw but no Phillips driver I have ever had fits it. What is it?:confused:
 
Does it look like a six sided star? If so you need a torx screwdriver. My Sage 1 and the Para I had both used them. The Paras clip screw was T6 sized and the Sage is T8 I believe. I use a Husky eight in one. It's a good investment as a lot of knives use them. Hope this helped.
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Go to Lowes. They have a set of small screwdrivers with torq and Phillips bits in the handle. Great for those odd needs
 
Philips is a cross shape. Haven't ever seen a Spyderco that uses Philips.

The older Spydies use philips screws. The newer ones move over to Torx.

But to the OP, listen to the other people saying to try a penny or nickel. I think that was what Spyderco had in mind with their barrel bolt clips. No need for fancy schmancy tools, just a simple coin which everyone has laying around! Much more end-user friendly!
 
I have the torx drivers and phillips. It's more like a Phillips except the 4 shoulders taper up from the center and not configured for any Phillips drivers. But as BenLong & Starwolf suggest, a nickel does seem to fit but as I apply torque to two nickels held by vise-grips, I can't keep them from slipping out of the slots. The barrel screw holding the clip also serves as a lanyard port.

Seems like some tool would be available to facilitate the change of carry seeing that the knife is marketed as ambidextrous carry.
 
Here's your answer

I use 2 nickels to change the barrel clips. One on each side.

Another tip is to run the clip and underneath some hot water in case there's any Loctite.
 
But to the OP, listen to the other people saying to try a penny or nickel. I think that was what Spyderco had in mind with their barrel bolt clips. No need for fancy schmancy tools, just a simple coin which everyone has laying around! Much more end-user friendly!
I think the nickel thing is the way to go. Just can't understand why it wouldn't budge. I may soak the clip/lanyard hole assembly in Liquid Wrench for a month or two before attempting removal again...errr maybe a day or so.
 
I think the nickel thing is the way to go. Just can't understand why it wouldn't budge. I may soak the clip/lanyard hole assembly in Liquid Wrench for a month or two before attempting removal again...errr maybe a day or so.

If it's lock tite-ed heating it up before unloosening can save damage and then the following forum complaints about how it came broken to ( insert forumite's name here).

A couple seconds of a hot soldering tool on the metal screw/barrell.
 
If it's lock tite-ed heating it up before unloosening can save damage and then the following forum complaints about how it came broken to ( insert forumite's name here).

A couple seconds of a hot soldering tool on the metal screw/barrell.
Be very careful using a soldering iron, more than a few seconds of direct heat and the FRN around the barrel bolt will start to melt.

FRN is resistant to almost everything, direct heat non-withstanding.
 
If it's lock tite-ed heating it up before unloosening can save damage and then the following forum complaints about how it came broken to ( insert forumite's name here).
A couple seconds of a hot soldering tool on the metal screw/barrell.
Be very careful using a soldering iron, more than a few seconds of direct heat and the FRN around the barrel bolt will start to melt.
FRN is resistant to almost everything, direct heat non-withstanding.
BINGO! The soldering iron, 2 nickels and 3 vise-grips prevailed. Thanks guys! I didn't think anyone would really bother with such a dopy question.
Btw, what's a "snark thread?"
 
Glad you got it sorted out. Now you can enjoy using the knife as it's meant to be. They can be workhorses and it is a good steel. As far as "snark" I take that to mean "smarta$$ " though I certainly could be wrong.

Welcome to Blade Forums, Spyderco. We are all here to learn and ask questions, or answer them if you have the info. My advice would be to ignore folks who are here primarily to annoy others or troll. The majority of people are on the journey, one stage or another. :)

Joe
 
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