what type of solder?

B

BLADECARVER

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Apr 8, 2007
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what type of solder is best used for soldering brass guards to carbon steel blades. the type that is most user friendly? flows nice ect. please be specific in the type of solder god only knows there is a zillion different types. best to use a regular solder gun? or hand torch? thanks guys
 
I like "STAYBRITE". Use a torch. Keep your flame on the conservative side. Don't worry too much about the blade, but use common sense. If possible, apply the heat from the tang side.
 
The one to use is a 95Sn 5Ag or similar . They do 'stay bright' , melt at about 400F. If using on stainless steel make sure you get a flux that says 'for stainless steel' . The trick to solder is to fit the joints carefully , .003" gaps !!
 
Solder requires flux !! Hollow core solder comes with flux in the center, otherwise you need to add. Liquid or paste , though I prefer paste. The noncorrosive fluxes are usually for use with electronic stuff. For knives I would boil in a baking soda solution to get all the flux off .
 
I like Tix. It melts at something like 280F. Stay Brite is another good solder. The flux that comes with the solder is what you should use. Absolute cleanliness and preparation is a must. Have all parts at a snug fit. Solder is not made to bridge big gaps, but to seal small ones.
Stacy
 
Stacy , tell me more about TIX. I see it's Indium based , actual composition ?? Any other comments ?
 
the eutectic 157 solder is some of the best that I have tried. However the floride based flux is some of the nastiest that I have used. It is very hard to neutralize but It will work for soldering stainless.
 
I don't solder very many things, so you can take my advice with a grain of salt, but I've been told by more than one maker to use a heat gun over a torch. I saw that Steve Johnson does that as well. The torch will work, but you can overheat the solder easier.
 
TIX is called the worlds hardest soft solder. It melts at 275F and has 4000 PSI strength. It is an Indium/Tin/Lead alloy with traces of nickle and platinum. It flows real nice and looks good. The thin round sticks are perfect for soldering, as they are small in diameter.Use TIX flux. Use anti-flux (yellow ocher ) to keep it from going anywhere you don't want it.
Stacy
 
Where do you get the TIX solder? Can it be purchased at hardware stores or does it need to be ordered?
 
TIX is available from most all jewelery supply companies, and a few knife suppliers. It is a little expensive (about $8 a tube IIRC) and the flux is specific, so you should use the TIX flux.
Just google TIX and you should get a couple of hundred suppliers.

BTW, here is the MSDS for TIX :
http://www.techni-tool.com/content/resources/MSDS/132SO026.pdf
 
burke531 said:
the eutectic 157 solder is some of the best that I have tried. However the floride based flux is some of the nastiest that I have used. It is very hard to neutralize but It will work for soldering stainless.
Click to expand...

Mr. Burke, are you talking about the euctectic paste that has the solder and flux combined into the paste form ? I picked up some from Pops http://www.popsknifesupplies.com/silver.html but have only had a chance to use it a few times. Any tips on the best method of using it ? I have been applying a bead of the paste around the entire joint then using a heat gun. I use a Ti pin to chase the seam upon melting. Anything to add ? FWIW, I have been using Sta-Brite flux/solder with good results prior to trying the euctectic paste. Sta-brite works well on stainless blade to stainless guard which, IMHO is the benchmark test. I've been wondering about the Tix and may have to give that a shot after Stacy's plug.

Stacy, I've been trying to come up with the correct method of using the "anti-flux/yellow ochre powder". I mix the powder with H2O into a paste and paint it where I don't want solder to flow. How close can I paint the ochre to the solder joint before I end up creating a problem. Any tips on using the ochre would be greatly appreciated :) Thanks :thumbup:
 
I mix my ocher with alcohol, but water will do fine (It just takes longer to dry).
Paint on a thin layer of ocher. Don't get it on any of the joint or it will wick in and you will have to re-clean everything. Make sure it is fully dry before starting the solder job.Apply the flux so it does not run into the anti-flux. or it will mix and create problems. I sometimes pre-flux the joint,apply the anti-flux, and then solder.
The real culprit in soldering with low temp solders is HEAT. It has to be evenly applied to all parts and surfaces, and it can't be over applied. At about 50 degrees above the flow temp of most soft solders, oxides start to form that will prevent flow. A heat gun is a good choice for those who can't seem to use a torch gently. The gun evenly heats all parts and applies only enough heat to do the job. Remember to apply the heat from the opposite side of the joint as the solder is applied. NEVER apply the flame to the solder until after it is fully flowed into the joint.

Final note:
If the solder melts and you can't seem to get it to flow....STOP ,re-clean/sand all surfaces and start again. More heat won't solve the problem. A properly fitted and clean joint will only take a small amount of fluxing and the solder should flow smoothly through the joint.
Stacy
 
Dave,

No I am talking about the solid wire with the pink liquid flux that comes in the little kit mentioned above. This is the only stuff that I could get to hold stainless to stainless but I have not tried the paste stuff. I use either a propane or oxy acetylene torch for all of my soldering. I just clamp the end of the tang in the vise with the blade up and then heat the tang under the guard until the flux just starts to bubble and then add solder to the under side of the guard add a little mor heat to the guard this time and watch for a thin line of solder at the blade guard joint and you are done. unless you screw up very little or no clean up is needed.
 
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