When the haft is too small for the eye (front to back). Fixes?

Diomedes Industries

Diomedes Industries

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Mar 19, 2007
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A few times I have had a haft that was well balanced and plenty thick in the cheeks - but is, perhaps, 1/8th shy of filling the eye from front to back.

I have seen double wedging the axe when handing to solve this - but I wonder what other possible fixes there are to this problem.

For instance, does pounding in another small wedge at the front of the eye to take up some of that gap help?

Any suggestions would be great.

TF
 
I too have wondered about this. I did one last week that I used a normal wedge on and also "created" a couple of other wedge/shims to fill in gaps. When done it seemed really solid but it hasn't been used yet. Hopefully someone with more expertise will be along soon.
 
I had that happen with a hatchet I rehung. I just took another wedge, cut it so it would be a snug fit and pounded it in. I also used a metal wedge to help hold the smaller one in. I would also use swell-lock or BLO after you hang a head just so it helps hold.
 
Just fashion a wooden wedge that is an eighth inch longer than your kerf. Tap it in good and solid. I glue my wood wedges in with Tightbond or Gorilla glue. If there is still a little play place one of those metal wedges diagonally about a quarter of the way back from the offending end.
 
An eighth inch gap is nothing to worry about. You can just leave it.

However, if you want to fill it you can use a longer wedge (measured along the length of the eye, not the depth of the kerf). But be careful, the wedge mustn't be too long. While driving the wedge it's forward motion must be stopped by the sides of the helves, not the front and back of the eye. If you choose to fill the eye with a long wedge then pre-fit the wedge to the eye without the helve in place. Make sure the wedge easily drops in beyond the point where it will later be driven in. If the wedge's progress is stopped by the front and back of the eye instead of the helve then it won't hold.

Hint: You may also wish to round the corners of the wedge to fit the radius of the eye.
 
SP:

I find that the wedge is shaven by the eye with it is slightly too large. I mark the wedge to make sure it is sunk to the bottom of the curf. Thoughts?

TF
 
Square_peg said:
If the wedge's progress is stopped by the front and back of the eye instead of the helve then it won't hold.
Click to expand...

Important. If you want to get a really close fill, you can try using two pieces or even three for the wedge so that you can get it tight without.
 
G:

You are you saying that if I have a Wedge that isn't large enough to fill the whole eye (from edge to poll) that I can use multiple wedges?

I am just checking for clarity...

TF
 
Talfuchre said:
G:

You are you saying that if I have a Wedge that isn't large enough to fill the whole eye (from edge to poll) that I can use multiple wedges?

I am just checking for clarity...

TF
Click to expand...

Yes. I have had axes with slightly deformed eyes that I've had to use custom shaped or multiple wedges to get truly tight. I think you can get it tighter that way. Plus it probably wouldn't be as hindered in the wedge "bottomed out" by hitting the front and back of the eye.
 
Talfuchre said:
I mark the wedge to make sure it is sunk to the bottom of the curf. Thoughts?
Click to expand...

The wedge should get tight and stop before it bottoms out. If it bottoms out it's not tight enough. The only thing that should stop the wedge is the sides of the kerf.
 
Another way to deal with a helve smaller than the eye is to cross wedge it.

Finished_broad_axe.JPG
 
Square_peg said:
Another way to deal with a helve smaller than the eye is to cross wedge it.

Finished_broad_axe.JPG
Click to expand...

Cross-wedging was mentioned elsewhere today, so here's a related thread, along with some information from Horace Kephart. He suggests softwood wedges, and two cross wedges if necessary, and says that "metal wedges are not satisfactory."


books


books




Outing; Sport, Adventure, Travel, Fiction
Volume 74. W. B. Holland., 1919, page 233
https://books.google.com/books?id=bJhAAQAAMAAJ&pg=PA233#v=onepage&q&f=false
 
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