- Joined
- Oct 11, 2013
- Messages
- 823
Just received my new Spyderco Native Lt (cts-xhp brown) today and can't change the clip to left hand carry. The mating clip screw is a Phillips-like screw but no Phillips driver I have ever had fits it. What is it?

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Philips is a cross shape. Haven't ever seen a Spyderco that uses Philips.
I use 2 nickels to change the barrel clips. One on each side.
I think the nickel thing is the way to go. Just can't understand why it wouldn't budge. I may soak the clip/lanyard hole assembly in Liquid Wrench for a month or two before attempting removal again...errr maybe a day or so.But to the OP, listen to the other people saying to try a penny or nickel. I think that was what Spyderco had in mind with their barrel bolt clips. No need for fancy schmancy tools, just a simple coin which everyone has laying around! Much more end-user friendly!
I think the nickel thing is the way to go. Just can't understand why it wouldn't budge. I may soak the clip/lanyard hole assembly in Liquid Wrench for a month or two before attempting removal again...errr maybe a day or so.
Be very careful using a soldering iron, more than a few seconds of direct heat and the FRN around the barrel bolt will start to melt.If it's lock tite-ed heating it up before unloosening can save damage and then the following forum complaints about how it came broken to ( insert forumite's name here).
A couple seconds of a hot soldering tool on the metal screw/barrell.
Get something other than a Spyderco, obviously the product support sucks
Get something other than a Spyderco, obviously the product support sucks
I don't see how the OP asking about the proper tool to work on his knife equates to poor product support from the factory
Bruceter
I think there are several thousand people on this site who would disagree with you.
I don't see how the OP asking about the proper tool to work on his knife equates to poor product support from the factory
Bruceter
If it's lock tite-ed heating it up before unloosening can save damage and then the following forum complaints about how it came broken to ( insert forumite's name here).
A couple seconds of a hot soldering tool on the metal screw/barrell.
BINGO! The soldering iron, 2 nickels and 3 vise-grips prevailed. Thanks guys! I didn't think anyone would really bother with such a dopy question.Be very careful using a soldering iron, more than a few seconds of direct heat and the FRN around the barrel bolt will start to melt.
FRN is resistant to almost everything, direct heat non-withstanding.