What type of stainless machines well for a 48" long sword?

Bruce Bump

Bruce Bump

Joined
Dec 2, 1999
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No kidding I have a chance to make the sword for a 15 ft. high bronze statue entitled: "DUTY" It will be on display in the U.S. Calvary Museum. They want stainless steel. Where and what type? It needs to be 1/2" x 2" x 48" Heat-treat is not neccesary but machineability is a must because it has a full length fuller!
 
Bruce, I would say the 300 series. No carbon, or so little as to be negligble. I don't know about the machining issue though. Some say the stuff is nasty to machine. But any 400 series, while easier to machine, is sure to rust over time.
Maybe some type of Titanium. I'm just guessing now Bruce.;) :confused:
 
Sounds like a cool project man! Good luck!

Will 400 really rust? I thought that stuff was dife-knife material. Also, you could put some sort of rust-inhibitor on it if rust is a problem.
 
WoW Bruce! I can't add anything except they sure did pick the right guy for that. You're not going to put one of those damn pistol things on it are you?? :D :D

rlinger
 
I offered to put a nice little double barreled exposed hammer gun on the side but the artist is bound to have it look like the original. Darn.

I also heard that the 300 series is a pain to machine. I do have experience with the 400 series even heat-treated I hear it can rust. Is there a treatment to spray on it to seal the oxidation out?

Any more good ideas?
 
Bruce,

I will donate titanium if you want to use it. It is similiar to machining 300 series stainless steel.

It will NEVER rust.
 
If its just for looks I'd check into aluminum. I was reading about the making of "Last of the Mohecians" and it said most the knives and such were made from aluminum. There's so many different grades of it anymore. I'm not real sure but I think there a special grade made out of Oly cans......Ray
 
Well, I was gonna say use aluminum but I'd take Chuck up on his offer. Wait a minute, if it's a bronze statue, why not use bronze?


Edited to add:

Oh, sorry. "They want stainless steel." Duh.
 
http://www.OnlineMetals.com:

Stainless T-304 Annealed
Rectangle
0.5" x 2"
48" Length - $39.12


Stainless T-316 Annealed
Rectangle
0.5" x 2"
48" Length - $49.59


Bruce, I've made jewelry out of 303 or 304, I forget which, and didn't see any real problems machining. 'Course I've never tried anything sword sized...
 
I've used 316C for several stage swords. Mostly because I can get scraps free. It is a bear to work on the grinder but works OK using metal cutting blade on the side grinder, then file.
For stage use, as a last operation, I sand with 120 grit on the bevels. It picks up the light and makes it appear sharp.
Lynn
 
Thanks for the advice so far.

Chuck, thats a fantastic offer and it kills me to turn it down but the artist wants stainless. Do you have any 303? My instructor at the college says it has surphur to aid in machining. It should work good with carbide tooling.
 
Bruce,

I am way out of school here but - - you are far too good at this not to use the real thing. I say (and I can't do it yet) go with 440C or something that will make a real sword out of what you will be making as a real sword. Nothing less than that seems right to me coming from a craftsman such as you.

What'da I know?

Roger
 
Bruce and all,
The first bastard swords I made were of 440C. I never heat treated because I was told that 440C at that length was too brittle. But if you find someone who will heat treat I'll send one off. I cut the other one into small blades.
Lynn
 
Wouldn't 440C still be much more susceptible to corrosion than one of the 300's? On the other hand, I've seen a piece of D2 left out in the open air for a long time that had very little rust on it.

Bruce, you're not making a sword, you're making a sword shaped piece of art. There's no reason it has to be sharp and a lot of reasons it shouldn't. Don't think like a knifemaker on this. Think like a sculpter. Just my opinion of course.

BTW, what's it gonna look like? What style? Have any drawings?
 
440c is nice to work and wont need to be treated except to aid in corrosion resistance. The carbon is the culprit. You are right about the sword is only for display and doesnt need an edge but I will put somewhat of an edge on because Im am a knifemaker and cant make one without it. I wish Chuck Bybee had 303 stainless to donate. I still hear it will fit my needs best. It is a double edged with a full length fuller. Im using a big milling machine for this bad boy.
 
Bruce,

I have no doubt you will do it in a manner as to make a real and functioning sword. It will be no ones fault though if an oven large enough can not be found for the HT.

Roger
 
Bruce,

I can't stop thinking about your commision. It is to me important to those boys that you are helping to give notice as to their sacrifice for the preservation of our Constitution. I am a poor boy but not that poor. You pick the blade steel you prefer. Do not choose damascus or forged. I can not afford that. I will underwrite the cost. Email me with a total. I will send you a valid check for that total.

It is because I know anyone able to make those damn pistol knives can very properly honer our lost boys with a valid tool replica of their honerable responsibilty to us.

Don't let me down. I am sincere.

Roger
 
The added sulphur and phosphorus that make it easy to machine apparently make 303 rather expensive too. A piece that size on McMaster-Carr is $126.42. Of course McMaster-Carr isn't always the cheapest but they always have size you need.

Good luck, whatever you decide on. And you have to post pics when you're done. :)
 
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