Where to find a good machinist to modify assisted folder?

d2eux

d2eux

Joined
Oct 10, 2010
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For those of you who wanted to make an assisted knife manual, like the ZT0301, did you have any success adding a detent to turn the knife into a manual? Isnt it possible to mess up the heat treat if not careful?

I was always curious about doing it but could never find a machinist willing, plus concerns about heat treat as well.

Is it needed? No, it’s more about seeking to add an additional feature, making the knife become a manual if I chose to do so. So yes, its currently assisted, but it *could* become a manual folder.
 
SOLEIL said:
how about getting another knife that will meet your needs instead of risking damage to a viable blade? there is no shortage of knives out there
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Thats a fair point I ask because those who have done it say it makes the knife ‘better’ as a manual, so myself being impressionable would like to know the risks involved and if its worth the hassle
 
d2eux said:
For those of you who wanted to make an assisted knife manual, like the ZT0301, did you have any success adding a detent to turn the knife into a manual? Isnt it possible to mess up the heat treat if not careful?

I was always curious about doing it but could never find a machinist willing, plus concerns about heat treat as well.

Is it needed? No, it’s more about seeking to add an additional feature, making the knife become a manual if I chose to do so. So yes, its currently assisted, but it *could* become a manual folder.
Click to expand...

I have some vague memory from back in the day of folks taking Kershaw Blur knives and making them manual by removing the torque spring. But I have no memory of folks adding a detent.
You might run a search for threads on that to see what you find.

Your other option might be to post here:

Wanted: Knifemaker / Craftsman / Related Services

Have a knife design you want built? Heat treating needs? Damascus Desires? Embellishment Enquiries? Creative Customization Curiosity? This is your place to solicit work. Anyone can post threads, however ONLY KnifeMaker / Craftsman / Materials Providers may reply to threads
www.bladeforums.com www.bladeforums.com
 
knarfeng said:
I have some vague memory from back in the day of folks taking Kershaw Blur knives and making them manual by removing the torque spring. But I have no memory of folks adding a detent.
You might run a search for threads on that to see what you find.

Your other option might be to post here:

Wanted: Knifemaker / Craftsman / Related Services

Have a knife design you want built? Heat treating needs? Damascus Desires? Embellishment Enquiries? Creative Customization Curiosity? This is your place to solicit work. Anyone can post threads, however ONLY KnifeMaker / Craftsman / Materials Providers may reply to threads
www.bladeforums.com www.bladeforums.com
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Thank you I will post an inquiry
 
I've never deassisted a 301, but have deassisted a couple 566s and they work fine that way. The detent could be stronger, but it's not difficult to fire it hard enough to lock up solid. I can even flick it open with the thumbstuds.

You could try a 301 and if you don't like it you can put the torsion bar back in.
 
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killgar said:
Grinding a detent divot into a blade won't affect the heat treat. We're only talking about a very shallow, small diameter divot in the thickest part of the blade.
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I see, thank you. Here’s something I did not consider: with the new divot, will that mean the spring
bar will no longer be able to function?
 
d2eux said:
I see, thank you. Here’s something I did not consider: with the new divot, will that mean the spring
bar will no longer be able to function?
Click to expand...
The torsion bar should still work, but the initial pressure to open would increase even with the torsion bar removed. The detent is just the initial resistance to opening that needs to be overcome so the blade can open.
Easy answer ...it would make it more difficult to open ... to some maybe uncomfortable on their fingers.

The reason some assisted knives don't open great deassisted is the detent is too light so when you put pressure on the flipper tab it breaks free without building up enough pressure to allow it to flip open with enough force to lockup solid. Since the detent is light when assisted the amount of pressure it would require to get past the detent would increase so it would change the ease of how it operated assisted.

That's why I had said the 566s I've deassisted could benefit from a bit firmer detent, but they still can be operated fine without the torsion bar. It's just a matter of learning to preload pressure on the flipper tab or use the thumbstuds to flick the blade open much like many people flick non assisted knives open anyway. And you have to be very aware to not hold it so you're putting any pressure on the lockbar or it may not open fully.

And every assisted knife that I've deassisted is a little different. Some work great some not as well, but almost all were functional they just take a bit of learning each. The only ones that haven't worked at all were because the detent was so light so as it would not hold the blade closed so it could shake open easily and made it dangerous to carry.

The good thing at least is that it's not too difficult to remove the torsion bar and try it and if you don't like it you can simply put it back in. That would give let you know if the knife you have would even need any type of modification to the detent.
 
d2eux said:
I see, thank you. Here’s something I did not consider: with the new divot, will that mean the spring
bar will no longer be able to function?
Click to expand...

I don't know how the ZT0301 is constructed, so I can't answer your question. I can only speak on the subject of overheating the blade. I have a lot of experience drilling finished/hardened blades.
 
Danke42 said:
Doesn't that knife already have a detent on the lockbar and a hole in the blade?
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According to this disassembly video, it has a detent ball, but not the detent hole/divot in the blade. It does have a hole in the blade for the torsion spring.

 
Funny story (or not) this got me curious enough to take mine apart for a look at the spring.

I have never liked mine because it was always very sluggish even with a hard flip. Now it's firing like I expected it would have originally. Maybe the pivot was done up stupid tight.
 
d2eux said:
Thats a fair point I ask because those who have done it say it makes the knife ‘better’ as a manual, so myself being impressionable would like to know the risks involved and if its worth the hassle
Click to expand...
better is a total interpretation of the user, better is not always better
 
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