I have always used Stropman black first and Flexcut Gold second on my leather strops. I want a more aggressive compound than the Stropman black. Which compounds are more aggressive? I don't mind trying a paste or another type of compound. Thanks for any replies.
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Which aggressive compound should I buy?
- Thread starter 777zzz
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- Apr 12, 2009
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Depends what you mean by 'aggressive'(?). Are you looking for a more toothy (coarser) finish, or a more aggressive (faster) polisher?
Even very coarse compounds, like black, on a leather strop tend to polish more, due to the softness and compressibility of the leather. If you're wanting a more toothy bite in your edge, you're better off doing that on a stone. Then for stropping after, you want to use something that isn't too aggessive in removing those teeth. Or better yet, do the stropping on a bare substrate (leather, denim, wood, heavy cardboard) without compound.
If you're wanting a faster polisher, most of the aluminum oxide stick 'buffing' compounds in grey or white do that very well. Works especially well on a hard-backed denim strop, as the denim can take a very dense loading of compound, which makes for very fast polishing and even shaping (to a convex). That is what I think of as 'aggressive', in terms of how fast it works in metal removal and speed to a high polish.
Even very coarse compounds, like black, on a leather strop tend to polish more, due to the softness and compressibility of the leather. If you're wanting a more toothy bite in your edge, you're better off doing that on a stone. Then for stropping after, you want to use something that isn't too aggessive in removing those teeth. Or better yet, do the stropping on a bare substrate (leather, denim, wood, heavy cardboard) without compound.
If you're wanting a faster polisher, most of the aluminum oxide stick 'buffing' compounds in grey or white do that very well. Works especially well on a hard-backed denim strop, as the denim can take a very dense loading of compound, which makes for very fast polishing and even shaping (to a convex). That is what I think of as 'aggressive', in terms of how fast it works in metal removal and speed to a high polish.
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When I sharpen with my King waterstones from 1000 grit to 6000 grit then strop with the Stropman black then Flexcut Gold on my leather strops, I get my knives shaving sharp every time easily. Getting the edges shaving sharp with these two compounds after the 6000 grit stone takes little time. I just wanted to minimize the frequency that I have to get the stones out. Grabbing a strop is so much easier than messing with the stones. But I guess the best thing to do is to use the 6000 grit stone when the edge gets to the point that resharpening on a strop will take too long.
I can't feel grit in the Stropman black compound when rubbing it between my fingers.
I can't feel grit in the Stropman black compound when rubbing it between my fingers.
You should be able to avoid using the #6000 stone to refresh the edge. However leather may not be the best medium to hold a coarser compound. Are you adverse to stropping on balsa or basswood? Have you tried stropping on P1000 sandpaper wrapped over the leather strop?
I like Clover valve grinding compound. You can get it in a variety of grits. My preference is for 1200 grit silicon carbide, but it comes in coarse grits as well. You may want 600. It is in a thick grease, and works well on a good strop. I don’t think that you need anything finer than 1200 grit for knife blades, but it is all up to the user. I go finer with Norton diamond paste for tool blades, but this depends on the tool and intended use.
