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- Thread starter .30WCF
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With that big poll, it resembles one of these axes from the 18th century:
http://www.davistownmuseum.org/toolAxes.html
http://www.davistownmuseum.org/toolAxes.html
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It looks like it's been hammered a bit given the mushrooming. That could be part of the reason for the eye shape but it is pretty uniform still compared to newer heads but that eye is still pretty long front to back. Seems like if it was hammered enough to change the eye shape that it would also reduce the eye length. - It looks big in your pictures.
It does have a lot of poll compared to newer builds. It is proportionally larger than the TT which was probably 3.5#s? I wonder if there is extra material added to the poll?
That part of the eye that shows defined lines - could be that it has a steel bit insert? Someone else might have a take on that.
The bit profile looks pretty thick, some of that is from wear and sharpening but also could have been part of an overall thicker design.
Question is, what do you want to do with it? I would try to wire wheel it to see if that is a makers mark on the poll and may see if you can find some distinction in the metal to see if it is a steel insert and if there is a line at the poll.
It makes me think Jersey but those ears also remind me a little of a couple of really interesting old axes that Old Axeman shared here recently.
That is all speculation and probably not helpful but if it was sharp I bet it would split wood without a problem.
It does have a lot of poll compared to newer builds. It is proportionally larger than the TT which was probably 3.5#s? I wonder if there is extra material added to the poll?
That part of the eye that shows defined lines - could be that it has a steel bit insert? Someone else might have a take on that.
The bit profile looks pretty thick, some of that is from wear and sharpening but also could have been part of an overall thicker design.
Question is, what do you want to do with it? I would try to wire wheel it to see if that is a makers mark on the poll and may see if you can find some distinction in the metal to see if it is a steel insert and if there is a line at the poll.
It makes me think Jersey but those ears also remind me a little of a couple of really interesting old axes that Old Axeman shared here recently.
That is all speculation and probably not helpful but if it was sharp I bet it would split wood without a problem.
Yeah, it definitely has that really, really old look to it. The old eyes were oval, and that long poll was the norm as Steve has shown. Very cool. It appears to be intact; I think what your're seeing in the eye is from the smith drifting the eye, but I could be wrong as I am no expert.
IMMHO I would leave it as is only because it took so long to get that way and any work you do will diminish it's beauty.
Correct me if I'm wrong but the seam in the front of the eye isn't that an indication that it was folded and forge welded?
The crate from American Cyanide is worth some good bucks today in the fleece bay world.
Rick
Correct me if I'm wrong but the seam in the front of the eye isn't that an indication that it was folded and forge welded?
The crate from American Cyanide is worth some good bucks today in the fleece bay world.
Rick
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Yes, I see those form time to time, and they are what I generically think of as OLD. There is no common maker, but axes of this age share certain physical characteristics. They are all hand made, very concave and have comparatively thin eye walls and long polls. The eyes are not punched out, but rather folded over the eye form and then forge welded together. That seam isn't a flaw, it's just where the metal comes together. This style frequently have cast steel bits. This is not exact, but I'm guessing a rough range of mid-late 19th century. I would also say that yours is in very good condition all things considered. Maybe it shouldn't become the next axe for the landscape crew (I bet it could though), but it should definitely be saved. I don't see Jersey type heads in that style very often. I'd love to see that cleaned up with an appropriate handle.
Square_peg
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I think it's old - likely late 19th century. As JB said it's a folded and forge welded eye so the line in the eye is no problem. It does appear to have been used as a wedge and the eye has likely been widened from that. A blacksmith could repair it and re-heat treat it. but for an old axe like that it's probably better just to keep it as a conversation piece.
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I wouldn't be in a rush to grind, belt sand or alter that head. Misshapen eyes from the poll end having been abused with a BFH (big flocking hammer) usually 'look the part'. This one for some reason is a uniform oval and might have seen minor expansion in width, or maybe not at all. Carefully measure the eye dimensions at the front and back.
You have on hand a perfect excuse to ask to tour the backrooms of some museums in hopes of finding a match or of finding an enthusiastic curator to help you date the thing. I don't know at what point in history the major domestic manufacturers got together to standardize eye shapes and sizes but 100 years ago strikes me as too recent.
Pictures below are of a Peterborough, Ontario, Canada - made head that Steve Tall positively identified as having been forged between 1864 and 1871. Notice the eye on this one is pointed at both ends instead of oval like yours, and that it's not a very 'American-looking' pattern.
You have on hand a perfect excuse to ask to tour the backrooms of some museums in hopes of finding a match or of finding an enthusiastic curator to help you date the thing. I don't know at what point in history the major domestic manufacturers got together to standardize eye shapes and sizes but 100 years ago strikes me as too recent.
Pictures below are of a Peterborough, Ontario, Canada - made head that Steve Tall positively identified as having been forged between 1864 and 1871. Notice the eye on this one is pointed at both ends instead of oval like yours, and that it's not a very 'American-looking' pattern.
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It reminds me of the axes made by John Stohler (b.1841--d.1920):
... Stricker and Stohler - Pa both mid 1800s....I love these!...
From a newspaper article that has a photo of J.B. Stohler at his workshop:
"In a rickety frame shack near Schaefferstown, John Beamesdorfer Stohler (1841-1920), made axes and other cutting tools. His father, John N. Stohler, was a blacksmith. J. B. Stohler must have taken pride in his work for today his axes are collector's items. Two things account for this: First of all Stohler's tools were superior to others from the start. By molding a piece of tempered steel over the cutting edge of an ax, Stohler imparted durability to the edge. His axes would stay sharper longer. Naturally his wares were the most expensive. Secondly, Stohler marked his tools with a distinctive cross either above or below his name, and collectors of anything always prefer signed pieces. Stohler's workshop is gone. His house, however, still stands off St. 501, south of Schaefferstown, near the Penn Dale warehouse....In the picture of the workshop the bearded man at right is Stohler."
Quoted from article Lebanon County Antiques, A history of the county as seen through its artifacts, Number 35 87 by Mike Schropp.
Lebanon Daily News, 10 December 1969, Page 22
Photo and text of article found at google cache of this page:
http://www.newspapers.com/newspage/5238481/
Thanks Steve. First order of business is to gently wire wheel the head to see if there are any marks or stamps on it. Your caption doesn't mention where you are located but if for instance you happen to live near Schaefferstown that'll raise a few eyebrows.
I think it's worth more to me as a working heirloom if it can be used as a splitter. My wife's great grandfather was a train hopper as a young man around the 1900 s. So there is no telling where he picked it up. The man went wherever he wanted.
For the last fifty years or so of his life he settled down in central NC. He had a farm that's still in the family. The driveway that passes within ten feet of the original house is actually an old wagon road that everyone used to travel years ago ( before he owned it ) with wagons and carts to get from one town to the other.
So to split wood with great grandfather's axe, and for my kids to handle their great great grandfather's axe would be kinda neat.
I see no marks or lines. It's heavily pitted though.
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For the last fifty years or so of his life he settled down in central NC. He had a farm that's still in the family. The driveway that passes within ten feet of the original house is actually an old wagon road that everyone used to travel years ago ( before he owned it ) with wagons and carts to get from one town to the other.
So to split wood with great grandfather's axe, and for my kids to handle their great great grandfather's axe would be kinda neat.
I see no marks or lines. It's heavily pitted though.
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Not being able to determine the provenance of a 'no name' head does mess up the potential collector value. Under those circumstances I can readily see trying to craft a new handle (from wood off your land) for it and putting it back in action. Only I wouldn't be leaving it out in the woodshed but be bringing it in at night to display somewhere. It's a magnificent-looking piece and is probably an ancestor of 'modern' Kentucky/Jersey types.
Those eye measurements are consistent enough from front to back and 2 3/4" for height is pretty much standard these days. However coming up with a 1 inch width piece of wood (if you're praying to find one at the hardware store!) is going to be difficult. You may wind up whittling down a pick or mattock handle.
Those eye measurements are consistent enough from front to back and 2 3/4" for height is pretty much standard these days. However coming up with a 1 inch width piece of wood (if you're praying to find one at the hardware store!) is going to be difficult. You may wind up whittling down a pick or mattock handle.
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Cleaned it a little more. Good enough to suit me as where I see it headed at this point. Don't even know if I'll sharpen it. It's about as sharp as a store bought maul now. I don't want to be too invasive. I was eyeballing it against a double bit handle I have in a Collins now. Length was spot on. Width looked like a healthy wedge might get you there in a pinch until I can get on the woods to select a handle. Should sit low but not too low on the shoulder of a double.
If I could find one without the kerf cut Id try a double wedge. Two kerfs, splitting the eye in thirds. Seems to be balanced. You can see where the bit is forge welded in.
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If I could find one without the kerf cut Id try a double wedge. Two kerfs, splitting the eye in thirds. Seems to be balanced. You can see where the bit is forge welded in.
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Square_peg
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Looks like a typical Baltimore Kentucky pattern. Many makers made them.
Just a temporary fix, or not? Took a close fit and am going to give it a try. Still working on thinning it down. That's just as far as I got last night. Had to use two wood wedges to fill it out.
Not a bad match though.
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Not a bad match though.
With that big poll, it resembles one of these axes from the 18th century:
http://www.davistownmuseum.org/toolAxes.html
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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That is a great idea! Cool cross wedge as well. That little space could be filled with another sliver of shaped wedge - just to keep moisture and dirt out (learned that here 
)
Resourceful. Looks like a straight single bit the way you are shaping it as well. You also get control as to how long it is as well since there you can create a slight swell anywhere on the handle.
Very cool .30WCF
)Resourceful. Looks like a straight single bit the way you are shaping it as well. You also get control as to how long it is as well since there you can create a slight swell anywhere on the handle.
Very cool .30WCF
That is a great idea! Cool cross wedge as well. That little space could be filled with another sliver of shaped wedge - just to keep moisture and dirt out (learned that here
Resourceful. Looks like a straight single bit the way you are shaping it as well. You also get control as to how long it is as well since there you can create a slight swell anywhere on the handle.
Very cool .30WCF
The cross wedge is cut out of an old ball peen hammer handle I had to rehang a few weeks back.
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