What's your full system?

Comeuppance

Fixed Blade EDC Emisssary
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
4,765
I'm no collector, but I certainly have more (and more expensive) knives than most people. I justify this in part by having each knife I own serve a different purpose. Additionally, there are certain tools and supplies one needs to properly (or, at least, ideally) maintain such knives. There are a lot of people here with varying philosophies regarding their knives, and I think we'd all benefit from seeing some different assortments, perspectives, and tips. Also, a little knife porn never hurt anyone :D

First and foremost, a very pleasant surprise for me: The Cold Steel Tuff Lite.



As my tape-and-cardboard knife, this probably gets the most use. Small, tough, reliable, sharp, easy to sharpen, comfy, functional, and light.
- Hard use knife I won't fret about if damaged.
- Feels like a natural extension of my hand.
- Can get it completely covered in tape gunk and not feel the need to clean it.
- Weighs very little, locks up like a tank, capable of everything but holding an edge for long.
- Legal basically everywhere locking knives are legal, non-threatening at work. Definitely a tool by design, not a weapon.

The next knife was an impulse purchase at a local Army Surplus store: a Benchmade 530 Pardue



- Insanely light. Seriously. 1.88oz, but with a fully capable axis lock and a 3.25" 154CM blade.
- Invisible in the pocket of black slacks, light enough to not make somewhat loose pants sag.
- Kinda threatening, but still very functional as a tool.

Now a knife I had been eyeing for over six months, but never purchased due to the mediocre reputation of the company and the remarkable lack of reviews: The Meyerco Darrel Ralph "DDR EDC"



- I kinda want to get this duracoated with multicolored DDR arrows.
- Handsome, shiny, solid, smooth knife.
- I can carry this when I'm in less-than-desirable parts of town and feel reasonably prepared for anyone that doesn't have a gun. I've actually had cause to make someone back down from a fight with this knife - over him refusing to accept me refusing his request for a cigarette.
- Sharpest knife I own; should not be handled while drunk and in the dark.



Next is a big shout-out to Preacher on these very same forums. This knife popped up on the For-sale-by-individual forum, and we worked out a trade. It was an absolute pleasure talking to the guy and his work is fantastic. I present my Preacher-customized Spyderco Gayle Bradley.



- Orange Anso-Cut C-Tec scales that practically glow with the light reflected off of the underlying steel liners.
- Second time I've owned this variety of knife. Sold the first, regretted it, and now it's back and better than ever.
- My most favorite work knife of all time. I once heard someone call it the "James Bond of knives" - Classy looking (with the default Carbon Fiber scales), but tough as nails. It's a dress knife and a workhorse at the same time.
- Seriously, did you see those scales?
- I mean, hot damn.
- Just look at them.




Finally, my most recent and currently completely un-used Zero Tolerance 0550 DLC



- Bought off eBay with no pocket clip, contacted Kai for a replacement a week ago - haven't heard back yet, but I've heard good things about their customer service.
- Purchased because I had a good experience with S35VN steel through one of the higher-end knockoff Hinderers. The Hinderer knockoff was okay, but I really loved the steel. When I realized I could get a knife with the same steel, but with better build quality and a warranty for the same price, I gave that knife to a friend and bought this one.
- Super stupid crazy smooth action. Flips open with a middle-finger-flick on the thumbstud just as quickly, easily, and smoothly as my 0561 did with a flipper.
- Will be my work knife when the weather here in Denver becomes too snowy to risk the M4 steel on my Gayle Bradley.
- ASSUMING THE CLIP EVER GETS HERE >:(


(I also have a Becker Necker and a Svord Peasant en route, but those are just for giggles.)

So, that's the knives, but I also have to maintain them!
Maintenance equipment:



- Wiha screwdriver set. Tool-steel bits that don't strip out like all other torx bits I've had. Anti-static as well, which allowed me to safely install memory into my laptop.
- Nano-oil (often called nano-lube?). Best knife lubricant I've ever used, and I've used quite a few. Blows tuff-glide out of the water.
- Marine Tuff-Glide: Not the best lubricant, but hot damn does it protect against corrosion. I was carrying a Gayle Bradley clipped inside of my pocket on hot, humid Oklahoma work days. Never had a single spot of corrosion pop up.
- Loctite Blue 242. Standard tool of the trade. Dial it in, lock it in.

And then the sharpening:



- Knivesplus strop block. Didn't feel like making my own, bought this one, and it's fantastic.
- Smiths 3-in-1 sharpening system. Basically a Sharpmaker knockoff by design, but I just hold the ceramic rods in my hand to sharpen my knives with greater control. Also, the diamond sharpener and carbide v-sharpener are extremely useful when people give me their beat-up gas station knives so I can sharpen them. I sharpen out the chips on the carbides, correct the grind with the diamond, and then finish off with ceramics and stropping.
- Not pictured: KME Sharpening system. It's useful and worth the money, but I've only needed to use it a couple times when I wanted to put a whole new edge on a blade. I butchered the edge on my old Cold Steel Kobun back when I was fresh into knives and couldn't sharpen for anything. This brought it to a nice and clean 34-degree edge. I probably wouldn't purchase such a system again, though, given how much they cost and how rarely I use it.

So, that's my full setup at the moment - What's yours?
 
I've seen, handled and owned a lot of knives over the last three years, working my way up and down the price/quality ladder. I'm very picky about what knives I buy and I have it down to three. I estimate that I have owned north of fifty different blades, while that pales in comparison to a lot of people, it's more than enough to realize exactly what you like/want.

-Pohan Leu custom Bluephin flipper: zero ground S35VN traditional tanto, orange peeled, blasted, stonewashed and bronzed.

-Lionsteel SR-1 in Starfire damascus.

-Boker/GTC Federal with hand satin frame edges. This knife was purchased only because Gus is my favorite designer and i'll likely never have $2k to drop on a knife.

-(On order) Jason Clark flipper: compound grind, hand satin wharncliff blade in B75P, blasted and violet anodized frame.

I sharpen the Leu on a dmt double sided bench stone and all the others get the sharpmaker treatment although I stop at the medium rods.

A single orange Leatherman Juice goes along for the ride everyday and I rotate my folders.
 
Wicked Edge and paper wheels on a variable speed bench grinder.

I also still have waterstones and diamond stones, but hardly use those anymore.
 
Served me well for 29 years now.

Sharpening.JPG
 
My system? Well first, I don't have any justifications for owning the knives I have. There's no justification at all for me to have anything more than a decent Victorinox SAK. I carry whatever slipjoint I feel like that particular day (which sometimes is in fact a Vic SAK), and a Boker KeyCom. I keep a small Vic Classic SD in a little first aid kit, and have a couple of multitools here and there for various uses. I almost never use the knife blades on the MTs but I have them sharpened well in case I ever need to.

My maintenance kit consists of a can of WD-40 Silicone spray and some Eezox gun cleaner/lube/protectant, Simichrome polish, Renaissance Wax, along with paper towels and q-tips as needed, and some wooden coffee stirrers for getting inside the liners.

Sharpening is a set of 3 DMT diamond bench stones, a Spyderco Sharpmaker, and a leather belt which I put some green polishing compound on that I bought at Lowe's.

That's pretty much it. Sorry that I don't have pics of all of that stuff.
 
Served me well for 29 years now.

Sharpening.JPG

What's the nickel for? Frame of reference? Good system, btw. Stone and diamond paddle - s'about all you need. Heck, just the diamond will get a knife sharp enough to do almost anything.

My system? Well first, I don't have any justifications for owning the knives I have. There's no justification at all for me to have anything more than a decent Victorinox SAK. I carry whatever slipjoint I feel like that particular day (which sometimes is in fact a Vic SAK), and a Boker KeyCom. I keep a small Vic Classic SD in a little first aid kit, and have a couple of multitools here and there for various uses. I almost never use the knife blades on the MTs but I have them sharpened well in case I ever need to.

My maintenance kit consists of a can of WD-40 Silicone spray and some Eezox gun cleaner/lube/protectant, Simichrome polish, Renaissance Wax, along with paper towels and q-tips as needed, and some wooden coffee stirrers for getting inside the liners.

I used to use that same silicone spray - I strongly recommend Nano-oil, for sure. It's a really noticeable difference, and it's not nearly as messy or smelly. Q-tips are pro - I wish they made them with just the very end cotton-swabbed, so that the diameter of the end was roughly the same as the stick.
 
Aside from the knives, I own a wicked edge sharpener for maintaining a nice sharp edge on all of them and I use Wiha Pico finish torx drivers for adjusting/working on them. I've tried several types of lubricants but so far my favorite has been Frog Lube. Other than that, I always keep some blue loc-tite around.
 
Well I have more knives than I care to count (and more than I care to admit to my Fiance ;) )


But as far as maintenance goes , I have a lot as well.

Edge Pro Professional
Atoma Plates (140 - 1200grit)
Shapton Stones (120 - 30,000grit)
Diamond Films (165 - 0.5 Micron)
12 different Japanese Natural Stones (more to come)

For compounds I have
Boron Carbide (3k , 5k and 8k) on Kangaroo Leather
Cubic Boron Nitride (80 micron - 0.1 Micron) On kangaroo mostly with the lower grit stuff on Nanocloth
Polycrystalline Diamond (0.5 - 0.025micron) On nanocloth

Just counted 23 different strops with 3 or 4 more on the way (im too lazy to go open my email and see what I wound up getting)

For pivot lubrication I use Nano Oil , and for rust protection I use Fluid Film , I have been thinking about making the switch to Aegis Solutions EDC Spray for rust protection , its been getting great reviews all over.

I also have other hand tools , torx etc....
A Veho Desktop Microscope....
Loupes....

Probably some more stuff im forgetting.....

Heres some porn.. Theres a few compounds , strops and diamond films missing from this picture , some stuff just hasn't quite got in from ken yet :)

Shaptons and Compounds


Japanese Naturals


Diamond Products


Strops


Nano Oil


Did some work on a CPM 3V Cold Steel last night , After getting the bevels aligned I worked it to a 1k shapton , with a drop of CBN , that swarf is after minutes of sharpening , CBN just gobbles up the harder steels. Its still not perfect right around the Tanto , The factory grind was extremely poor , (5* difference between the two sides) , I just evened it up and apexed the bevel on either side , It will get closer and closer to perfect with future sharpenings , I just wasn't all that interested in removing that much metal... This knife is going to get a ridiculous edge...
 
for maintenance the main things I use are leather strops, DMT folds, and a 1hp belt sander. I never bother to put a picture perfect edge on knives for the most part, I just like a good working edge.

I like the DMT coarse/fine folder because you can easily sharpen pretty much anything with it be it knife, axe, etc. belt sanders can make a dull kitchen knife into a razor in a few minutes.

I've always wanted an edge pro, for those gorgeous edges... but I can't justify the cost or the time it takes.
 

First, let me say that you have the most incredibly sexy sharpening setup I have ever seen (or could possibly imagine). Now, I'm curious about Nano Oil. I see that you have all three different weights, which one do you find works best for lubrication? Or are certain weights better for certain pivots?
 
Thank you.

As a general rule the 10w works best on knife pivots. But there are certain situations where i go up or down accordingly.For example I feel that Balisongs benefit from.the 85w to help keep it in.place.
The nano grease is neat stuff too. It requires a partial take down but i do find it to feel very glasslike and it definately lasts the longest. I redid my 6" Ti Lite at the start of the year with nano grease. Still smooth as glass and no lint attraction.
 
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