Which axe....?

Don Adelfson

Don Adelfson

Joined
Oct 12, 2001
Messages
579
Been around knives all my life...and BF for several years.

Now I find myself in need of an axe (or a big hatchet?)...to split 2' to 3' oak logs into firewood size pieces. Am a novice in this area...what are the high end axes; the very best??
 
Don Adelfson said:
Been around knives all my life...and BF for several years.

Now I find myself in need of an axe (or a big hatchet?)...to split 2' to 3' oak logs into firewood size pieces. Am a novice in this area...what are the high end axes; the very best??
Click to expand...
Well home splitting is job that generally doesn't require a too good axe and is a quite damaging job if you have loads of wood to split. I'd go for a pretty heavy hardware store axe (just check grain), or a fiber glass handle maul.
I keep good axes for roles where they really shine (felling, limbing...), sure they could split but I wouldn't see too much difference with a cheap axe (actually GB-SFA is a bit less good then cheap axes for splitting since it's finer it doesn't help to split, and highly polished grind doesn't stick well in wood which is a problem- at least in my splitting technique).
 
Actually, for splitting logs one should opt to choose either a splitting axe or, a splitting maul. If you want to split big logs you may need a splitting maul and wedges. Axe heads are designed for cutting. Their polls are not designed for heavy pounding. Splitting mauls though can afford that. Gransfors Bruks are well known for their quality products and they offer two splitting axes, one splitting maul and a splitting wedge. These are specialized tools exactly made for this task.

I hope that helps.
 
Appreciate the information above...one of my favorite things about BF; the wealth of information that is easily accessible.

That said, I've ordered a Gransfors Bruks splitting axe; 2 lb head with a 20" hickory handle.
 
Don Adelfson said:
Appreciate the information above...one of my favorite things about BF; the wealth of information that is easily accessible.

That said, I've ordered a Gransfors Bruks sp:thumbup: litting axe; 2 lb head with a 20" hickory handle.
Click to expand...

You won't be disappointed
 
I have a Fiskars axe that is absolutly awesome for the price. It feels good to swing, and holds a very good edge. I also carry a Gerber camp axe when I am working around the yard. It stays razor sharp, is easy to carry, and is priced right. The Gerber is not big eniugh to split with, but to skin the little branches of a downed tree it is AWESOME.

If you are going to be splitting a lot of wood, look into the little sliding splitters from Harbor Freight or Great Plains. They are cheap and work great.

Good Luck!
 
That said, I've ordered a Gransfors Bruks splitting axe; 2 lb head with a 20" hickory handle.
Click to expand...
That will be perfect for the task you described. enjoy!
 
Don Adelfson said:
Appreciate the information above...one of my favorite things about BF; the wealth of information that is easily accessible.

That said, I've ordered a Gransfors Bruks splitting axe; 2 lb head with a 20" hickory handle.
Click to expand...

I think this is a choice you will be happy with. Enjoy it and let us know of your experience with it.

Have fun.
 
Oops! I misread the OP as 2-3 "inches" (thinking diameter)
instead of 2-3 'feet'.
That GB splitting axe is a great fireside tool for splitting smaller stuff and for kindling but it might not be enough horsepower for 2-3 FEET if that is diameter or length of logs. You need a long and heavy maul for the big stuff. Metalurgy and edge quality are not real important. That stuff that is too big to lift is outside work. I keep an inexpensive fiberglass-handled maul and a couple wedges for the big stuff behind the barn.
Sorry bout that.
:o
Hey Don,
Didn't I sell you a knife (Dozier I think) some time back?
I don't think You were in Nazereth then. I would have remebered the birthplace of my vintage Martin D-28 (C.F. Martin and Co. makers of fine guitars since 1833). :thumbup:
 
For what you intend to do you don't need the "top of the line". When I first got into the firewood business I split 70 cords one year with a $20 maul from Sears. The next year I got a hydraulic splitter. Now I still split the 7 cords a year for my own home by hand. For the size logs you are working up any 3-4 pound axe will do. I go to flea markets, buy up old axeheads for $5 or so, clean them up, sharpen them. re-handle them and go to work. Total cost $15 or so.
 
JW said:
Oops! I misread the OP as 2-3 "inches" (thinking diameter)
instead of 2-3 'feet'.
That GB splitting axe is a great fireside tool for splitting smaller stuff and for kindling but it might not be enough horsepower for 2-3 FEET if that is diameter or length of logs. You need a long and heavy maul for the big stuff. Metalurgy and edge quality are not real important. That stuff that is too big to lift is outside work. I keep an inexpensive fiberglass-handled maul and a couple wedges for the big stuff behind the barn.
Sorry bout that.
:o
Hey Don,
Didn't I sell you a knife (Dozier I think) some time back?
I don't think You were in Nazereth then. I would have remebered the birthplace of my vintage Martin D-28 (C.F. Martin and Co. makers of fine guitars since 1833). :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Well..how this all worked out is...the 2.5 lb splitting axe was, indeed, too small...very nice cutting tool, though.

Got a GB 5 1/2 lb splitting maul and all is well...at least with the logs splitting.

I'd like to know how you veteran wood splitters keep the log standing up and what sort of base you split on...I learned quickly that concrete was not good :(

(PS-This past September I retired and moved to the Lehigh Valley from Oceanside, CA..my daughter got a job teaching at Lafayette College in Easton, PA...I'm in Nazareth; within walking distance of Mario Andretti's house and a little bit longer walk to the C.F. Martin Guitar factory.)
 
Don Adelfson said:
how you keep the log standing up and what sort of base you split on...
Click to expand...
Try to split on a chopping block or spare log on dirt or grass. Once you've got enough choped logs you can spread them on ground around the block as a protective layer for both ground and edge.

How long are your logs?

If they are pretty short, I'd use a chopping log. If you can't get one you can still use one large spare log as an improvised chopping log. If you got the GB maul, well the "axe book" explains pretty well how to split.
I've personally never used a maul on chopping log though. I personnally use a 2lbs hardware store axe and use the 2 steps method pictured on page 20:
http://www.gransfors.com/downloads/franskyxbok/12.html
(sorry couldn't find the english html version)
With a maul step one should be enough.

If logs are long (over, say 2-3 feet). You can split those lying horizontaly. Technique is a bit different.
 
My woodpile is behind the barn so the wife doesn't care how hillbilly that space looks. I have a couple short tree rounds on end for "chopping blocks."
One is level and the other is angled so I can always get a log to stand for splitting. Both are within old tires and about the same diameter as the hole in the tire. This helps keep my "chopping blocks" in place and gives a little extra protection for when/if the maul kicks out.
I'm going to be splitting some tomorrow. They split really easy, almost explode, when it's -10 degrees outside.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top