What's the right balance on a chef knife?

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Jan 4, 2016
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I posted this in the kitchen knife sub forum, but thought I'd try here, too...

What is considered the proper balance point for a 6-7" chef knife.

I'm used to hunting and field knives where makers strive to balance them right at the front finger pocket, at the bolster.

What is suitable for a chef knife?

Thanks in advance,

TR
 
A chef’s knife is usually bigger than 6-7 inches, they are between 8-10 inches.

Smaller ones are called petite chefs or pettys.

It will be difficult to get a good balance point on a smaller chefs knife. A good balance point is around the heel +/- depending on personal preference.

Hoss
 
The correct balance point is very much a personal preference. Some customers don’t care and some are very specific about where they want it, and they will tell you.

Most guys I know and sell to, like larger and longer knives and they like the balance point just slightly forward of the heel at the pinch grip point.

they generally prefer the weight to be blade heavy

as Devin mentioned for smaller knives.... you may want to use lighter weight or stabilized wood to help with the balance.

Personally I sell very few knives in the 6-7 inch range, although I personally like them.
 
Petty knives are quite popular with the ladies in my own experience. In the 5-5.5" range with just enough knuckle clearance. Lots of home cooks are intimidated by large blades.
 
i make a 6" mine chef that sells well and is really handy for small meal prep but hoss is spot on for full size chef knives being 8-10 inch long i shoot for ballance point right at the pinch grip poiont making for a lively easy to maneuver blade
 
I would say that the simplest balance test is to grip the knife in a pinch grip. Keeping your thumb and forefinger where they hold the knife, release your other fingers from the handle. The knife will show if it is blade heavy or handle heavy for your hand and grip. As far as balancing it on a finger on a wa handled blade like the ones you show, I would place the finger in alignment with the vertical heel line … which is probably where your fingers will be in a pinch grip.
 
Personally I sell very few knives in the 6-7 inch range, although I personally like them
It is interesting you would say this. My understanding of the creation/evolution of todays western “chefs knife” is that it goes back to the restaurant “revolution” started by Escoffier, and was created as an all-in-one tool (fine work with the tip, chopping with the heel, and long enough for slicing). Back them, as it is today, chefs did not have a lot of money for many knives. My first knife was/is a chefs knife, but these days i very, very rarely reach for it (pretty much only when i need the sheer length). I think for professional chefs it is still a viable/useful design, but is way overkill for the home. Yet it is still marketed in the stores as “the” knife to have. Oh, could we change that market. (Sounds like some of you are?). Fwiw, on the balance issue, i personally find that the smaller the blade, the lighter the overall weight, and the less critical the balance point... but if you do want to find balance, i think Hoss is spot on in terms of handle materials. For example i have a (japanese made) 6” petty (R2 steel) with a 5” magnolia handle. It balances right at the heel. Magnolia is roghly equivalent to what, poplar, here? Very light. If you were to use any of the”nicer” (ie heavier) woods, that would definitely drive the balance point into the handle. On the other hand, this knife is almost TOO light overall ... so i am not sure which is the best approach (other than to appeal to the users stated preference)? I have several wedding present knives to make, two ofwhich i think now will be pettys. My wife will object strongly if i dont use nice wood (likely dyed stabilized spalted or burl). I will try to remember to comment here on “feel” and balance when done...
 
Thanks everyone for the replies. I am planning to target at the heel as close as I can (the little one will almost certainly be handle heavy).

These handles are going to be frame-style construction with ironwood slabs. I have to think that (ironwood) is going to make it hard to get the balance point very far forward of the front of the handle. We shall see. These blades have a long distal taper beginning at the tang, so that will make things harder still. I suppose these were designed for some light bamboo handles, possibly. It will take some experimenting.
 
Thanks everyone for the replies. I am planning to target at the heel as close as I can (the little one will almost certainly be handle heavy).

These handles are going to be frame-style construction with ironwood slabs. I have to think that (ironwood) is going to make it hard to get the balance point very far forward of the front of the handle. We shall see. These blades have a long distal taper beginning at the tang, so that will make things harder still. I suppose these were designed for some light bamboo handles, possibly. It will take some experimenting.
I make & sell many 4.25”-7” Petty to Asian Chef, to cover the sizes you have showed and my balance point it just slightly forward of the handle making them neutral or just slightly blade heavy at the index finger. Most “Merican” home lady cooks & men for that matter in my experience, that just enjoy cooking at home don’t use pinch grip & have no idea what it means nor do they care, since they didn’t go to “Chef school”.. They actually just like a comfortable handle Thats neutral or just slightly blade heavy..
 
I have to agree with Rhino... most folks using a blade under 7" don't really care where the balance is as long as it isn't handle heavy.

That is why I say to hold it like you use it and then retain the knife with only the thumb and forefinger by lifting the other three fingers. This will show the approximate balance for your grip style.
 
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