What's your definition of a good working knife?

golok

golok

Joined
Oct 20, 2000
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Whenever I heard the term "working knife", the first thing that pops into my head is "crude but highly functional".

Sometimes I hear people say "this one is my working knife". By that, I presume that the knife in question is not a "display only" model but lacks the finishing of a highly polished, mirror-finish, high-tech material blade.

Working knife to my mind means it can be thrashed around, can be soiled, can be beaten half to death but won't die, not very pretty but cuts like the devil and you won't cry for days if you lose it.

There are showcase knives and then there are working blades.

Some knife knuts or even knifemakers may disagree. I believe quite a number of knifemakers are of the opinion that all their knives are working knives. That may be true but from the perspective of the collector, there is a certain amount of self-inflicted pain in throwing a $2,000 knife around like it is a $50 model.

I really doubt there are many who would treat all their knives regardless of price the same.

So what's your idea of a working knife?
 
My idea of a working knife is one that is tough, sharpens easily and holds an edge pretty well. It must also be capable of withstanding the elements where it will be used. It must also be comfortable to hold. Of course it must be priced at a level where someone will not be afraid to use it hard. Sometimes that is very hard to do with a really expensive knife.
 
A SAK Soldier. Does everything I ask it to do. And then some. I think I have 4 of them laying around. There is ALWAYS one in my pocket...
 
golok,

I pretty much agree with your assesment, although my definition of a working knife is more like "Crudely used, but highly functional"

I don't consider either my Outdoor Edge Zytel Magna or Becker Combat/Utility 7 "crude" in and of themselves, but i've done some insanely abusive things to them and they just come back wanting more, they are work knives to me because:
1. they and I have been through alot together
2. they show the signs of "work wear"
3. they've held up to everything i've asked of them
and
4. they were cheap enough that I wasn't afraid to really USE them in the first place
 
When it comes to working knives, it's like with any tool, you get what you pay for.
Being a mechanic, I've come to appreciate a $200 production folder for what it is, a fine working tool, much like any tool I don't have what I consider a beater. Any knife cheap enough for me to beat, or not care if I lose is probably a poor quality knife, like my dad always said the right tool for the job.
All that aside the closest I could come to a beater would be a lower end production folder like a Schrade, or a CRK&T, not that they're not great knives they are just not of the same caliber as BM, or any of the more expensive production folders.
 
The two knives that immediately came to mind were my SAK Soldier and my old 1977 Buck 110!!!

Something about them...

Close third was my Spyderco Native FRN
 
I agree with all the above mentioned statements. I would also add that lock reliability and robust construction is important. You could never go wrong with a Strider AR, AL Mar SERE 2000, Microtech LCC, Benchmade Axis lock folder or a Sebenza. I prefer to make and use framelocks for the most part.
 
For right now, It's an aluminum bolstered MT LCC. It is soon to be replaced by a Strider AR, backed up by a Opinel OP-84 for making slices where strength is not an issue.
 
Yes, the Strider AR is a great working knife, as is the TOPS 747, the Mission MPF, and the Spyderco FRN Native.
The Blackjack Small is also a great working knife, as are any of the Marbles knives I have owned.

I have culled my collection down to some of the best using knives I have found, and those listed are about all that's left. Those folders, along with a few fixed blades, will more than handle any type of cutting or abuse I may need them for.
 
I think you've all got a piece of it. Here's mine...

1. Its got to cut (or chop if that's the mission) really well.
2. It has to be rugged enough to survive what you typically do with it.
3. You've got to be really using it. Every day, or every day you go fishing, or what ever...
 
I agree with KWM, however, I don't purchase any custom that I won't use! I just don't believe in letting a fine, custom knife sit in a safe or drawer. My two cents!
 
A good work knife is:
1)One that cuts very well. I think many so called "work knives" are way to thick for good cutting. It looks like they designed some to be used as a breaker-bar and then added an edge.

2)One that holds an edge for at least a 12-hour day's worth of casual use. And by casual use I don't mean hacking through PVC pipe for 12 hours straight--more like cutting rope/cordage, boxes, plastic packaging, tape, ect.

3)One that's strong enough for some tough cutting but not overbuilt so much that it's too heavy to carry all day long. I love my Schrade LB7 (the Schrade version of the Buck 110) but it's just too heavy for me to carry around all day. It's good for the car or toolbox, but not in my pocket.

4)One that can be accessed and opened with one hand.

5)One that's affordable!
I simply cannot use a knife that will cost me alot of money to replace or repair.

Right now, It's my Spyderco Endura.

Good luck,
Allen.
 
Crude is hardly the way to describe a good working knife. Right now my EDC is a Buck 110 with damascus blade( PCKS) and a 501 Stag Handled. I would cry alot for losing either one. But before those it was a Buck Odyssey or 112. Before that it was an Old Timer 108. Nothing crude there. :)
guy
 
My new Greco Green River seems to be the epitome of a working knife, although I haven't put it through it's paces yet. It was fairly cheap, it's built pretty tough and looks/feels like it means business. Also, it has the kind of craggy, Claude Akins-like looks that can only be improved by being scratched and beat up.
 
Funny You asked. I was thinking about that the other day.
I was driving and there was a big plastic sack on the road. The traffic was heavy and I had no chance avoiding it. As I drove over it I cheched the rear-view mirror and the damn thing didn´t come out from under the car. So next chance I got of the freeway and checked. The damn thing had melted all over the exhaust system.
I tried with a steelbrush to get the damn thing of but that didn´t work. So enter my pocket knife of the day. I had my BM 730bt this day. That one is priced rather steep in Sweden but that’s what I had to use. I scraped the hole exhausts system with the knife and it went fine. Afterwards the knife still had some kind of edge on it and wasn’t chipped in any way. It was real easy to clean, maybe the bt-coating had something to do with that. A quick session on the sharpening stone and it was back to go.
Now this wasn´t a life threatening incident but I’m glad I had that knife on me. It is strong hand holds an edge, takes a beating and comes back for more. So it´s my workknife.
 
Basically all I have is "working" knives. Can't afford to jst collect and admire them although if I could I probably would.;)

I have a BK&T Brute strapped to my four wheeler that has really taken a beating. I only have to touch the edge up every so often as it holds up very well for what I subject this thing to.

I just made the mistake of trading off my small Sebenza that I was never affraid to use. Heck if I ruin it or break it I'll just send it back for repair. I bought it to use and am now going to have to somehow get another.

I have an old Remington "whittler" that I'm now carrying again until a find a way to get a Seb. I carried this daily for over ten years. It too has taken ALOT of abuse. Best $20.00 knife I've ever owned.

Just got a Busse Steel Heart E a few weeks ago (used). I've already whacked the crap out of it. Tree limbs, kindling, ect. Once again, I bought it to use, not look at or re-sell.

I want a Reeve Sable, a large and a small Sebenza, all to carry and use. Sebenza's mainly edc and the Sable for weekend camping and hiking.

I also have a GB small forest axe. Used it alot this weekend too.

So to sum it up, I use all the knives I have with the exception of several Remington Bullet knives that I recieved a Christmas gifts years ago and a couple of old Bucks that have been in the drawer for years too. I don't even remember what they are.
 
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