What would be the best steel to us for ur first fixed blade knive.

Pa_Slasher

Pa_Slasher

Joined
Jan 10, 2012
Messages
259
I am a real noob to this whole knife making process. I read an article in a hunting mag about hunters making their own knifes, though it would be really cool so here I am. I have no tools at home per say. I am able to get some of the rough work done a my job but would like to work on it at home. Any suggestions on cheap steels to start with and or tools. I have talked to a fellow coworker that makes his own knife and he does very good work so i do have a ht to go to. Any sug would be awesome!!! By the way there are some AWESOME knife being made on this sites guys. REALLY AWESOME KNIFES!!!!!

Pa_Slasher
 
1084 steel,files,sandpaper.Read the second sticky from the top.
Stan
 
If you want a piece of 1084 and some wood for a handle to try out the recommendation, drop me a PM withj your mailing address and I'll send you a piece for free.
 
The only problem I have with 1084 for a newby is where to get heat treat, if you are going to do it yourself the old torch and oil method fine. Otherwise I suggest A2 which is a air hardening steel which can be heat treated by most commercial shops. I use Paul Bos and Texas Knivemaker.
 
There are dozens of guys on this forum who will do your 1084 HT for you, as well as several commercial HT companies.
Home HT of 1084 can be done with good results and fairly basic equipment.

There is nothing wrong with A-2 if sending the blade out for HT.
If sending the knife out, CPM-154 is also a good stainless option.
 
If doing it all yourself including heat treatment, I'd suggest O1,
simply because it 's one of the most forgiving and easy steels to HT and has prolly the most consistent results.
 
Don't let Cashen hear you saying that. LOL
parbajtor said:
If doing it all yourself including heat treatment, I'd suggest O1,
simply because it 's one of the most forgiving and easy steels to HT and has prolly the most consistent results.
Click to expand...
 
The OP has contacted me and I'll be sending him some 1084 to work with. I look forward to seeing what he does with it.
 
Awesome OP! Greg, you keep amazing me. Op, glad you took the offer. As a new maker, I can say that using a known steel has helped me know exactly what I need to do for heat treat and takes a HUGE variable out of the equation.
Plus, Greg is a great guy. He helped me too, and I hope I can pay it forward soon.
 
parbajtor said:
If doing it all yourself including heat treatment, I'd suggest O1,
simply because it 's one of the most forgiving and easy steels to HT and has prolly the most consistent results.
Click to expand...

I see this claim often, because the info states that O-1 can be quenched in almost any oil.
But, the reality is that unless you have the equipment to heat to an exact temperature, hold at that for 10 minutes....it isn''t that simple.
 
bladsmth said:
I see this claim often, because the info states that O-1 can be quenched in almost any oil.
But, the reality is that unless you have the equipment to heat to an exact temperature, hold at that for 10 minutes....it isn''t that simple.
Click to expand...

simply heat to non magnetic, note the colour, soak for 5-10 mins and quench at that colour. Or just quench at carrot orange.
Temper in an oven, three times for an hour at 200C. What could be simpler?
And even if you mess it up, you're not likely to end up with a butter knife (or two small butter knives).
That's why I reckon it's one of the most forgiving steels for HT.
and that's why the hammer-ins will usually have an abundance of it lying around.
Most noobs normally opt for the less dependable option of wanting to forge a file (because of its more "romantic/green" appeal)
 
I would use 5160. A very forgiving steel and as for heat treating, you can use canola oil with good results. Just my 2 cents.
 
I'll just say that a good read of the HT for O-1 and 5160 will show that over heating and undersoaking will adversely affect any alloy steel.
Even though the subject has been well discussed, I realize that many do the HT with a torch and a bucket of motor oil.

That does not make it a GOOD procedure to recommend to someone asking the question in the title.
 
parbajtor said:
simply heat to non magnetic, note the colour, soak for 5-10 mins and quench at that colour. Or just quench at carrot orange.
Temper in an oven, three times for an hour at 200C. What could be simpler?
And even if you mess it up, you're not likely to end up with a butter knife (or two small butter knives).
That's why I reckon it's one of the most forgiving steels for HT.
and that's why the hammer-ins will usually have an abundance of it lying around.
Most noobs normally opt for the less dependable option of wanting to forge a file (because of its more "romantic/green" appeal)
Click to expand...

Wally Hayes, Master Bladesmith ABS, also uses it in his video "Home Workshop Knifemaking" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=srF3xOmnMt0 it is a good video for and shows basic techniques. The best part is where he shows how sharp the knife is and then puts it in vise and bends it 90* without breaking :)
 
parbajtor said:
If doing it all yourself including heat treatment, I'd suggest O1,
simply because it 's one of the most forgiving and easy steels to HT and has prolly the most consistent results.
Click to expand...


um? yeah? i wont comment further.
 
I'm a noob that works with pa_slasher and I'm excited and impressed somebody would be willing to send material I will surely be checking on his work and seeing how his steel works thanks guys for helping us out!!
 
parbajtor said:
simply heat to non magnetic, note the colour, soak for 5-10 mins and quench at that colour. Or just quench at carrot orange.
Temper in an oven, three times for an hour at 200C. What could be simpler?
And even if you mess it up, you're not likely to end up with a butter knife (or two small butter knives).
That's why I reckon it's one of the most forgiving steels for HT.
and that's why the hammer-ins will usually have an abundance of it lying around.
Most noobs normally opt for the less dependable option of wanting to forge a file (because of its more "romantic/green" appeal)
Click to expand...

Easy to do, if you have an oven. Not so easy to do in a forge or with a torch, like some folks like to do. Really easy to overheat in a forge, if you try to soak for the recommended time.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top