What's the deal with Steel?

VultureParade

VultureParade

Joined
Apr 25, 2003
Messages
369
All these different steels are confusing the heck out of me. Is M2 steel good? I've read some people complain about it and some people say its the way to go. What steel should I be looking for in a knife?
 
It depends on what kind of knife it is, where you live, how much you want to pay, what you are going to do with it, when you are going to carry it, etc. For a wet or humid environment you probably want some kind of stainless steel, and if you are in a dryer environment and don't take the knife running or anything like that than a non-stainless steel like M2 will probably do you well.

It's easy to get confused in the beginning, after reading the forum and some other websites you should get the hang of things. There are cheaper steels and more expensive ones. For the most part, you will get fancier steels like S30V (stainless) in more expensive knives, whereas less fancy ones like 420HC, 440C, and AUS8 will be in less expensive knives. There are some exceptions to this rule, but for the most part it it holds true.

Just remember that the steel is not the most important thing. The design is at least, if not more important. A badly designed knife in S30V (fancy) is no better than the best knife design in 420J2 (crappy)
 
Thanks James, that helps to clear it up a bit :)

A lot of Benchmade knives have a choice between 154CM steel and M2 steel. I'm planning on edc this knife and it may be worn in a sheath under my shirt while I run, hike, etc.

I also live in New Jersey, which is mostly mild but it can get hot and sticky in the summer.

Should I go with the 154 or the M2? Or do they both have basically the same properties and M2 is just harder?
 
A new guy! With questions! Welcome to Bladeforums! :D

We have a FAQ here with information on knife basics http://www.bladeforums.com/features/faqs.shtml so you can check out the essays on Blade Geometry, Liner Locks, Multi-Tools, Plain vs. Serrated Edges, Knife Sharpening, Steel Types, and Straight Razors.

That should give you a head start, and the deeper discussions will make more sense. Remember, though, that how well a knife works has to do with a lot of factors: does the handle fit your grip, is the blade the right size and shape for the job, is the steel right for the job, is it properly heat-treated, are you using it right?

You've got a lot of fun ahead of you! Glad to have you here!
 
I know where New Jersey is! Maybe you can get together with us at the NJKCA sometime. New members are always welcome. (Click on the last line of my signature.)

M-2 is going to rust without some care, but it isn't hard to give it that care. I keep a small bottle of food grade mineral oil on my kitchen counter, and a drop of it rubbed on a blade, maybe a bit dripped into the pivot area, too, is a big help.

On the other hand, 154-CM and its Japanese twin ATS-34 have been around a while. They are stainless steels that perform quite well. Emerson and Benchmade use them a lot. I'd say you would do fine with the 154-CM. You won't need a black coating on the blade.
 
I prefer M2 as it is tougher than 154CM and with a BT2 coating ought to resist rust fairly well. Even 154CM will rust...

I found M2 easier to sharpen also and it holds a better edge for me, than 154CM. Both are great steels though.
 
The coating doesn't protect the edge, and for the most part thats what needs to be protected the most.
 
I am partial to M2. I have used it extensively at the ocean. I generally use Tuff Cloth for protection. After exposure at the ocean, I just clean with water and dry completely. When I get home - back to the Tuff Cloth. I have not had any problems with rust.
 
db said:
The coating doesn't protect the edge, and for the most part thats what needs to be protected the most.
Click to expand...

Actually it does, the teflon coating protects the steel even when removed due to some kind of bonding process. At least thats what has been said before. :)
 
Umm, are you talking about when the black rubs off the blade? If so I beleive that is correct because there is more than 1 level to the coating or something. But the edge and edge bevel grinds off all of the coating and is unprotected. If someone is claming the coating protects bare steel after it's totally removed, I don't beleive it for a sec.
 
VultureParade,

M2 steel, especially when coated with BT2 and as heat-treated by Benchmade, is a better choice than 154CM in terms of toughness and edge-retention. As far as low-chrome (non-stainless/rustfull/whateva) steels go, it's pretty brittle, but it's tougher and harder than 154CM as heat-treated by Benchmade and tougher than D2 as heat-treated by Benchmade. So, if you were looking to be either a 710 or 710HS, the 710HS is a better deal. If you're always on the coast and rust is a concern, go buy some mineral oil (as Esav recommended). You'll probably find your best bet in the pharmacy's laxative aisle.
 
By the way - 154CM is not completely corrosion resistant and in ocean enviroment will need attention also as well as CPM S30V and almost all steels (exept may be H1). It is 18-8 almost completely corrosion resistant - all cookware made out of it.
So far I have no problem sharpening M2 with Sharpmaker and have no corrosion on it - I use Tuf-Close time to time.
Thanks, Vassili.
 
IMO the best deal in a great design and steel is the Spyderco Native.S30V and can be had for under 50.00.
 
You have to clean it quickly after using (cutting fruits) if you can´t , like on a trip, 154CM is a bit easier to maintaine.

I use a 154CM from BM and am not disapointed about it.

So, if you are sure you can keep it clean after using ( wearing T-shirts to whip it clean and leave the silky shirt at home :D ) M2 will be nice for sure.
 
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