What's the use of truncating?

D

dogstar

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Jan 23, 2011
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By truncating, I mean holding the knife cross grain and batoning it to squarely cross cut a stick. When do you need to cut a stick to a precise length or have a square ends? Bow drill? I'm also wondering what size stick is used. I guess that depends on the application.

I know this is sometimes done in testing, I'm just looking for a bushcraft application.
 
I often use this method to clear little stubs of knots off a piece of wood. For example when finishing the bow, you want to remove any protrusions that might interfere with your hold or the string. Also do this wile prepping wood for fire with a knife, much like you would do limbing with an axe. Makes it easier to position wood either in a stack or on the fire.
 
I can't say that I've done that the whole way through a piece of wood. But, I've done it when notching traps. I've never used the method for a bow drill, though -- I usually just cut around the diameter of the stick until I get to the desired depth and then snap the stick, or whittle around the diameter until the stick is thin enough to snap with some degree of accuracy.

I can see where it would be useful, but only certain applications; like having to fell a young tree (about 3" in diameter) for shelter purposes. For the most part I think it's a demonstrational thing.
 
A photo of truncating from Wood Trekker blog:
108.JPG


Thanks for your replies
 
Not sure it has much use apart from demonstrating the toughness of an edge. Splitting wood often only demonstrates the grind angle, thickness of the blade and cellular adhesion (a wedge doesn't need to be that sharp), cutting cross grain proves the ability to remain sharp.
 
What's the use of truncating?
I'd say nothing if you aren't making cabinets, I'd say there aren't many things a square cut stick can do a sideway-cut stick can't. Maybe for making traps, but even then I'd probably do the big job along grains and then carve it into shape.
Also loosening grains before starting make it easier to cut cross grain, like when cutting standing tree with an axe: started it downward along grain, then cross grain to clear the chips.
 
KEmSAT-Survival said:
I usually just cut around the diameter of the stick until I get to the desired depth and then snap the stick, or whittle around the diameter until the stick is thin enough to snap with some degree of accuracy.
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I thought that was what truncating was. As for a square cut stick, I have no use for it whatsoever.
 
Shotgun>>

Have no idea. Then again, I didn't know there were proper names for a lot of the crap I do!

Had no idea using a knife like a wedge to start a split in a piece of wood was called "batoning" until I came here!

Us silly country people and our silly country ways...
 
Yeah as someone already said the only use I can think of is when notching !
 
Making tent pegs, so you have a square end to pound on with the butt of a knife/axe/hatchet.
dscn0493q.jpg
 
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I've seen videos from Ray Mears and IAwoodsman, who purposely make tent pegs without squared ends because they tend to mushroom when pounded. They put a taper on the end to avoid this.
 
I make them when camping on rocky soil, or in a campsite with packed dirt that bends my aluminum pegs, and have no problems-just use a hardwood.
These were cut with a SAK saw:
imgp3064.jpg

They're single use items, so even if they did mushroom, who cares?
 
Yeah, you're right. They are easy enough to make. Mears fire hardened his, so I think he was thinking of keeping them for a while.
 
dogstar said:
By truncating, I mean holding the knife cross grain and batoning it to squarely cross cut a stick. When do you need to cut a stick to a precise length or have a square ends? Bow drill? I'm also wondering what size stick is used. I guess that depends on the application.

I know this is sometimes done in testing, I'm just looking for a bushcraft application.
Click to expand...

It is a good way to do small square notches like in figure four traps, and a technique for being able to do tasks with a small knife, when it's the only tool you have, that would normally be done with a larger tool. One example here...

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/866675-Hiking-Buddy-In-It-s-Element


.
 
I don't know why someone would need to do that but I think chopping would damage an edge much quicker than batoning though like that since of the glancing blows. That being said I think that would be extra hard on a knife like a mora though. Pretty tough I imagine doing cross grain batoning.
 
dogstar said:
Yeah, you're right. They are easy enough to make. Mears fire hardened his, so I think he was thinking of keeping them for a while......
Click to expand...

This might be applicable if he showed that he spent an extended time outdoors (without he's film crew :D ).

But then again, considering where he is, he might just find himself using wood that couldn't really be classed as hardwood and therefore, feels the need to "season" it to make it harder than what it is when it's green. :D




Kind regards
Mick :D
 
Good question. Off the top of my head: I've used it to get the perfect taughtness on a tarp, for a stick. Also, to get a prettier lean to and prevent those pokey sharp ends from sticking out when I'm finishing up the shelter. Trap making of course, especially with a paiute dead fall, and making three even rabbit sticks. Making plugs and bobbers, willow whistles, and wedges.
 
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