What type of axe do I need for this chore?

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Oct 20, 2000
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Yesterday, I lent my new axe to a guy to chop down a tree at the back of my house.

The axe is aesthetically well designed. In fact, it looks like one of those used by Conan the Barbarian.

At first, the axe worked wonderfully. The branches came off with one smooth strike.

However, towards the end when the main trunk had to be contend with, the axe failed. Heck, its edge showed shameful signs of chips. It even bent under the rock hard stubbornness of the tree trunk.

Now I want to know what model and make of an axe that can bring down a tree easily - a tree that has a trunk diameter of about 12 inches.

Any Axe-perts out there?



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Make Love your strongest weapon. Compassion your shield and forgiveness your armour.
 
Felling and limbing are usually done with two different axes as heavy chopping is hard work and to make life easier you use tools optomized for a very tight class of work. Limbing is far harder on an axe than felling.

Gransfors Bruks makes very nice axes, I have only used their smaller one but know people who have used the larger ones and they are reported to work well, which I would assume based on my experience with the Wildlife Hatchet.

Another I would suggest are Wetterling Axes also from Sweden. You can find them on :

http://www.garrettwade.com/index.cfm

I have no experience with them, but have discussed them in email with experience users and the described performance is very strong.

Depending on the types of wood in your area you might have to modify the edge profile on these axes slightly. They are intended for use on softer woods from what I can see, so if you are felling much harder woods, especially if you are limbing, you may want to raise the bevel slightly to a depth of about 1-2 mm, otherwise you may see deformations of about 0.5-1 mm. Depends on your technique as well, the more skilled you are the easier it is on the axe.

-Cliff
 
Cliff,
Why is limbing harder on an axe than felling? I would have guessed the opposite but I have not done either so I am curious. Thanks.

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Alex Penton
 
Especially if you are standing on the limb you're chopping...



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The wise man said, "It can't be done." The fool came in and did it.

Muddy water is best cleared by leaving it alone.

Take the Test...
 
have you ever heard of a chain saw?
if you look at the quality axes you can buy an inexpensive chain saw for less and cut up as much wood as you want in about 1/10 the time. at least that has been my experinece in manageing my woodlot.

alex
 
Chainsaws are high maintenance, require chain oil and fuel. The chains are fragile and need sharpening fairly regularly. They don't like not being used. Low cost ones wear fast. They make a heck of a noise. But, yep, they sure do a good job at cutting wood. There is a skill level; chain saw cuts are nasty.

Limbing out puts stresses and strains all over the place as every chop is different: different angles of cut, different wood hardness, notches, more likelihood to hit the dirt. Much is of small stuff, often green springy stuff, where a light faster and more tapered axe works best by shearing through. Felling only requires some deep wedges being cut, chip by chip. Chips are best done with a stouter, heavier axe head.

I'm sure Cliff will fill in the tech side.
 
Thanks Cliff for the information on the kind of axe I may need.

I have looked at the site which you have suggested.

Enlightening stuff. Will be getting the better ones soon.

Thanks again.

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Make Love your strongest weapon. Compassion your shield and forgiveness your armour.
 
alex:

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Why is limbing harder on an axe than felling?</font>

Mainly because the wood is smaller, the larger the wood, the easier the contacts are on the blade as the pressure is reduced. Also, trees are usually limbed out after the wood has been felled some time ago (8 months or so). During this time the limbs will season and get very hard as compared to the trunk of the tree which was chopped through when it was felled.

However it gets even worse. As Greenjacket noted the mechanics are very different among the two. A bad hit when felling usually will just cause a glance and while dangerous to you, doesn't pose much of a threat to the axe. On the otherhand during heavy limbing the edge of the axe can experience very strong torques as well as lateral impacts on the primary grind above the edge.

If the above doesn't sound to bad then imagine the following :

Get a hardwood dowel about 3 feet long and 1.5" in diameter. Put the blade in a vice holding it edge up at about a 45 degree angle. Bring the dowel down as hard as you can and hit the blade where the edge intersects the primary bevel. Vary the angle and impact points a little and repeat. Then again vice the blade and this time point the edge straight up. Use a hammer to set the edge in the dowel perpendicular to the grain. Now wrench the dowel to the side as hard as you can breaking the edge out of the wood. Try this at various depths.

I don't recommend doing this as it is likely that the blade would come lose from the vice, but that is along the lines of what a blade can experience during limbing.

Now of course it is not necessary to limb in this way. You can vastly reduce the beating the edge will take by taking more cuts to go through a limb using a counterstroke on all limbs and even notching them fully if you desired. And overall progressing at a much slower and careful pace. If you only have a limited amount of work to do this is the optimal way to proceed, especially if you were in some kind of survival situation and wanted to prolong the edge of your knife. However if you are working against the clock to clean up the winters wood, you generally have to press on fairly hard.

There are lots of other techniques as well, for example on the worse types of limbs, which are dead and/or frozen, you can often beat them off with the poll of the axe or even a stout club. However this is not practical if you have to handle the wood, again for the winters burning as the limbs will not be cleanly cut and the sharp edges that are left make the wood much too difficult to handle and can easily rip through your skin.

In regards to an axe vs a chainsaw, a lot of it depends on how much you have to do. I have limbed about about 250 small sticks in the past couple of days with a couple of large knives. A chainsaw would be much more tiring to use because of the weight, even the smallest cannot be handled deftly with one hand and thus allow a quick cleanup of small wood.

For felling really large wood, then yes a chainsaw will process the tree easier than an axe, but for any kind of survival/wilderness living that is way beyond the size of a tree needed for any shelter or fuel. As well, trees that size are very difficult to handle. Any tree of decent density (spruce and above), is extremely heavy once you pass about 8" and even chopped up into lengths is not trivial to shoulder. If you have not done it before, the shear across your chest will be very painful even if you can handle the compaction on your shoulder. You would be much better off felling and cleaning up multiple smaller trees.

In regards to survival chainsaw vs axe, is also an easy choice because as Greenjacket noted the upkeep of a chainsaw. It would be like asking which is a more important skill, knowning how to navigate by the sun as Davenport illustrates on his site, or knowing how to use a GPS. If you have some kind of GPS device then you are in good shape, however depending just on it, is probably not a great idea.

-Cliff


[This message has been edited by Cliff Stamp (edited 06-14-2001).]
 
I have felled a couple trees with the large double-edged Gransfors axe and it works very well. Neither tree was over a foot in diameter. One was green and the other dead. Needless to say, the dead wood was harder but it didn't damage the Gransfors. I have tried several of their axes and all are impressive.

DPD.
 
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