whats the best oil for my knife

spotted-elk

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I live in denver an it really dry an was wondering if the oil makes a difference if its really dry an whats a good oil to use.
I dont use my knives alot just for edc use i dont no if that makes a difference either
 
Greetings Spotted-elk: Since you didn't indicate what type of knife and what type of steel you carry for your EDC, and whether your primary concern is lubrication, rust prevention, resistance to dust adhesion, smoothness of operation frequency/ease of application or all of the above, the following is a generic response and ONLY my personal opinion. My limited experience experimenting with different knife lubricants has not disclosed any one overall winner. Different locks, pivots, steels, metal finishes, blade retention designs and the environment in which the knife is used apparently benefit most from different lubricants, sometimes utilized on the SAME knife. I have had acceptable results by using a dry lube on the Axis lock bar and it's liner races to reduce the adhesion of foreign material in these open areas of the mechanism. A moisture displacing thin film lube on the Omega springs to prevents corrosion. A Teflon based medium viscosity liquid lube on the blade pivot to smooth overall opening and closing. Ball detents seem to benefit most from a teflon based light grease, especially when the blade contact area is not smooth steel. Wide tolerances in friction areas get thick lube ~ narrow tolerances get thin lube. Sebenza bushings and washers use thin teflon grease. IKBS pivots come packed in a medium weight petroleum based grease. Benchmade uses their proprietary BlueLube. Specific lubricants for specific applications. Whatever you choose, there is no substitute for frequent maintenance. On the other hand many people have successfully maintained their knives using just mineral oil or whatever else was at hand. As Alberta Ed suggested, BreakFree is a good start. It apparently depends on your level of obsession. OldDude1
 
Umm...first, ditto what OldDude1 said. Sounds like he knows what he's talking about.:thumbup:, but for a nice all purpose lube/cleaner/rust inhibitor for long term storage, I like to use Ballistol. It's inexpensive, and works great. Non-carcinogenic, biodegradable, and won't gum up over time. It's non-toxic by OSHA standards, but I would still wipe a blade clean before any food prep, then reapply for storage. You can find the MSDS online. I wipe down my high carbon blades before storage, and I just used it to completely clean my EDC folder. I highly recommend it!:thumbup:
 
Also check out Tri-Flow. It's truly fantastic, a lot of cyclists specifically recommend Tri Flow for hard use (100+mi a week). It is made to hold up.
 
Because I'm old fashioned I use sewing machine oil. Been using it for a long time with no problems. The stuff I use was made by a German company for 50 or so years, but has been discontinued. Lucky I have a couple quarts. Tri- flow seems like a good choice as well, since it was the replacement when the oil I use was discontinued.
 
Also check out Tri-Flow. It's truly fantastic, a lot of cyclists specifically recommend Tri Flow for hard use (100+mi a week). It is made to hold up.

+1 for Tri-Flow
One of the best that I have come across for the pivot area.
Non stainless blades I wipe down with mineral oil. Also use it on kitchen knives if carbon steel.
 
Because I'm old fashioned I use sewing machine oil. Been using it for a long time with no problems. The stuff I use was made by a German company for 50 or so years, but has been discontinued. Lucky I have a couple quarts. Tri- flow seems like a good choice as well, since it was the replacement when the oil I use was discontinued.

I've found most sewing machine oil to be a variant of mineral oil.
Is it thick or thin? Flow quickly or slowly? Sticky or smooth?
 
I use mineral oil from the drug store for most of my knives (and I live only a couple of miles from the beach). I have had no corrosion on carbon steel blades so treated.

The only knife that has not responded properly to that is my Native III, which was very hard to open. I used mineral oil and had no improvement. I subsequently tried the lubricant I use on my bicycle chain, "rock-N- roll chain lubricant, gold". It freed that puppy up like nothing else.

But for all my other blades, I use mineral oil.
 
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