Where to purchase Flitz?

Joined
Feb 24, 2006
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In reading the rust removal threads in the HI forum, I decided to get a tube of Flitz. I've found it online, but was wondering if ya'll commonly find it at a neighborhood retail store of some sort.

Mineral Oil and Hooflex I think I've got covered, but where do you pick up your flitz and CLP from?
 
I've gotten Flitz from the large hardware/home improvement shops (Home Depot, Loews and such). May find it at places like Walmart as well. I use Breakfree CLP, and find it at almost any place that sells guns. Walmart has it at my location as well.

PS. Flitz is more of a very fine polish, and it will usually only work on the mildest rust, depending on the extent of it. You may need to first use something else to remove it, before actually using the Flitz to perform the final polish.
 
Flitz - Any auto store.
CLP - Any of the Mart stores.
 
What section of the WM or HD do you look for Flitz. I've gotten blank stares a few times trying to find it.
 
JimmyJimenez said:
PS. Flitz is more of a very fine polish, and it will usually only work on the mildest rust, depending on the extent of it. You may need to first use something else to remove it, before actually using the Flitz to perform the final polish.

Thanks for the heads up Jimmy. I received a good Balance last night, as well as a blem M-43 by Kumar. As Yangdu warned me, the M-43 had rust. Turned out to be about 7 spots, and it was pitted. After removing the yeti juice with a little dawn and water and drying it off with a microfiber towel and then a good elbow-grease paper towel rubbing (which removed most of the orange rust), I started with a couple erasers, white and pink, just out of curiosity. All the erasers did was further polish the knife, removing a film that wasn't visible to the eye until its absence was obviously different and highly glossed.

Next up was Kaboom. On a different spot I tried CLR. The Kaboom did the trick after sitting about 2 minutes and then scrubbing with an old toothbrush. CLR changed the surface a little more than the Kaboom and didn't seem to lift the rust up and out as well.

Next up was the Dremel. I tried the plastic bristles as I don't have a brass wire wheel yet. That did nothing. I tried the steel wire wheel on an unfortunately conspicuous spot. That scratched it up and didn't really change the look of the now black pits. It also changed the color of the steel some, bit of a yellowish hue starting around the edge of the old rust spot. I only had it on setting 2, but perhaps I shouldn't have done that at all. Sorry if this makes anyone cringe; wish I had a mentor here in Houston to show me the ropes.

Next I tried this pad from Home Depot paint dept in hopes that it would do better than the wire wheel. It claimed to replace 000 steel wool and not rust. It reminded me of Scotch Brite. It scratched like Scotch Brite too, even though I used WD-40 as a lubricant while I rubbed..

Giving up on cleaning out the pits or scratching my poor M-43 any further, I next used one of the dense fabric Dremel wheel pads. I hoped that would be like the buffing wheel ya'll mention in the HI forum. That was OK, but didn't return the mirror finish or remove the scratches like I was hoping.

That's why I'm now asking about the Flitz to polish it, and the CLP to protect it. Thanks for the info! Feel free to correct my very novice method. I'll post some pics soon in case anyone can offer better advice with visuals.

bc
 
Mtn, Is this a user blade, or a display blade? If its a user stop effing with it. Those pits won't hurt the performance, and once oiled prevent further rust in those spots. Also if its a user, and you've got it scratched up trying to remove the rust, take that scotchbrite and villager the entire blade evenly. Then you won't even know its scratched. Voala. I'm jealous, by the way, I don't have an M43.
 
My local Home Depots carry this thing called "Maas" instead of Flitz.

It's in a blue reflective square box, in the cleaning supplies aisle. It's next to the Brasso, Windex, and other cleaning supplies.
 
aproy1101 said:
Mtn, Is this a user blade, or a display blade?...I'm jealous, by the way, I don't have an M43.

Well, given what I've done to the finish, it will probably have to end up being a user eventually. It had the mirror finish.

All I did was email Yangdu and tell her I wanted a Balance by Khadka, an M-43 by anybody, and a BDC by Bura. She came through on two counts!

Heading to the woods tonight for a father-son campout; think I'll take the 13" Balance since the 17" M-43 or 18" AK might make the other fathers there a mite nervous.

bc
 
mtnfalcon said:
<snip

Next up was the Dremel. I tried the plastic bristles as I don't have a brass wire wheel yet. That did nothing. I tried the steel wire wheel on an unfortunately conspicuous spot. That scratched it up and didn't really change the look of the now black pits. It also changed the color of the steel some, bit of a yellowish hue starting around the edge of the old rust spot. I only had it on setting 2, but perhaps I shouldn't have done that at all. Sorry if this makes anyone cringe; wish I had a mentor here in Houston to show me the ropes.

<snip>

You are in Houston!!! Then I have a solution for you...(no pun intended with 'solution')
There is an Evapo-Rust distributor in North Houston...
http://www.orisonllc.com/corrosion/evaporust/evapo-rust.html
http://www.orisonmarketing.com/corrosion/evaporust/evapo-rust.html
This is the most amazing stuff for removing rust you have ever seen...
This stuff will get inside of pits and just keep working until there is no rust left...
Here is how it work for anyone out there that knows enough chemistry...
evapo-rust%20work.jpg


This is nothing that was covered in my chemistry classes, but then I was no good at it, and I do not think that the picture is an exact representation anyway, but it will give you the idea...
It really does work though, and you can use it over and over even when the liquid has turned black(It will just get much slower)...
 
Oh my! You threw everything at it except the kitchen sink ;)

Trial and error is a good way of learning things, that's for sure :)

If you still have a bit of rust you want to remove from the pitting, consider a substance called "naval jelly" or "evapo-rust" (as mentioned above). Just apply it to the area needed, not to the surounding areas. It sometimes does a bit of discoloring itself (typically kinda greyish), but that will be gone when you do the next step (just make sure to follow the instructions that come with it).

Since some of the methods you used may have scratched the surfaces well beyond what Flitz can restore, you may want to try the following.......

You may want to go to your local Home Improvement store (Home Depot or Loews would be fine) and seek out some buffing wheel compound that can be purchased in form of a solid stick. These compounds are used as one would use jewelers rouge and such. You don't need a mechanical buffing wheel, just some good-ole tough cotton cloths. Wrap your index finger with this cloth, then briskly rub the compound stick (working the compound into the cloth). Then buff the area that needs the minor scratch removal and such. What grade of compound coarseness will all depend on the level required to get the job done. One works with this stuff as one would sand a piece of fine furniture before applying it's finish. Example: Lets say you can get the hard work done with 150 grit sandpaper, after that you may choose to follow with 220 grit (smoothing things out a bit, and greatly removing the heavier scratches that the 150 grit left behind). Then you may choose to follow with 320 grit, which will even further achieve the reduction of visable scratches and further work to give an even smoother wood surface.
When you purchase the compounds, you get them almost as you would get sandpaper for a wood furniture project (kinda like.... coarse, less coarse, medium, fine, extra fine).
Flitz is still good, but if one were to look at it in the wood example I just gave, it would translate to one going all the way to something like 1000+ grit in wood sandpaper.

Flitz is really not considered an abrasive at all, though it does work as such, but at an "extremely" low level. A "quality final maintenance polish", is what I consider Flitz to be. What one could choose to maintain and help restore high polishes, but also doubling as an extremely light polish that will remove some very mild scratches and very mild surface rust :)
 
James,

I have heard that the Evapo-Rust is a much improved method of removing rust, well surpassing that of the old stand by............. naval jelly (though it too works). Can you tell me of any well known chain stores that may carry it (sounds like a must have in ones arsenal) ;)

Thanks in advance :)


PS.

mtnfalcon,

Just feel free to ask away, buddy,................ I'm sure that with our combined suggestions, you will be able to make your specimens into "lookers" as well as "users" ;)
 
I ordered Flitz online for years, but finally found a reliable source at a good price, and that is the local Spa dealer. Evidently it's just the thing for removing water stains from the interior of the molded fiberglass (?) spas, and that's what the manufacturer of ours recommends.

I was in there for some other stuff and found a bunch of it on display, so try that before you try to ferret it out at HD or an auto store that may or may not have it.

For knife polishing in particular, I still use Flitz for most metal work, but the Simichrome polish works just a bit better I think and gives a brilliant shine. That can be a bit harder to find so i just get it online.

For bad rust I always use a green sctotch brite pad soaked with 30 weight or Superoil or WD-40 and scrub away. Haven't had anything that wouldn't take care of, and leaves a satin finish that holds oil better so protects longer. Final polish with Flitz or Simichrome, then a coating of Ballistol, Rust-Free, or Ren wax and back in the scabbard.

Norm
 
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