When You Sharpen Your EDC Folder.....

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Dec 12, 2002
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When you sharpen your EDC folder what grit and angle do you use?

I sharpened my BM705 to around 1000 grit at 20 degrees and I was unhappy because it didn't seem to cut well. Meanwhile my Leatherman Squirt came with a factory single-edge coarse grind and shaves hair very well. What gives?
 
It’s not the angle as much as the skill of the person sharpening it. I sharpen my Greco Grifon at 23* or around there with a 1200 grit DMT. It’s always sharp even after hacking away at some wood. You may not be sharpening it correctly, would you tell us what system you use? So you work on once side till it develops a wire edge? And then work the other side till gets one? And then lightly remove the wire edge? That’s what I do and I get great results…do you push really hard? Its better to do light strokes…your Squirt has a more toothy edge and thinner grinds, it will cut better do to its thin blade than what type of edge angle you use…
 
I have 3 knives that I count as my edc's. I sharpen them all on my Sharpmaker 204 and use the white stones to do so. I usually sharpen them the evening after I've used them that day. Most of the time this only takes 4 to 6 swipes on each.
 
Gee... I must be a dinosaur. I still use a Lansky, with diamond stones. The key for my sharp edges is stropping off the wire edge on a leather board, with red rouge ground in to the leather. That seems to work fine for me, and I've never had any complaints from people I sharpen for.

As for the angle, I just follow what's already there.
 
Originally posted by Will'em
would you tell us what system you use? So you work on once side till it develops a wire edge? And then work the other side till gets one? And then lightly remove the wire edge? That’s what I do and I get great results…do you push really hard?

I'm using a Lansky with synthetic stones. I do use light strokes, but I may not be working it long enough with the coarse stone to set the angle all the way down to the point. I guess that I need pactice, practice, practice.;)
 
I usually use the Lansky running at 20 deg. with great results. The method of the person doing the actual sharpening probably has the greatest bearing on the results regardless. I use the medium (green) hone the most, and the finer ones (blue, yellow) very gently. I also heard that it's a good pratice to give the edge some time to "settle" before doing any stropping. just my 2c.
 
If Glennbad is a dinosaur, then I must be at the bottom of the tar-pit!
I still use an Arkansas stone.
I usually just touch up my EDC with a fine white Arkansas stone at about 15 degrees.
I prefer a circular motion on the stone because it's smooth and I don't have to remove the blade from the stone with every stroke. Some folks don't like the circular motion because it does'nt wear the blade evenly, but it does'nt bother me.

I also use water instead of oil.
Oil works fine but it's just more messy, so now I sharpen under running water at the kitchen sink.

Good luck,
Allen.
 
I build a primary edge of about 12 degrees usually with a washita hone unless I need something coarser (as in a new knife for reprofiling), then I build a secondary edge at 17 degrees with a hard Arkansas, If I want a smoother finish I use an extra fine ceramic hone and for the finest edge I strop.

To help maintain the angle while sharpening I keep the hone tilted and draw the blade across horizontally, a simple jig will keep the hone at proper angle and it´s easy to move the knife horizontally by hand, same principle as crocksticks but horizontal instead of vertical.
 
I try to replicate the angle of the factory edge, until I reprofile than for most medium sized folders, I try to make it somewhere between 20 & 22 deg.

I usually accomplish this freehand by laying the blade on the hone and tilting/lifting the spine up until the angle is matched, use a black sharpie to mark the edge till you get used to maintaining an angle. I also can't stress that you practice, practice, practice, when I say practice I'm not kidding. I figure since I was 12 I've probably sharpened 1,000+ knives,(ruined a few I'm sure:eek: :( :p :) :D )

This may help:

Having been sharpening my own blades for the last 30+ years I've come to notice a few things in regards to what you use to sharpen a knife. Diamond hones remove massive amounts of steel and sharpen a blade fast but even with the finest hone you will still need to finish your blade on a strop or ceramic hone to smooth out the edge. Always sharpen at the desired angle,(between 17-24 degrees, depending on the thickness of the blade) till you get a wire edge on one side, (the best way to feel for this is to slide your thumbnail from the spine side, or back of the blade towards the edge) when you encounter a wire edge it will feel like a little lip has formed where the wire edge has rolled over. Next sharpen the opposite side till you achieve the same result. Done on a Fine Diamond Hone, finish off by repeating the process using lighter pressure on each subsequent stroke and the wire edge will become smaller. When the wire edge is barely noticeable with your fingernail. Finish with a leather strop and stropping compound by applying a reasonable amount of force and dragging the blade backwards on the leather at a slightly less angle than you sharpened,(the leather will actually curl around the edge of the blade and wear off the wire edge) after a few strokes on the leather on both side you should have a finished edge. When the edge of the sharpened blade is rested on the smooth part of your thumbnail it will dig in, (bite into the nail with no additional pressure), Your knife should now be shaving sharp.

Diamonds are more aggressive and faster than wet stones or oilstones but will accomplish the same results with a smoother more polished edge, and depending on the grit of the stone may take a lot longer. The key either way is repetition, the more you perform the same task your brain starts memorizing the pathways through your body needed to accomplish this task. Eventually holding an angle, smoothness of stroke, all become second nature, and the task becomes easier. That’s why it always looks easier when someone else whose good at it does it.

My way is not the only way but it works for me, if you feel confident enough to attempt your own blades, start on a cheaper knife that your not afraid of ruining, and remember it’s easier to sharpen a knife that’s not dull, than to sharpen one that is. So don’t wait till your knife won’t even cut butter before you dress up that edge. LOL

PS as for my preference I prefer a diamond hone just because I think it's quicker, and more versatile I can accomplish the same thing with one hone by just varying pressure to the blade as I sharpen.
 
I got so many sharpening systems its disgusting. ... but when all is said and done I use 2 the most. my spyderco and my lansky.
When a blade just need touch up then its the spyderco
When the blade is real bad then its the lansky
I have a couple of diamond hones rigged for the lansky.
They move a lot of steel. Ok for bad real bad edges where you have to re profile them. Otherwise, I prefer to use thier stones.
On a side point, some steels just plain need diamonds. The steel today is getting harder and harder and diamonds are going to be the only way to go.
I use the spyderco after the lansky. I drive the wife nuts I usually do this during a tv show. I pull out the "dull" knives and stroke them.
The spyderco is kinda a no brainer I like it a lot.
AND it works
Oh sometime I pull out a strop and use that too. depends what mood I am in.
I have a peice of manilla folder on some wood.
BUT I kinda feel that my spyderco gets a knife sharp enough.
I guess that my 2 cents worth
Good luck sharpening
Jack
 
Originally posted by WorkForALiving
I'm using a Lansky with synthetic stones. I do use light strokes, but I may not be working it long enough with the coarse stone to set the angle all the way down to the point. I guess that I need pactice, practice, practice.;)

Mark your edge with a black Sharpie marker and then sharpen like you normally do. This will tell you if you are using the correct angle, and especially if you are actually removing any metal from the edge. You can sharpen all day long, but until you start hitting the edge, you are just wasting your time.

Mike
 
i just use a DMT diafold with a fine/extra fine grit...
Free hands...

Do you think that'll spoil the knife in some way...i do get the edge shaving sharp...i now have less hair on my left arm because of this...

It's just that before i've only been using cheapo knives but the Benchmade 721 is arriving tomorrow and i don't really wanna spoil it by sharpening it the wrong way...

What do you think is the best sharpening system? I have a convex ground blade as well and don't really know how to sharpen this...
 
Point44,

Don't sharpen your knife until it needs it. Most blade maintenance can be done with a good quality steel and leather strop. This helps your blade last longer because sharpening removes metal, while using a steel will draw your edge back out without removing metal. Therefore, your blade will last longer. Most knives when they seem dull are only that way because the edge has rolled over. This is corrected with the steel and strop. Only sharpen your knife when using a steel and strop won't get your edge back to good shape.

Mike
 
Man...i'm gonna sound stupid here...but where do you get the steel and strop?

Steel are those rod thingies you sharpen your kitchen knife with right?

Right now i don't really know where to get the strop from...

I'm new to knife sharpening...
 
Allow me to point you to an excellent site that can take care of both needs. They make very high quality steels, and leather hones. They also have very good instructions on how to use a steel and a hone. The site is HandAmerican. I have a half groove 9" steel that is as smoothe as glass on one side and has very fine grooves that won't remove any steel on the other. It comes with a nice tanned leather sheath that can be used for a final finish if you strop your edge after steeling it. I also ordered a ProCombo 10" leather hone which has 2 removeable double-sided leather plates that are 10" by 3". These plates fit into a sturdy heavy corian base to keep your hone where you put it. You can choose two different grits of Silicone Carbide to use on one of the plates (different grit on each side). The other plate has their high quality tanned treated leather on one side that you use nothing on, and the other side is untreated pressed leather that you can use CRO2 on. I cannot recommend them enough. I have actually recommended them so much here since I ordered mine, I'm beginning to sound like I work for them. Check out their site, and read up on using a steel and strop. It will definitely make your edges last longer, and will keep them sharper than just sharpening alone.

Mike
 
It is hard to see, but that is a closed 806D2 on the hone for size comparison. The light colored plate is labled for the 800 grit and 1200 grit Silicone Carbide that I chose to go with the combo.

Mike
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For the convex edge you may want to do a search for the method using sandpaper on a mousepad, there´s a thread somewhere that mentions it.
 
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