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what's a good beginner's bow?
- Thread starter SkinnyJoe
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The best way to find a bow that is right for you is to go to an archery or outdoors shop, and try out a bunch of different bows. Your going to need to be "fitted" for the proper draw length, as well as what draw weight is good for you. Once those two things are determined, then you can begin looking through bows that fit those criteria.
for instance, I'm ~6'. I shoot a bow with a 29" draw length (would be an inch or so longer, but I use a release), and somewhere around a 60 lb. draw weight (although I could probably do 70).
A place such as Cabela's or Bass Pro would work to find a bow, though the best place to go would be a dedicated archery shop.
for instance, I'm ~6'. I shoot a bow with a 29" draw length (would be an inch or so longer, but I use a release), and somewhere around a 60 lb. draw weight (although I could probably do 70).
A place such as Cabela's or Bass Pro would work to find a bow, though the best place to go would be a dedicated archery shop.
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- Dec 30, 2008
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Most definately. I would actually recommend first shooting a recurve. Get down instinctive shooting, good form and a better understanding of archery and judging yardages. Compound bows, although take some skill can make you kind of forget where the roots of archery are. I shot traditional for years, then went to compound. Big difference. And i'm glad i had the traditional background.
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For a starter bow - forget the training wheels and learn how to shoot a bow (and have fun doing it). In a heartbeat, I'd get a used Bear Grizzly recurve ( maybe 45-50# draw weight ) on e-bay. These are low on cost and sky high on quality and utility.
You could conceivably shoot and hunt with this bow the rest of your life (that's plenty bow for everything you would be likely to hunt). There is very little to fiddle with on a recurve (or longbow) as opposed to a compound where you need to have perfectly adjusted:
* sights (if you use them - most do)
* peep (if you use them - most do)
* arrow rest (many have moving parts)
* stabilizer (if you use one)
* upper limb / lower limb
* cable has to be set for your draw length
* let off (if adjustable)
... and so on. Some of those items can be knocked out of true during normal use (I consider hiking around in the brush to be normal use, fwiw). On your recurve, assume you work to shoot instinctively, you have a brace hight to mess with (won't get changed by bumping the bow into a tree) and arrows which need to be properly spined (same holds true for compound).
Nothing personal against compounds - they can be real tack drivers - but for a first bow. you ought to consider a simple *bow*.
You could conceivably shoot and hunt with this bow the rest of your life (that's plenty bow for everything you would be likely to hunt). There is very little to fiddle with on a recurve (or longbow) as opposed to a compound where you need to have perfectly adjusted:
* sights (if you use them - most do)
* peep (if you use them - most do)
* arrow rest (many have moving parts)
* stabilizer (if you use one)
* upper limb / lower limb
* cable has to be set for your draw length
* let off (if adjustable)
... and so on. Some of those items can be knocked out of true during normal use (I consider hiking around in the brush to be normal use, fwiw). On your recurve, assume you work to shoot instinctively, you have a brace hight to mess with (won't get changed by bumping the bow into a tree) and arrows which need to be properly spined (same holds true for compound).
Nothing personal against compounds - they can be real tack drivers - but for a first bow. you ought to consider a simple *bow*.
Yes, the recurves do have that elegance that no compound can match. Plus, I imagine they offer a better workout for the same "poundage".
I am always reminded of Mongolian raiders for some reason..
P.S. the recurves on cabela's site, they seem to have that takedown feature, which doesn't strike me as traditional. Not to mention that those big screws are an eye-sore. Any solid (single-piece) bows to consider?
I am always reminded of Mongolian raiders for some reason..
P.S. the recurves on cabela's site, they seem to have that takedown feature, which doesn't strike me as traditional. Not to mention that those big screws are an eye-sore. Any solid (single-piece) bows to consider?
Last edited:
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The Bear Grizzly is a one piece. Bear has a number of great models but you might have the easiest time finding a used Grizzly for not much. If Bear doesn't float your boat, you could do a heck of a lot worse than a Martin (or Damon Howatt - if you can find one) Hunter.
Alternatively, if you want a great custom recurve for not a ton of cash, check out http://www.recurves.com/ - the Chek-Mate Falcon is very well respected.
Alternatively, if you want a great custom recurve for not a ton of cash, check out http://www.recurves.com/ - the Chek-Mate Falcon is very well respected.
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If you buy a production one, it will almost certainly specify some number of pounds (45, for instance) at 28 inches (the standard draw length). Somewhere on the riser, you would likely see this marked like 45@28. If you have an unusually short or long draw, then a custom (like the ChekMate) might be a better option. If you're just talking an inch or two though, your 45# bow is more like a 42 or 43 @ 27 inches or 47 or 48 at 29 inches.
If you choose a standard length bow like the Grizzly, then a slight over or under draw isn't really a big deal. If, on the other hand, you have a super long draw - 31 more and go with a really short bow like a Bear Kodiak Magnum, you may experience some string pinch. On the other hand, if you have a short draw, something like a K-Mag would be wonderful - smaller, lighter, more maneuverable, etc.
Also - since you're interested, longbows are worth looking at. Many traditional archers like them better than recurves and there are some good longbow options out there as well. The Bear Montana is a great production one for not too much cash. Martin makes a nice one that costs a bit more and Howard Hill Archery makes a beautiful one for a reasonable price. That's what I shoot but recurves are easier to find for a reasonable price and easier to sell if you decide they aren't for you.
Here's my Howard Hill Halfbreed (60@29) with a snuffed groundhog from last year...
This is my son with his Bear Kodiak Magnum (think that was his 45@28 one - he has another that's 55@28) and his first deer...
Honestly, he's too tall and has too long a draw for the K-Mag but he's shot it since he was pretty young and is very good with it.
If you choose a standard length bow like the Grizzly, then a slight over or under draw isn't really a big deal. If, on the other hand, you have a super long draw - 31 more and go with a really short bow like a Bear Kodiak Magnum, you may experience some string pinch. On the other hand, if you have a short draw, something like a K-Mag would be wonderful - smaller, lighter, more maneuverable, etc.
Also - since you're interested, longbows are worth looking at. Many traditional archers like them better than recurves and there are some good longbow options out there as well. The Bear Montana is a great production one for not too much cash. Martin makes a nice one that costs a bit more and Howard Hill Archery makes a beautiful one for a reasonable price. That's what I shoot but recurves are easier to find for a reasonable price and easier to sell if you decide they aren't for you.
Here's my Howard Hill Halfbreed (60@29) with a snuffed groundhog from last year...
This is my son with his Bear Kodiak Magnum (think that was his 45@28 one - he has another that's 55@28) and his first deer...
Honestly, he's too tall and has too long a draw for the K-Mag but he's shot it since he was pretty young and is very good with it.