What's the deal with this axe?

K

KeithRobicheux

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Apr 4, 2014
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I bought this axe on ebay because I like axes. I don't know anything about it. Does anyone have any knowledge related to this axe?
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It's a hatchet size head, but it's pretty chunky, and I think it'll chop stuff. I know American axes have been well cataloged, but I can't find any information on this axe. I think it looks Japanese. Any info would be appreciated.
 
It's beautiful i know that! There's something so very pleasing about an elegant tool. Smooth curves and bad ass all rolled into one. Same reason i like knives.
 
This is Japanese, a carving axe and for carpentry, woodworking broadly, so not used primarily to split your firewood though in a pinch I guess you could do that. It looks like it may be laminated with three pieces rather than having an in-set edge steel, both techniques used in forging these axes. These are handled with Japanese White oak and the handles are shouldered then tapered, swelling towards the bottom end slightly. An iron wedge is used set near the front or back edge at a right angle to the length of the eye and left protruding so it can be hammered further in if the head loosens. It's standard that the heads are bulky like that. So the deal is, it's a nice axe, very nice.
 
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That chart is great! I've tried online sources to translate the kanji, but no luck yet. I'm really no liking the "traditional" way they attach these to the handles, with the metal wedge sideways and sticking out, so I'm just going to handle it "American" style. I wonder if my exotic hardwood store could find some Japanese white oak...
Thanks for the replies. I'll post if I get that translation
 
KeithRobicheux said:
I wonder if my exotic hardwood store could find some Japanese white oak...
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I can understand the desire to make it a "real" Japanese axe, but Japanese White Oak is hard to find, expensive, and though it has slightly different properties than American Oak it is not superior. Hickory or sometimes Ash are better woods for tool handles, which is my admittedly biased opinion. Now if you'll excuse me, I need to go find my asbestos shorts before I get flamed by the dudes who paid $150 for a White Oak bokken from Japan.
 
Something to consider is Japanese maple. Grown in the U.S! It's hard and looks a lot like native hard maple and makes a good haft if a tad stiff. Either that or buy some American white oak and write in Japanese the word Japanese. Viola! Japanese white oak!
 
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I can by no means read Kanji but the top mark looks like:
金 - Gold
The bottom one might have "log" built into it but I don't understand how the symbols get combined from single words to ideas or compound descriptions.
You probably need someone who reads Japanese.
Regardless, "Gold" usually is good :thumbsup:
 
We don't have to go much into subjectivities like tastes and preferences, strictly individual matters of choice. I would be cautious though when it comes to an alternative way of mounting because this is built into the construction itself,(configuration of the eye), also has implications for use and maintenance, but that should become apparent during the process. What happens below the connection, also not such a general concern and it's certain that variations exist, for better or worse. Luckily it's hatchet sized giving more latitude in the choice of wood, though better not to be overly presumptuous in making judgements about what wood is "good" or not, instead sticking with the particular conditions at hand.
Like Agent, not having much grasp of the language, I can't read what's there but these are commonly phrases of good will or harmony like, "Beautiful peaceful garden", or "Golden sun setting over misty forest", I don't know, just making it up as I go along. It doesn't look to me like a signature indicating who the smid was.
 
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The writing looks stamped, usually Japanese characters seemed to be hand engraved?
 
I have had a few years Japanese. Can't even hazard a guess on the maker's mark. But having a stamped head is, from what I gather, indicative of a nicer Japanese hand axe than the Garrett Wade and its ilk.
 
Once more Houtzager misrepresents. The eye of almost any Japanese axe is geometric in form, typically trapezoidal, looking down from the top. In profile top to bottom a not subtle hour-glass shape with a narrowing through the center flaring at the opening on top, front to back, its clear intent to be wedged perpendicular to the long sides. Looking at a cross-section of the eye from the front view, sides taper, top narrower, bottom wider but are straight having no central bulge. That's why it is relatively easy to get a precision fit using a plane, one of the nice features of handeling Japanese axes and why a parallel wedge while it will spread the handle at the opening, gets pinched off there and will not exert pressure further down.
Were it from a renown smid then chances are there would be a name hand engraved it's true but it should be obvious that as with all things, Japanese axes also come in a wide range from hand made in the true sense to factory produced with questionable materials and also more or less embellishment with stampings or otherwise.
The true test of the composition of the bit will be when the bevel is sharpened. I can't imagine how you would effectively do this with grinding machines - and on the chance that it is hand made this could risk a de-lamination - or filing since the bevels are broad and flat so as Togotogi has shown, stones are the preferred way to go at it. On the initial grinding, say with a 1000 grit water stone the line of the different steels will be clear along the bevel.
 
Keven you show all to clearly the extent of your knowledge of the topic, even going as far as to pass on this incredibly interesting and relevant bit of Kanji trivia. But you might want to explain bringing other completely unrelated subject matter into the question.
( I just love watching you dig yourself into these ever deepening holes, time after time, so please continue).
 
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