Where do you get your Leaf Springs for your blades and how much do they cost usually?

You can get good blade steel for about $1 per inch or less
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=699736



The link above is the Knifemaking Suppliers List.
It is also listed in the Standard Reply to New Knifemakers that I posted to your last question.

Those links and pages in the standard reply will answer most all of your questions.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...how-to-get-the-bolts-in?p=9761859#post9761859



For many beginners 1084FG from Aldo is the most reccomended steel.
It's forgiving, inexpensive and easy to work with, especially if you intend to Heat treat yourself.


I myself prefer precision ground steel. It starts clean, straight and smooth.
It's more expensive, but not too much more when I consider the time saved in finishing.
 
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Welcome to the forums Frank.
I would suggest you read the stickys info that "The Count" linked. Most questions by new makers and forumites are there.

Short answer to your question - I find leaf springs on my car.They work great for bumps in the road. I leave them there,since I don't make cars ......... and use a known blade steel for making knives.
If you can't afford the $10 or so it will cost, there are several makers here ( myself included) that will send you a piece of good steel.

Filling out you whole profile may help,too, as what is there doesn't tell us much. Age helps a lot, as does occupation.
 
Welcome to the forums.
Stacy gives excellent advice, having made knives from old leaf springs, they are shot full of micro cracks by the time they get taken off of a car (which is usually because one of the cracks propagated until it went all the way through) I say don't. I have made successful knives from leaf springs, but it's a crapshoot. If you are looking for 5160 which is what the books tell you leaf springs are made from, get if from Aldo

http://njsteelbaron.com/index.php?p...category_id=9&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=55

If you are looking for an easy to work beginner steel, I would recommend Aldo's1084 (I use this steel a lot)

http://njsteelbaron.com/index.php?p...category_id=9&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=55

Fill out your profile, you could be living next door to an ABS Master smith who would be willing to teach you and not even realize it

-Page
 
When I started out I went to a place that sold NEW leaf springs. I don't remember what the prices were, but since I was doing stock removal they were way too thick to work with. I agree with the advice of getting new, known steel. Are you forging or doing stock removal? Are you just beginning or have you made knives before? What sort of equipment do you have to work with?

- Paul Meske
 
Call Aldo at NJ Steel Baron, his 5160 is a steal and his shipping and service is unbeatable.
 
There seems to be an urban legend that spring shops will sell you 5160 for decent prices :) I went by Atlas Spring in Austin, and the prices they were quoting for 5160 cutoffs ended up being around $8/lb :(

And like Paul says, the automotive spring drops are mostly 2+" wide and .25" thick and up...

Aldo charges $4/lb. Still 1/4" thick, but he has narrower strips.
 
Actually Lazlo, We're working on that. As it turns out, a lot of the 5160 that is thinner and narrower than 1/4 x1 1/2 is 5150. It also seems that a lot of the smaller sizes are a bit more expensive. Having the heavier stuff rolled thinner, in the case of 5160 is also very expensive. We are actually heading out to PA next week that has some pretty impressive grinding equipment. REALLY BIG STUFF. If we strike a bargain then we just leave some of the 1/4" on the floor and BANG! 3/16. Yes it will cost more. You also get what you are looking for and the Certs. don't change! We'll know if it's thumbs up or down in about a week.

frankmask123 - I'd rather see you with the 1084. Just a good steel to start with. I know a lot of guys who will probably finish with it to. As for what Stacy said I not only agree, and would be happy to send you a piece to try. Give us a call. We are at your disposal.
 
Actually Lazlo, .............. and would be happy to send you a piece to try. Give us a call. We are at your disposal.

Aldo, I don't know ? :confused::( That is sort of like giving away free Crack samples to school kids!!!!! :eek: :mad: Gets them hooked the first time.;):D
 
Aldo, I don't know ? :confused::( That is sort of like giving away free Crack samples to school kids!!!!! :eek: :mad: Gets them hooked the first time.;):D

You say that like it's a bad thing. ;)
Start the new guys with the good stuff and they won't be tempted by the junk.
 
frankmask123 - I'd rather see you with the 1084. Just a good steel to start with. I know a lot of guys who will probably finish with it to.

I like high-alloy steels a lot, but if 1084 was the only steel you could possibly get, you could still make excellent knives and put a very confident guarantee on them :)
 
I am inclined to agree James. Although that's not going to stop me from finishing up the CPM-M4 Machete I'm working on!:D
 
CPM-M4 machete? Ooooh I like that idea! I've worked with a few feet of CPM-3V and like it very much, haven't tried the M4 yet.
 
Aldo, do you carry CPM M4 now? :) I don't see it on your web page?

Also, I sent you a couple of emails about that 80CRV2 you had -- have any more for sale?

Thanks!

Robert
 
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