- Joined
- Aug 2, 2010
- Messages
- 1,611
Hey I'm just about to finish up my NWG and well, first off I need at least one 2 X 72' belt to make sure it works and to make adjustments o it but I'd rather just purchase all I need to achieve my different types of finishes.
I only work with simple High Carbon steels (1095, 1084, 1075, W2 etc.) and I'm not sure if that would make a difference on belt type but I figured I let you know that just incase. My main goal is to be able to take my blades up to a nice 400 grit (or higher) finish and then from there go to hand rubbing. I have recently been grinding my blades to 50-80 grit pre-HT and then post HT I have to start hand rubbing at like 36 grit :thumbdn: which really freakin sucks and takes all the joy out of making knives. I have been making a lot of smaller knives with like a 3 1/4" edge on them and I like to have a almost full flat grind but like to leave about an 1/8" flat, and have been using 1/8" thick steel. So I'm sure you can imagine how hard it is to go through all those grits, especially the really low grits while tryin to get every previous grit scratch mark out and trying to maintain the nice crisp grind line with such a small flat aread with out basically rounding it over or just snading right off. I should mention the reason I do this is beacause with the grinder I am using, I am able to get a rough grind in with a crisp grind line. but if I try to even change grit once pre-HT, the high amount of non precision with th grinder I use will just screw it up, and I don't even want to get into trying to do it post-HT.
Anyway, I'm not sure if all that was necessary to type but I thought it would help if I gave you guys my point of view. So I read that alot of people like to get their belt from POPs knife supplies and If they order from there, they get the 3M 977's and 3M Gator belts. I've also ready that if I was going to order from USAknifemaker to get Blaze and Norax belts. However I do know USAknifemaker has now started to stock gators. I also don't know the difference between, for example, 3M 977's and 3M 976's as well as the other belt types and all of the other weird number systems for belt type and grit)
So my question(s) is, What would best for me (using carbon steel, it that matters) since I'd like to get to at least 120 to 220 grit pre-HT and then to at least 400 grit or higher post-HT so I can then begin hand rubbing my knives. I would also like to get high grits so I can do machine finishes as well, I want to do both. Also how much of a gap when it comes to grit amount should I leave between each belt change, ie. 36, 50, 80, 120, 220, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, or could I just use 60 (or higher?) grit to establish my profile and bevels then move to say 120, 220, 400, 800, 1200. I hope you understand what I'm trying to ask. I also get confused and don't understand whatsoever with certain belt types the type of "grit" system they use, like A45 or 50X or other weird letters for Blaze or 3M or Norax or Trizact or Ceramics etc. Is there a site or somewhere that has all the belt types listed with their belt "roughness" converted to normal grits? (like A45 = 120 grit)
I hope I'm not asking too much cause my head is spinning just thinkin about it all. So yea basically, what brand or type of belts and in what progression of grits should I get to get me to a good grit to begin hand rubbing , as well as to just continue to a nice machine finish?
I know alot of people would say that they stop at 400 then usse a Scothbrite belt and then they're set, but I would like to know as well, what progression of grits (or whatever roughness system is used for the type of belt) I should use to get a nice and shiny satin finish, not mirror, but very reflective.
Thanks to all who have been helping me out with my questions, I do appreciate you all very much and don't take it for granted. Thanks again in advance!!
-Paul
my youtube channle with some of my knives and other knife making related vids www.youtube.com/Lsubslimed
I only work with simple High Carbon steels (1095, 1084, 1075, W2 etc.) and I'm not sure if that would make a difference on belt type but I figured I let you know that just incase. My main goal is to be able to take my blades up to a nice 400 grit (or higher) finish and then from there go to hand rubbing. I have recently been grinding my blades to 50-80 grit pre-HT and then post HT I have to start hand rubbing at like 36 grit :thumbdn: which really freakin sucks and takes all the joy out of making knives. I have been making a lot of smaller knives with like a 3 1/4" edge on them and I like to have a almost full flat grind but like to leave about an 1/8" flat, and have been using 1/8" thick steel. So I'm sure you can imagine how hard it is to go through all those grits, especially the really low grits while tryin to get every previous grit scratch mark out and trying to maintain the nice crisp grind line with such a small flat aread with out basically rounding it over or just snading right off. I should mention the reason I do this is beacause with the grinder I am using, I am able to get a rough grind in with a crisp grind line. but if I try to even change grit once pre-HT, the high amount of non precision with th grinder I use will just screw it up, and I don't even want to get into trying to do it post-HT.
Anyway, I'm not sure if all that was necessary to type but I thought it would help if I gave you guys my point of view. So I read that alot of people like to get their belt from POPs knife supplies and If they order from there, they get the 3M 977's and 3M Gator belts. I've also ready that if I was going to order from USAknifemaker to get Blaze and Norax belts. However I do know USAknifemaker has now started to stock gators. I also don't know the difference between, for example, 3M 977's and 3M 976's as well as the other belt types and all of the other weird number systems for belt type and grit)
So my question(s) is, What would best for me (using carbon steel, it that matters) since I'd like to get to at least 120 to 220 grit pre-HT and then to at least 400 grit or higher post-HT so I can then begin hand rubbing my knives. I would also like to get high grits so I can do machine finishes as well, I want to do both. Also how much of a gap when it comes to grit amount should I leave between each belt change, ie. 36, 50, 80, 120, 220, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, or could I just use 60 (or higher?) grit to establish my profile and bevels then move to say 120, 220, 400, 800, 1200. I hope you understand what I'm trying to ask. I also get confused and don't understand whatsoever with certain belt types the type of "grit" system they use, like A45 or 50X or other weird letters for Blaze or 3M or Norax or Trizact or Ceramics etc. Is there a site or somewhere that has all the belt types listed with their belt "roughness" converted to normal grits? (like A45 = 120 grit)
I hope I'm not asking too much cause my head is spinning just thinkin about it all. So yea basically, what brand or type of belts and in what progression of grits should I get to get me to a good grit to begin hand rubbing , as well as to just continue to a nice machine finish?
I know alot of people would say that they stop at 400 then usse a Scothbrite belt and then they're set, but I would like to know as well, what progression of grits (or whatever roughness system is used for the type of belt) I should use to get a nice and shiny satin finish, not mirror, but very reflective.
Thanks to all who have been helping me out with my questions, I do appreciate you all very much and don't take it for granted. Thanks again in advance!!
-Paul
my youtube channle with some of my knives and other knife making related vids www.youtube.com/Lsubslimed
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