What's tougher, Talonite, Ti, or H-1?

define abuse and we're part way there. Plus you don't care about edge holding?
 
Sorry I didn't elaborate. Mostly cutting hardwood. Using the tip to drill and carve notches. The occasional prying. Edge retention is important, but failure is more of a concern with corrosion resistance being a top priority as it is for a salt water environment. In advance, thanks.
 
It seems that you would be best off with steel most likely a good tool steel of the choices given it would seem that H1 or Talonite would be the best but there are better materials for the task.
 
I could be wrong, but I believe that Talonite would be a bad decision for carving into hardwood. As I understand it Talonite is great for paper, and soft materials, but isn't meant for hard objects. For example, I've read accounts on the forums of people using their Talonite knives in the kitchen to carve up chickens and everything went fine until they hit the bones wherein the person found a large dent in the blade from the contact with the bone (they were using a Cuda Talonite EDC). I think a true steel would be best for using in a hardwood carving situation. I'm sure one of the local metalurgists will be along shortly, though.

Sincerely,
Anthony
 
Talonite and stellite are fairly soft and it isn't that difficult to roll an edge if you are going to have relatively hard impacts. Still, for smaller blades it works well for me.
But a regular diet of hardwood would seem to call for a [carbon or "stainless"] steel.
 
Talonite would not be the best material for this application.

I have not used H-1 so I cannot respond about its toughness.

When you write titanium you need to define which alloy. If you are talking about Beta C that is used in Mission knives, it is very very tough.

Nick Wheeler is finishing a knife that was forged by Ed Schempp from Beta C. Nick said Beta C is horrible to grind and profile. He sharpened the edge and it got very sharp and is still tough. I have new respect for this material. I'm looking forward to receiving the knife.
 
Thanks for the replies. That is what I looking for, particulary about Talonite.

Nope, I am not Joseph.

Thanks again,

Chris
 
For edge holding, Talonite would be best of the three mentioned, but toughness is in question.

Titanium generally doesn't rank very high in the edge-holding dept, but as Chuck nentioned, Ed Schempp has done some wondrous things with forging titanium. I have a forged titanium prybar that Ed made for me that is unbelieveably tough, but it isn'ts sharp. (it wasn't built with an edge).

If anyone can make Titan really cut and keep on cutting, I'd put my money on Ed. But it will probably be far more expensive than the arfore mentioned materials.,

H-1 might be the best compromise, especially where cost is a consideration. It doesn't rust. It holds an a edge about like AUS-6. It is steel and is respectably tough.

sal
 
Thanks Sal. I remember reading here on Bladeforum Spyderco was one of the pioneers with H-1.

I guess I am looking for a very small neck knife in H-1. Something the size of a Bitterroot. I haven't seen anything production. Does anyone know of customer maker that has done anything in H-1?
 
Quiet Bear,

I don't know of any custom knifemakers using H-1. I don't even know where to buy H-1. :confused:
 
Interesting steel. On the Spyderco Pacific Salt page there is a short description of H1:
Finally a steel foundry in Japan called Myodo Foundry makes this myth a reality with the introduction of a new steel called H1. H1 steel is a PH steel, meaning it is a precipitation-hardened steel. \"Huh\" you ask? Utilizing .1% nitrogen instead of carbon to harden the steel, it reaches a Rockwell hardness of 57-58rc.
Click to expand...
High chromium, .1% nitrogen -- how tough is this steel supposed to be that Benchmade is using it in their dive knife and Spyderco uses it in a corrosion-free knife similar to the Endura? What's the toughness compared to 154CM or S30V?
 
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