Which blade design for ultimate big game hunting knife

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cjcox

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My friend is making me a knife and he asked me to research and locate a blade blank that I would like. I am struggling to decide which style would be best based on the type of use it will get. I big game hunt primarily deer and elk and prefer a well balanced knife (don't like the handle to be significantly larger or heavier than the blade), and I prefer a thin handle as I like to ride up on the blade when skinning. I am looking for a knife design that will function great for breaking down big game animals including skinning and in field boning out an elk.

I am really partial to this design:
http://www.texasknife.com/vcom/product_info.php?cPath=119_299_1036&products_id=5727
My primary concern with this design is technical work (ie. de-butting deer) may be a bit of a challenge.

I am looking for advice on knife blade shapes for this purpose as well as any other sources for blanks with quality steel. Thanks in advance for any help.
 
Welcome.

As for the design you are partial to...nope AFAIC. Too pointy (you dont want pointy with gut piercing to be avoided), the false edge is unneeded and only serves to make the blade too thick (skinners are thin), the handle is very short which will get uncomfortable for extended use, and the short handle puts the weight toward the front of the knife (skinners typically are balanced to the end....they aren't tip-heavy choppers).

Bob Dozier is one of the the most respected makers of serious skinning blades out there. His Master Skinner looks like this

ks1_zpsfvwpmeur.jpg


DK-K21BRV_zpsxtyxikiw.jpg
 
For skinning, the best I've found is an Alaskan ULU.
For general all purpose, a Buck 110 for a folder, and a drop point or spear point fixed blade with a 3.5 to 5 inch blade.
 
Any Hunter/Skinner in the ~4" range should work. Specific styles are very much influenced by the user's preferences. If that "Mountain Man Wolverine Skinner" is something you like, it should work just fine.

But ... for breaking down/boning out larger game like Elk, I would recommend a larger knife with a different blade profile, like the KaBar BK&T BK15 Trailing Point ...
BK15_RecentlyViewed.png

Thicker than the skinner (.188" v .156"), with a longer (5.5" v 3.5") slicing blade that also has a finger choil and jimping that allow the user to choke up for finer work.

Paired with the 'Wolverine' they may provide you better performance than a one-that-does-it-all design.
 
If you like the style of that knife, I think the Hidden Canyon Hunter from Benchmade might suit your liking.

It comes in S30V which should make it through an animal without having to stop and strop. It has jimping on the spine, so that you can ride up on the blade while skinning and still maintain a decent grip. You can get the scales in G10 or Dymondwood.

Me, I'm partial to the Schrade Sharpfinger (the old USA one), but I've used lots of stuff. I've used clip point, drop point, heck even a Green River Skinner. Some would think that the Sharpfinger might be too "pointy", but not for me. It's all about finding a blade shape that works for YOU. I hacked through the breast of a deer once with a Cold Steel Clipmate. The knife did fine, but I wouldn't do that again. I'm all about fixed blade now.

If I had to buy a new knife for this hunting season, I'd get one of Bob Dozier's offerings in D2.

So the design, really, comes down to you. Happy Hunting! (For game and knives, that is)
 
TravisH said:
But ... for breaking down/boning out larger game like Elk, I would recommend a larger knife with a different blade profile, like the KaBar BK&T BK15 Trailing Point ...
BK15_RecentlyViewed.png

Thicker than the skinner (.188" v .156"), with a longer (5.5" v 3.5") slicing blade that also has a finger choil and jimping that allow the user to choke up for finer work.

Paired with the 'Wolverine' they may provide you better performance than a one-that-does-it-all design.
Click to expand...

The BK15 is 5/32in thick, not 3/16in. The BK5 however is a full 3/16in thick.

I'd look at the JAB gamestalker as well. I hear its a great hunting /skinning knife.

Good luck :).
 
Rob Scheppmann is not only a nice guy to deal with, he also makes great hunting knives (and of course knives for other purposes).

Sadly, the knife pics are missing from this thread
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...s-Grizzly-Bear-*GRAPHIC*?highlight=scheppmann

....but I had a smaller knife made by Rob - thread here. Knife works a charm on roe deer etc.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...ann-Hunter-outstanding!!?highlight=scheppmann
I belive my knife is on Rob's website, if you want to see another pic. Either its the same or he made another one with butterscotch handle.


You might contact Rob and ask him about the knife from the above Grizzly thread. It sounds like it might be something like that you are looking for.
 
'60's Schrade-Walden Deerslayer and Sharpfinger in 1095.

Still have my Deerslayer. Hard to beat for larger game. The baton anvil makes it so good for bone and quartering. This knife could probably be in the survival category as well. It's that tough.

I went through several Sharpfinger models. These are smaller and a bit more lithe in filleting, caping, etc. They're very good for EDC too if you want a small fixed blade.

Pretty easy to locate this earlier era of the knives, used and at decent prices, especially the Sharpfingers.

Not sure what today's "Schrade" is like or how good they are.
 
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In the hundreds of animals that I have field dressed, skinned and quartered I have found skinner-style blades to be good at, well, skinning but giving way to other designs for the field dressing, as least some segments of the process. A small knife, kinda pointy, to open the animal and then a skinner works fine and who wouldn't go afield without (at least) two knives. Depending on your preference and practices regarding dealing with the very end of the lower GI, a pointy and slender blade handles the , ah, carving, readily.

Getting it all (more or less) in one knife is not necessarily impossible. Some knives that have served me well in this regard are the CRK Sable (discontinued), Cold Steel Master Hunter (carbon) and Becker BK15. I have used many others, I dressed out and cut up my first elk with a Buck 119 Special. I've dressed out and cut up a bunch of deer (white tail and Mulie) with a Busse Basic #7 and once dressed out a white tail with a SAK because it's what I had with me. That sharp SAK lopped off a portion of my left thumb when I cut the esophagus but it grew back - my thumb, not the esophagus. I probably did more deer with a Buck 110 than any other single knife. Though not the point of your question, I should comment that the BK15 provides much value and has served me very well. I do not like spending a lot of money on hunting knives and losing or loaning/losing a more value priced knife hurts less than the alternatives.

All told, you need to get a knife that makes you smile - and is rewarding to use. While there may be some universal truths to consider in a good hunting knife, only you know what tasks you will be asking the knife to perform, how much weight and size you will tolerate before inconvenience robs your pride of ownership, whether or not patina will bother you and what your sharpening skills, habits and equipment is like. These are all factors to consider and they have led me to what I like anymore. All told, you have to get a knife that makes you smile. You can always buy value user knives, get one made that makes you smile.
 

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Skinner ? A whitetail skinning is more of a pulling off with occasional cutting membrane ! The red deer/elk is a bit larger and a 5" blade is better while a 4" is best for me for a deer . Either way a slight drop point is what I prefer. Always a saw for any bones .Their are nice folders for that. I also use a 5-6" stiff boning knife . My basic knife is the fancy one with premium steel and fine stabilized wood for the handle .The knife should balance nicely on your forefinger .
 
Since I got the new Blackjack 124, I think it may work very well as a skinner and field dresser knife for deer to elk sized animals. It has about a 4" blade and is smaller than it's big brother, the 125. I like a pointy blade for most things even though conventional wisdom is a drop point type design which is just fine for "skinning" but not some other tasks.

The BK-15 was mentioned earlier, I like that knife a lot and find it a very flexible design and sufficiently strong for knife tasks. I don't think it is the ultimate skinner however.

The Buck Vanguard, I believe the 192 is a classic blade shape for hunting. I like the Cabelas Alaskan Guide version in S30V.

I also very much like Bob Dozier's designs for hunting uses. The largest size, the Pro Guides Knife (5" blade) would make a pretty fair all a rounder.
 
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EChoil said:
'60's Schrade-Walden Deerslayer and Sharpfinger in 1095.

Not sure what today's "Schrade" is like or how good they are.
Click to expand...

Not as good as they were back in the day, my friend. I tried a new Sharpfinger... useless.

Deerslayer has a good shape, was a bit large for me. The Sharpfinger is like having a... well, a sharp finger that gets where I want it to go.

Both sweet knives, provided you are getting the vintage in 1095.
 
Consider a longer bladed knife than the one your looking at for skinning, boning and quartering. The Vanguard and Dozier will work. I don't know what your meaning by, 'de-butting'.?
Consider A 4" drop point with belly for skinning and field dressing. A 6"-7" trailing point for boning, quartering and processing. DM
 
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David Martin said:
Consider a longer bladed knife than the one your looking at for skinning, boning and quartering. The Vanguard and Dozier will work. I don't know what your meaning by, 'de-butting'.?
Consider A 4" drop point with belly for skinning and field dressing. A 6"-7" trailing point for boning, quartering and processing. DM
Click to expand...

David has given some good advice. :thumbup:
 
Velitrius said:
Not as good as they were back in the day, my friend. I tried a new Sharpfinger... useless.

Deerslayer has a good shape, was a bit large for me. The Sharpfinger is like having a... well, a sharp finger that gets where I want it to go.

Both sweet knives, provided you are getting the vintage in 1095.
Click to expand...

Yeah, damn shame. I was just posting in another thread about a great '90's knife company that was bought out and the product cheapened. The rationalization was".....so that more people would have the opportunity to own this classic folder..."

Like they're even getting the same knife now.
 
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