What's the word on CPM S110V?

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Jan 13, 2009
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I haven't seen much talk about this new steel. The only knife that I've seen it in is the Kershaw Shallot. From the limited amount of reading that I've been able to find on it, S110V offers better corrosion and wear resistance than S90V. The only con seems to be it would be quite a chore to sharpen.

So who out there has got to use this steel and how does it perform?

Thanks
 
Crucible powder stainless tool steel. I won't say cold work, as it looks like it would have some red hardness. Very high carbide, at near 22%, with a lot of them being big "devil worshipping" ( sorry Thom, had to steal it) vanadium, and other very hard, mean wear resistant stubborn type carbides.

Not a huge knife chopping steel. Probably expensive to buy. IIRC, Kershaw runs it from RC60-62.

Without question, a super steel with wear resistance, abrasion resistance that's nothing short of amazing. I love the stuff and hope to see more of it, hopefully in a blur, or some other nice Kershaw sprint.

It can be done with ceramic, but diamond sharpening gear will save you a little time.

Most likely the most wear resistant stainless steel on the market anywhere I'm aware of currently in production knives.

Not likely to ever be a big, imported, box store type knife. Get some while you can! Joe
 
First, hello to the group. I have posted in the Kershaw subforum, but not here, so "hi" to everyone. I have spent a lot of time reading the forums here, and just like all the forums on every subject (I participate in a few) people can get offended easily.

If I am not respectful enough of someone's favorite knife, manufacturer or model, I apologize in advance.

Knives are tools to me, and I work 'em hard. I have been in construction for almost 35 years, and my knives have to fill a lot of tasks during the day. I appreciate a pretty knife and have a couple, but mine for the most part are users. Like most here, I have the standard shoe box with Case, Puma, Benchmade, Queen, Kabar, Browning, etc. All of them (except the tiny little Kershaw I keep to remove splinters and cut my cigars) are job site (and some camping and hunting) tested.

Generally speaking, my knives cut reinforced nylon strapping tape, "trim" boards, scrape, cut, slice, and punch holes into things I need to have in operation in a hurry. I know that some of the things I do with my knives are borderline abuse, but since I think of them as tools, sometimes they have to go above and beyond expectations.

This brings me to the Shallot 110V. I absolutely can't say enough good things about this knife and about the steel. The knife lays flat enough that I can put it in my jeans AND put on my tool bags without any discomfort. I have only had it a month or so, but so far no rusting, which is huge for me since I sweat like a pig. I have tried a lot of different steels but I always wind up with AUS6 or 8, for no other reason than the fact they don't rust in my pocket. Some of the AUS8s aren't bad, but the AUS6 isn't good except for my pen knife.

The real corrosion test for me and the 110V will be when the thermometer hits the 100 degree mark, which it does every year here in South Texas. Usually for 2 -3 months at a time. Then I will have definitive proof of the steel's corrosion resistance.

The edge holding of this knife is incredible. Actually, almost unbelievable. I reprofiled the edge as it was not as adept at slicing materials as I wanted it to be, and it has made this my favorite EDC. It was sharpened by me once when I got it, and then after only touched up after I dropped it on a concrete slab and it managed to hit the cutting edge right on the belly. No damage to the knife, it just rolled the edge over.

You will find the S110V blade to be thicker than that of the other Shallots in the line, why I don't know. But, I love the thicker blade. Since it keeps the overall dimension and appearance of the Shallot line, the thicker blade allows you to put a double bevel on the edge without getting too thin behind the cutting edge.

I started the reprofile with my large chef's diamond hone. I buzzed the steel right off. Talking to a friend of mine that makes knives, he told me to try the Lansky sharpener I have on the blade.
Roger at knifeworks told me the same thing. It worked like a champ.

I reprofiled with the coarse stone. Cleaned up the edges through the next grits, and the stopped at the fine stone, which I believe is 600 grit. This steel is so hard the 600 polishes it nicely. I polished the very edge with a 1200 grit ceramic, and the steel looks like it hair sized mirror stripe on the edge.

Total time to reprofile on the Lansky including final edge with ceramics was a little under an hour. Well worth the investment or time as I now know two things: 1) it isn't hard to sharpen and 2) I can see how the edge I like performs on this knife.

So far, I couldn't be happier. In fact, I will be buying another one just like this next week to keep aside when this one sprouts legs, or is finally torn up. I hope it isn't for a long time. I have a hard time finding a knife I really like, but this one is a winner.

Robert
 
Funnily enough for me, the handle had rust pits (spots or dots call them what you will) but the blade is ok?!?! Fine enough since it's a user for me and not a safe queen.

Haven't pushed it too far yet, still haven't experienced it's 'super' qualities just yet but I expect it will perform nicely :)
 
First, hello to the group. I have posted in the Kershaw subforum, but not here, so "hi" to everyone. I have spent a lot of time reading the forums here, and just like all the forums on every subject (I participate in a few) people can get offended easily.

If I am not respectful enough of someone's favorite knife, manufacturer or model, I apologize in advance.

Knives are tools to me, and I work 'em hard. I have been in construction for almost 35 years, and my knives have to fill a lot of tasks during the day. I appreciate a pretty knife and have a couple, but mine for the most part are users. Like most here, I have the standard shoe box with Case, Puma, Benchmade, Queen, Kabar, Browning, etc. All of them (except the tiny little Kershaw I keep to remove splinters and cut my cigars) are job site (and some camping and hunting) tested.

Generally speaking, my knives cut reinforced nylon strapping tape, "trim" boards, scrape, cut, slice, and punch holes into things I need to have in operation in a hurry. I know that some of the things I do with my knives are borderline abuse, but since I think of them as tools, sometimes they have to go above and beyond expectations.

This brings me to the Shallot 110V. I absolutely can't say enough good things about this knife and about the steel. The knife lays flat enough that I can put it in my jeans AND put on my tool bags without any discomfort. I have only had it a month or so, but so far no rusting, which is huge for me since I sweat like a pig. I have tried a lot of different steels but I always wind up with AUS6 or 8, for no other reason than the fact they don't rust in my pocket. Some of the AUS8s aren't bad, but the AUS6 isn't good except for my pen knife.

The real corrosion test for me and the 110V will be when the thermometer hits the 100 degree mark, which it does every year here in South Texas. Usually for 2 -3 months at a time. Then I will have definitive proof of the steel's corrosion resistance.

The edge holding of this knife is incredible. Actually, almost unbelievable. I reprofiled the edge as it was not as adept at slicing materials as I wanted it to be, and it has made this my favorite EDC. It was sharpened by me once when I got it, and then after only touched up after I dropped it on a concrete slab and it managed to hit the cutting edge right on the belly. No damage to the knife, it just rolled the edge over.

You will find the S110V blade to be thicker than that of the other Shallots in the line, why I don't know. But, I love the thicker blade. Since it keeps the overall dimension and appearance of the Shallot line, the thicker blade allows you to put a double bevel on the edge without getting too thin behind the cutting edge.

I started the reprofile with my large chef's diamond hone. I buzzed the steel right off. Talking to a friend of mine that makes knives, he told me to try the Lansky sharpener I have on the blade.
Roger at knifeworks told me the same thing. It worked like a champ.

I reprofiled with the coarse stone. Cleaned up the edges through the next grits, and the stopped at the fine stone, which I believe is 600 grit. This steel is so hard the 600 polishes it nicely. I polished the very edge with a 1200 grit ceramic, and the steel looks like it hair sized mirror stripe on the edge.

Total time to reprofile on the Lansky including final edge with ceramics was a little under an hour. Well worth the investment or time as I now know two things: 1) it isn't hard to sharpen and 2) I can see how the edge I like performs on this knife.

So far, I couldn't be happier. In fact, I will be buying another one just like this next week to keep aside when this one sprouts legs, or is finally torn up. I hope it isn't for a long time. I have a hard time finding a knife I really like, but this one is a winner.

Robert

wow-that's a nice bit of info-thanks
 
Total time to reprofile on the Lansky including final edge with ceramics was a little under an hour. Well worth the investment or time as I now know two things: 1) it isn't hard to sharpen and 2) I can see how the edge I like performs on this knife.

So far, I couldn't be happier. In fact, I will be buying another one just like this next week to keep aside when this one sprouts legs, or is finally torn up. I hope it isn't for a long time. I have a hard time finding a knife I really like, but this one is a winner.

Robert,

Thanks for the review and suggestions on sharpening this steel. I bought one last night and the slight bit of nervousness I was feeling about getting it sharp is all gone. Can't wait to get it.:thumbup:
 
Glad to be of some help. I think you will really like this knife; keep in mind though, with an 1/8" thick blade that only uses 2/3 of the width to get to a flat ground edge it will never slice like a paring knife.

But as an EDC work knife, I have never been happier. To quote the mastiff above, "Without question, a super steel with wear resistance, abrasion resistance that's nothing short of amazing."

It really is that good. The more I use the knife, the more I like it. That hasn't happened in years.

Robert
 
Wow midnight flyer great post! You may want to add that to the Knife Reviews & Testing area as well. I'm pretty excited about S110V, I may have to pick up one of the Shallots and give it a try.

And I know how you feel about South Texas weather, I go to college in Austin but live in Corpus Christi. And being right next to the bay, rust resistance is one of the main characteristics I look at in choosing a knife.
 
It is likely more wear resistant, but not harder, though I dont know the hardness used for M4. In terms of upgrade, it depends on use. I'd rather have M4 myself. I'm partial to tool steels though.
 
I just got my Shallot with S110V today.
Damn nice knife esp. for the money. The blade is very sharp but that's all I can tell you guys at the moment other than I'm excited about the knife.
 
This is another "abrasive" steel from Crucible. It has not too big hardness itself, but contains a lot of very hard carbides - Niobium, Vanadium and Cobalt. In result it is very wear resistant, which does not mean automatically good edge holding. I was not able to sharpen it to hair whittling sharpness probably because CrO (Green Rouge) softer then all this Nb, V and Co carbides.

Here composition:

CPM S110V - C=2.8 Cr=14.0 V=9.0 Nb=3.5 Mo=3.5 Co=2.0

On my edge holding tests it toke 12th place and CPM M4 take 4th but difference is not really too significant and most likely will be hard to notice in practical use. Plus I know only one knife so far uses it - so it may have better result in the future when HT will be established after several models (same as it was some problems initially with CPM S30V).

This is defenetly high end steel and I hope to see more models with this steel - preferably Junk Yard Dog II.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
It is likely more wear resistant, but not harder, though I dont know the hardness used for M4. In terms of upgrade, it depends on use. I'd rather have M4 myself. I'm partial to tool steels though.

on the benchmade site, the LFTi it's in m4 and states 60-62 HRC....and Hells yea! tool steels are the BOMB!!!:jerkit::jerkit:
 
I bought 2 Shallots in 110V. 1 for me, and 1 for an employee of mine. I had to do alot of work to his as he messed the edge up trying to sharpen it. The edge had to be reprofiled and then sharpened again. What a job that was! I got her good and sharp again but man that steel is hard!

Anyway, I used mine a bit for cutting cardboard and foam. I also did a bit of wittling with some oak. Not alot, but enough that many blades would have needed to be touched up. Not this one. I really like the 110V and hope to see more of it. I will have to invest in more DMT Stones. Thats for sure.
 
I bought 2 Shallots in 110V. 1 for me, and 1 for an employee of mine. I had to do alot of work to his as he messed the edge up trying to sharpen it. The edge had to be reprofiled and then sharpened again. What a job that was! I got her good and sharp again but man that steel is hard!

Anyway, I used mine a bit for cutting cardboard and foam. I also did a bit of wittling with some oak. Not alot, but enough that many blades would have needed to be touched up. Not this one. I really like the 110V and hope to see more of it. I will have to invest in more DMT Stones. Thats for sure.

can you post a review on it?:D:D
 
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