What's the ideal use for 1075/1080?

[Daniel Koster]

If I wanted to get the most out of some 1075/1080....What kind of knife would be the best use of this steel?

What cutting application best?

What size/thickness/width/length?

What kind of heat-treat?

What finish?

 

[B . Buxton]

Darn Daniel, what? what ? what? would you like me to just come down and make the knife for you? Just kidding.
I use 1080 in most of my damascus mixes and some non damascus knives, heat treats like 1084 and makes an excellent knife, or tomahawk.

Bill

 

[Daniel Koster]

no visitor was ever turned away from my shop....by me, anyway...some have run away because of the mess/smell...!!


I've used 1080 before....just wondering what the optimal use would be.


I like the damascus idea...but what about the plain steel?


It's not as high carbon as 1095, so edge-holding would not be it's optimal use, (though still good).

It's not technically medium-carbon, like 1050/60, so it's not the optimal steel for longer blades requiring toughness and a touch of flexibility (but not necessarily needing edge-holding)


So, what does it do best?

 

[Alpha Knife Supply]

It's not as high carbon as 1095, so edge-holding would not be it's optimal use, (though still good).

Assuming "perfect" heat treat 1095 would hold an edge longer.

Compare the TT curves. More than 2 seconds for 1080 vs less than a second for 1095. How difficult will it be to do a "perfect" heat treat?

 

[Don Hanson III]

I use 1080 in a lot of my damascus, etches dark and is a good match with 15N20. I prefer 1086M W1 and W2 for my straight carbon blades.

1075/1080 should work good for a large blade if you're sure that's what you have

 

[JCaswell]

It's not as high carbon as 1095, so edge-holding would not be it's optimal use, (though still good).

It's not technically medium-carbon, like 1050/60, so it's not the optimal steel for longer blades requiring toughness and a touch of flexibility (but not necessarily needing edge-holding)

1075 makes good springs (I've made lots of gunsprings with it). Along with 5160, it's a prefered material for monosteel swords that require flexability (such as Medeival European broadsword vs. Japanese sword). Some top monosteel sword makers I've talked with frequently use it, especailly for prototypes.
As was mentioned, the isothermal transformation curve for 1095 demonstrates that a full hardening is really a matter of theory since you cant quench it fast enough, at least not with any methods most of us have access to.
Some people love using 1095 and have good results. For damascus, I flat out get better performance with 1075-1084 and 15N20 than with any other combination I've tried.

 

[Daniel Koster]

Yes, Don...I will be making a large chopper (think khukuri...) and normally I'd use 5160, but I want a nice quenchline and I've pretty good results with my 1080 in kitchen knives...just wondered if it would be ok for a 1/4" chopper...or if I'm forcing it...

 

[Don Hanson III]

Yes, Don...I will be making a large chopper (think khukuri...) and normally I'd use 5160, but I want a nice quenchline and I've pretty good results with my 1080 in kitchen knives...just wondered if it would be ok for a 1/4" chopper...or if I'm forcing it...

Daniel, it'll be fine for a large chopper.

 

[brash]

My understanding is that typical Japanese steel used in kitchen knives is something close to 1080. Clad it in iron and make some sushi knives.