- Joined
- Feb 12, 2007
- Messages
- 26
Hi, I have a Lansky sharpening system, it has set in angles of 30, 25, 20, and 17. Which angle would be best to use? The edge will only have to take on tape, paper, cardboard, and an occasional thin rope.
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which angle?
- Thread starter hunter3030
- Start date
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- Jan 4, 1999
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- 3,000
The answer depends on the hardness of the blade and the application to which you want to put it. Cardboard is actually pretty tough on edges. Without more information, I would probably advise you to use the 20 degree option which, incidentally, is more acute than 20 degrees and see how that goes. If the edges hold up, then you can keep that option or try something more acute. If the edges fail by folding over, then you need to move to a more obtuse angle.
By the way, be sure to grind new bevels with the coarse stone with whichever angle you choose. After that, you can sharpen them effectively. But the angle on the blade and the angle on the sharpening fixture need to be in synch. Take care.
By the way, be sure to grind new bevels with the coarse stone with whichever angle you choose. After that, you can sharpen them effectively. But the angle on the blade and the angle on the sharpening fixture need to be in synch. Take care.
I agree, depends on the blade geometry. A thin blade of tough steel can take a 17, but good luck getting a 17 on a thick blade. Also a 17 will lose its sharpness faster if not in an optimum match with the steel. Like KO said, start with the 20, and if it dulls too fast for your liking, move up to a 25. I do my initial edge bevel with the coarse, then use the medium and fine. After the first sharpening, I use coarse briefly to raise a burr and then take the burr off, then polish with the medium and fine.
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2006
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I agree! 17 is still a very thick angle on a blade, unless you're cutting wire or rebar.
I am glad the GATCO will go down to 11°. That is what I use on my kitchen cutlery. On my other blades I go with 15°, 19°, 22° whichever works depending on the blade.
You do not need a fine edge for:
I like to let the blade tell me what is best. I usually sharpen to a smaller angle than factory to start.
Use the blade a little and if the edge holds up and slices good I will call it good.
If the edge holds up but I feel that the blade could do more I go shallower.
If the edge doesn't hold up i go up a notch.
I have yet to find a blade in my small collection tha did not benefit and tolerate a shallower than factory sharpening angle.
You do not need a fine edge for:
I like to let the blade tell me what is best. I usually sharpen to a smaller angle than factory to start.
Use the blade a little and if the edge holds up and slices good I will call it good.
If the edge holds up but I feel that the blade could do more I go shallower.
If the edge doesn't hold up i go up a notch.
I have yet to find a blade in my small collection tha did not benefit and tolerate a shallower than factory sharpening angle.
- Joined
- Sep 19, 2001
- Messages
- 8,968
all you will end up with is a wider edge bevel, 17 degrees is still 17 degrees
I don't know why people keep saying this. Buck's 'Edge 2K' was just a lower angle. I sharpen my knives between 10 to 13 degrees per side. There is no issue with edge life for normal cutting tasks.
David Martin
Moderator
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- Apr 7, 2008
- Messages
- 19,520
Hardheart, I'm glad someone can articulate with accuracy in this post. DM
hunter3030,
Just had my .30-30 out. Those Hornady LEVERevolution rounds are fantastic.
The nice thing about sharpening your own is that you can try different angles and see what works for you and your blade.
Just had my .30-30 out. Those Hornady LEVERevolution rounds are fantastic.
The nice thing about sharpening your own is that you can try different angles and see what works for you and your blade.
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2006
- Messages
- 2,809
Why would you sharpen it? Those are cheap enough to throw away and buy a new replacement.
If I really wanted to sharpen one of them, I'd get a V shaped carbide pull through! :barf:
