Which bench sander???

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Jul 6, 2010
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:confused:Hey folks. Trying to narrow down my options here in Newfoundland Canada. Looking into a belt sander that will accept all the neccessary sharpening belts including leather. I have been looking at these as I can get them locally. But any recommendations will help. I want to get this sharpening gig going on the side asap befpre the local big game season.

http://www.thetoolstore.ca/view.asp...0&-39;&-39;-Belt-and-Disc-Sander-KC-702C_4127

http://www.portercable.com/Products/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=24033

A bit green here so is there anything I should avoid or look for in a product. Belt speed? Angles and such?

Cheers

Mark
 
If you want to sharpen on a semi-pro or professional level, I would very highly recommend the Kalamazoo SM1. You're looking about $200, and it will use every belt you could ever want, including SurgiSharp leather ones, of course. It has a third-horsepower Baldor sealed, fan-cooled motor, and is built like a tank.

This is where I got mine, and I'd buy it again in a heartbeat. Works awesomely well, I use it for sharpening down at a local sporting goods place myself.

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=505-1371&PMPXNO=952569&PARTPG=INLMK32

If shipping is a tad steep, Lee Valley offers some very good stuff as well, I just can't attest to it's performance myself. I would highly suggest the 1x42 one there, if you're actually limited to the two you listed. You'll find a much wider variation of sharpening belts for that size. :thumbup:
 
Any disadvantage to using a 30" belt as opposed to the 45? I'm leaning towards the 30" king model as I can get this one locally. I guess I could order some leather belts from surgisharp to complete the kit. Thanks brother
 
The 30-inch belt is every bit as capable of producing a great edge as the 42". I prefer the longer belt for it's additional 12 linear inches of surface area, that's an additional 40% abrasive per belt over a 30", but they will both work just fine for you. More important is the belt speed, generally a slower speed is better than a fast one. Again, both work, you just have to be more careful with the fast belt, since it takes metal off faster, and also heats the blade faster. First thing you'll want to do is dump all the 'safety' guards off of it, they get in the way of fast belt changes and really don't offer any protection.

In Canada, Lee Valley offers a very good selection of belts for sharpening, including the SurgiSharp leather belts in 1x30".
 
Hey, no problem. I have a friend named Doug Rising who helped me immeasurably getting started, so I'm glad to pass on the advice anywhere I can. :)

If you need help picking belts or anything like that, I'd be glad to assist where I can.
 
You should be able to get all the stuff you need domestically, the requirements are not particularly stringent or involved. Lee Valley would still probably be my choice, they have many distributors in Canada, and a very good offering of belts. I started out with a couple each of 120, 220, 320, and 400-grit aluminium-oxide belts, followed with a 15-micron and a 9 micron microfinishing belt. All of those are readily available from Lee, or any one of several other online sources. I used EconAbrasives myself, but I don't know about their shipping charges to Canada, they're US-based.

As a finishing step, two leather belts are worth your while, one loaded with green compound, one with white. Bark River compounds are reputed to be good for it, I used Econ's house brand. They come in one-pound sticks that are enough for ten lifetimes, the usage rate is very slow. I run my belts rough-side-out, but they work either way.

I use a different kind of belt now, a "Trizact" belt from 3M, custom-made by Doug, but for starting out and your first couple hundred knives, the AO belts work great, and are a very inexpensive way to get into practice. I still use them for rough shaping, or when a knife is in really bad shape. I generally start with a sharp 220 grit, or a worn 180 for my first pass (you'll get a feel for which belt to start with fairly quick, the worse-off the knife is, the coarser a belt you want to use). That raises a burr in just a couple passes, then I start stepping my grit down as required. For a fast sharpening, a 180-grit, followed by a 320 and stropping on leather with green compound puts a very good working edge on that will most likely exceed a factory edge. Using the micron belts after the 400, then the leather will produce an edge that not many people have ever had a chance to use, and will blow a factory one right out of the water. :)

Watch your temperature, especially near the tip. If you start to feel any heat in the blade at all, just give it a quick dip into a water jug. I personally use a large disposable water bottle that I hacked the top off of. Works great, holds plenty of water, and was free. As a rule of thumb, a coarse belt removes material with a lot less heat build-up than a fine one, so use as coarse a belt as you can to get the result you desire. That way, you have to dip less often and save time. It's really not that big of a deal, as long as you're mindful of the heat build-up, you won't trash a knife. I generally dip the blade after every couple passes, just as cheap insurance. The rag you wipe it off on also serves well to identify burrs, by leaving fuzz on them with each dip-and-wipe.
 
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