What would be the rationale behind a light pull on a large slipjoint?

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I recently acquired a GEC #21 Bull Buster. It's a fantastic knife -- big blade, plenty of handle to work with, even with many types of gloves on. But the pull is noticeably lighter than that of its little cousin, the #71 Bullnose (last year's release).

What might be the rationale behind a lighter pull on a large work knife -- catering, perhaps, to customers who dislike "nailbreakers"? Greater ease of opening while wearing gloves?

Just curious to know what you all think.
 
I'll try to explain as it was explained to me at a young age by our scout master. He told us that we never can tell when or how we may need to open our knife. Our hands may be wet, or cold, or both. To his way of thinking, a knife with a very heavy pull was an accident waiting to happen. If we use our knives like they were designed to be used, no problem. The forces on the blade during cutting will hold open even a friction folder like an Opinel without the locking ring. Most of the times I used my Opinel, I never bothered to twist the lock ring, just relied on the friction folder dynamics, and I never got cut.

To this day, one of my favorite pocket knives is a Sardinian Resolza that is a strait friction folder. I've cleaned fish with it, cut up vegetables in the kitchen, opened mail and packages, and cut lots of twine. It doesn't even have a back spring. Nor does my Japanese Higonokami.

I for one, can't see a single reason for a heavy pull on a folding knife. If you have to rely on a heavy spring or even a blade lock to keep safe, then maybe you should not be carrying a knife?
 
Why fight the knife to open it?
The backspring's only purpose is to keep the blade in the closed position when folded, and from flopping half closed when open. When using the knife properly the cutting action forces the blade open.

Edit: Looks like J jackknife types faster than me.
 
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Yeah blade length can influence how much force is required to open the knife. I am actually not fond of strong backsprings ( hard opening knives). I don’t want them to fall open but a 5-6/10 is about perfect. I have several GEC knives that I love but will give away as I can not open them. My thumbnails fracture way too easy!that is one reason I have been carrying more modern folders for the last few years. I am now also carrying some of my traditional folders, but mostly those I can pinch open.
 
I would counter by asking what the purpose of a strong pull is on any slip joint?

As long as the blade firmly snaps into the open position, at the end of the pull, everything is fine. The strength of the pull itself is largely irrelevant, other than to ensure that the blade closes fully, and doesn’t open accidentally.
 
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- am not a fan of heavy backsprings. Generally, pocket knife is there in the pocket for ease of carrying and convenience of quick-ish use - so why fight a backspring...!?

Some guys here in UK prefer a strong back spring as they maintain it’s safer - but I’d then question they were using a slipjoint correctly ;) Maybe some fellas seldom use their slippie so prefer a stronger spring as it does actually make them feel safer. But....... using a slippie that’s in constant danger of closing on ‘em ain’t using it right imho - if so, carry a locker or fixed.

It’s all very subjective and different guys will use a slippie in different ways - big hands might prefer bigger blade while another would use smaller for just the same task.
 
I found my #71 Bullnose a pain to open even the halfstop was so solid you couldn't pass it on opening, the only knife I had a found more difficult to open was a case peanut pen blade
 
I like a good, snappy pull. Has nothing to do with it being “safe” or relying on it like a lock. I like Opinels and friction folders, too. But on a slip joint, there’s just something satisfying about a (reasonably) strong pull and good snap.

That said, I picked up two #21s from this recent run, and I wouldn’t describe the pull on either of them as light. Both similar to the #71s I have, perhaps a little easier to open thanks to the leverage of a longer blade, as GronK GronK pointed out, but not really all that different.
 
If it isn't a lockback, at some point it will inevitably close on your fingers. You want a light spring in that case, so the snap doesn't completely amputate your digits.



Joking, of course. :D
 
I like strong snap. It feels like quality to me. If it’s loose and barely pops into the well or open it feels wrong. Hence, I did not like the 43s. Beautiful but had no horsepower.

For me being able to open a blade or not has far more to do with the depth of the nail nick. I shy from Case for this. That said, once I have patina, I can pinch open 90% of blades.
 
This!! Bunch of old folks (just so you know, I'm old) buying slip joints, complaining about how tough they are to open. Most of the younger folks are buying them newfangled flippers and zombie knives and such. :)

Yes, I'm old, but I like moderns and slip joints. And I for one don't prefer slip joints to have too light a pull, either.

As my hands have gotten older and the arthritis worse I've gotten pretty handy at putting e-z open notches on my folders that will accomodate them.
A little discrete work with a dremel sanding drum can make a difficult to open knife a lot easier to use.--KV
 
Hey everyone, thanks for the replies! I've quoted and responded to some of your posts below.

I'll try to explain as it was explained to me at a young age by our scout master. He told us that we never can tell when or how we may need to open our knife. Our hands may be wet, or cold, or both. To his way of thinking, a knife with a very heavy pull was an accident waiting to happen. If we use our knives like they were designed to be used, no problem...

I for one, can't see a single reason for a heavy pull on a folding knife. If you have to rely on a heavy spring or even a blade lock to keep safe, then maybe you should not be carrying a knife?

I understand what you're saying -- it isn't so much that I "rely" on a heavy spring to keep safe; I'm not cutting with the spine of the blade. A strong back spring just feels better to me. The Bullnose was the first traditional knife I carried and used on a regular basis, and I came to appreciate the simplicity, comfortable and utilitarian handle and non-threatening (in the eyes of the general public) appearance.

But coming from carrying locking knives for years, I think it requires a little change in mindset to not think, "It's bad that I can move the blade by pressing on the spine with my thumb." It does, indeed, make sense that you should be able to open a knife with tired, cold, wet or gloved hands; on a smaller blade like the Bullnose, which provides little purchase, can be difficult under less than ideal conditions.

One factor is the blade length. A longer blade gives more leverage against the spring.

This is true.

...I am actually not fond of strong backsprings (hard opening knives). I don’t want them to fall open but a 5-6/10 is about perfect. I have several GEC knives that I love but will give away as I can not open them. My thumbnails fracture way too easy!that is one reason I have been carrying more modern folders for the last few years. I am now also carrying some of my traditional folders, but mostly those I can pinch open.

Luckily I've never broken a nail opening my Bullnose, but I admit that it takes some force. I usually do a combination nail-opening/pinch-opening -- start with the nail nick, then pinch the blade and pull it the rest of the way open. Or use the nail nick as a spot for the pad of my thumb to dig into a little bit.

I like a good, snappy pull. Has nothing to do with it being “safe” or relying on it like a lock. I like Opinels and friction folders, too. But on a slip joint, there’s just something satisfying about a (reasonably) strong pull and good snap.

That said, I picked up two #21s from this recent run, and I wouldn’t describe the pull on either of them as light. Both similar to the #71s I have, perhaps a little easier to open thanks to the leverage of a longer blade, as GronK GronK pointed out, but not really all that different.

I agree; for me, part of the appeal of a strong and snappy pull -- the authoritative click as the blade snaps into position, the feeling overcoming the back spring resistance, the sensation of "kickback" that can be felt in the knife handle as the blade opens or closes -- these are all sensorial pleasures I enjoy. They may inspire confidence for entirely non-logical reasons.

I like strong snap. It feels like quality to me. If it’s loose and barely pops into the well or open it feels wrong. Hence, I did not like the 43s. Beautiful but had no horsepower.

For me being able to open a blade or not has far more to do with the depth of the nail nick. I shy from Case for this. That said, once I have patina, I can pinch open 90% of blades.

The #43 was for the same reason a letdown for me, too. I also find a patina increases pinchability.

As my hands have gotten older and the arthritis worse I've gotten pretty handy at putting e-z open notches on my folders that will accomodate them.
A little discrete work with a dremel sanding drum can make a difficult to open knife a lot easier to use.--KV

I've seen some great-looking easy-open notches. Though I think I'd seldom need one, I have considered trying some day; I'd mostly be concerned about placing it so it doesn't interfere with my grip.
 
Luckily I've never broken a nail opening my Bullnose, but I admit that it takes some force. I usually do a combination nail-opening/pinch-opening -- start with the nail nick, then pinch the blade and pull it the rest of the way open. Or use the nail nick as a spot for the pad of my thumb to dig into a little bit.

To pinch-open a Bull Nose or Bull Buster, I like to use the pad of my thumb on the nail nick side, and the last two "sections" of my index finger lengthwise along the back of the blade, sort of nestled in the curve of the handle. (Does that make sense?) Seems to give a lot better grip than pinching with just my fingertips.

I've seen some great-looking easy-open notches. Though I think I'd seldom need one, I have considered trying some day; I'd mostly be concerned about placing it so it doesn't interfere with my grip.

I love a good EO notch, but I've seen a Bull Nose that had one added before, and it just looked goofy. Doesn't fit the pattern, in my opinion.
 
I have used these pics before, but they are very illustrative, so here they are again. The first picture is a standard half-stop tang setup, with both corners of the tang pretty sharp. This would give a hard opening pull and also hard resistance to closing with good snap.

OWsde7P.jpg


This second photo shows a custom tang setup, with the opening corner of the tang rounded off. This will give an easier and smoother opening pull, but still have just as much resistance to closing. A secondary benefit is that it won't snap closed as quickly, protecting the fingers as well as the sharpened edge from rapping the spring. I wish more production knives had this tang setup.

hwaGeCg.jpg
 
I recently acquired a GEC #21 Bull Buster. It's a fantastic knife -- big blade, plenty of handle to work with, even with many types of gloves on. But the pull is noticeably lighter than that of its little cousin, the #71 Bullnose (last year's release).

What might be the rationale behind a lighter pull on a large work knife -- catering, perhaps, to customers who dislike "nailbreakers"? Greater ease of opening while wearing gloves?

Just curious to know what you all think.

Could be because many people complained of a hard pull on the last run of the #71 Bull Nose knives so GEC decided to make the pull of this new run of #21 Bull Buster a bit lighter.
 
if its a lock back, but that is really the only experience I have with it. I have/had several larger traditionals that had light/heavy pulls but because of a lock. the lock tension has varied between knives depending on the location of the lock.
 
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